Welcome to 'Life in a Hammock', a capture of Gayle's daily 'real time' eBlogs of our travels.
Shorter than our Travel Blog but more literary with somewhat of a different perspective.
September 05 / 06 - Halifax to Athens to Paros (Petres Hotel)
"My My Here We Go Again! My My Paros ... I Did Miss You"
It’s early morning and Paros is just waking up. Despite now becoming one of the more popular islands it still has kept its rural roots. The farm orchestra has begun … I hear chickens clucking and the roosters softly crowing from a distance. And now a few cars. It’s not even 7:00 am yet and already 25 degrees.Paros will never be our favourite island but Petres Hotel is the place to go for rest, relaxation and to press the reset button. We arrived to a very warm welcome from Sotaris and Clea. Sotaris checked us in quickly, and told us Clea would be waiting for us with a welcome drink when we were ready. I love quick checkins then a more leisurely chat after we are settled. It was wonderful catching up on life, they are such warm welcoming people!Now to backtrack. We were half an hour behind schedule, as Norm did a last minute pack and I readied the house for Paul, Erin and Clara’s month long stay. (But first for them will be a 4 day stay at Milford House!) Norm debated … what suitcase to bring? As Norm packed and unpacked several times. Even a backpack was packed. In the end the large suitcase won out … a good choice I think.Finally we headed out to the airport for a little lounge time before heading off. There we enjoyed a cappuccino with Bill and Linda, our travelling compatriots in the Air Canada Lounge. Of course this was only the prelude before our 5+ hours long stay in the fabulous Montreal AC lounge. We started out with a sparkling wine for Linda and me followed by a few delicious margaritas. The lounge was empty for much of the afternoon until about 4:00 pm. The food was varied and delicious. Wonderful! I especially enjoyed a creamy tangy pasta salad and chopped tomato salad. The time went by quickly in the company of good friends. We are so fortunate to all be going to Greece yet again … my 11th time, Norm’s 9th; and Bill and Linda’s 4th time.We had carefully planned this trip, leaving plenty of time for our connection from Athens to Paros … or so we thought. Our 9 hour flight was 2 hours late leaving Montreal which would leave only an hour or so to connect to our Paros flight. The flight itself was not the most comfortable for me as I felt very squished in, no leg room for my particular seat. Then we were late arriving in Athens unfortunately which led to us believing it would take a miracle for us to catch the Paros flight. After breezing through immigration we said goodbye to Bill and Linda as we waited for our luggage. Thank goodness for respected Priority tags. We retrieved our bags and rushed off to Aegean airlines where checking in was super easy and found our departure gate just as people were boarding for the bus to the plane. There was a delay there too so we had 10 minutes to spare before we were whisked off by bus to our awaiting plane. Only a swift 25 minute plane ride and we arrived in Paros to then pick up our rental car. So many things had to go right for us to catch our flight, we were so blessed to have helpful staff and lots of luck to make this happen. We are very grateful!Now here we are in the warm sunshine, endless blue skies and infinite blue seas. We are in Greece! Double grateful!After a longer than expected nap … we missed out on our swim … we headed for a light dinner on the terrace of Petre’s. Norm had a chicken and lemon sauce dish, I had baked broad beans in a light tomato sauce. I was especially pleased with my choice. We shared a Cretan rusk brushetta … Greek tomatoes are oh so good! We chatted with Eva, our server … so quiet, so relaxing, such a peaceful end to a quite stressful travel blip in our plans. May the rest of the trip go seamlessly!
No Photos.
September 06 - Paros (Petres Hotel)
"Paros From a Sloth's Point of View"
How can a relax day be so tiring, lol! It was a 4 nap kinda day! The kind of delicious nap where you fall fast asleep and dream sweet dreams. In between … lots of eating, drinking water and swimming. So perfect for us sloths! Not surprisingly at 1:00 am in the morning I was ready for action and slept in this morning. So the blog is on sloth time.
Breakfast was so delicious as usual but different each day. Highlights for me … a big cup of coffee and freshly squeezed orange juice brought to me by Norm … so appreciated; a spinach cheese roll; a red tomato/pepper/feta egg dish; and lemon pound cake.
What I wish I woke up to! Yesterday’s pre-sunrise. Yesterday … a ‘stolen’ sunset view.
insistence there were no pomegranates I did find a few. I think she may have meant ‘relatively few ‘.
September 07 - Paros (Petres Hotel)
"And the Greek Musicians Played Until Dawn"
Up before, sunrise … just like I like it. The wind is up, and it’s only 20 degrees. Thinking ahead of our ferry to Amorgos … the sea is already looking a bit rough but no white caps yet. I spoke too soon, there are now.
Sleep was at a premium for some of us. There was a wedding going on somewhere close enough to us. The beautiful haunting music wafted in and out of our closed windows, getting louder as the night wore on. I’m sure there was a lot of traditional dancing going on until the wee hours of the morning too. I would guess they finished just after 6;00 am. We wondered if the nice young lady sitting beside us on the Montreal to Athens flight who was attending a wedding in Paros on Saturday was there. What a wedding party that would have been!
We have thoroughly enjoyed our 3 night stop here in Paros … doing pretty much nothing. What a great way to begin our travels! Yesterday like the day before we began our day with a later breakfast … not the last ones but pretty close. Every morning breakfast is somewhat different … all delicious … the coffee very good too! The cook is from Bulgaria, and very serious. Every day I see if I can make her smile. When I told her that I really enjoyed her cooking … I realized she knew no English. She disappeared for a second and brought me a paper takeout bag thinking that is what I wanted. Luckily Eva, our Polish/now Greek server translated. Her smile was full of joy, a compliment clearly she had not expected.
The pool is very busy in the morning but by 2:00 pm it clears and there is hardly anyone. Perfect time for a swim in the beautiful pool! We decided since we had the rental car we should at least go for a drive towards the monastery and find a beach. We easily found a beach, accessible from the road and not too crowded. The water was so warm and beautiful, and the little fish so cute as they swam along with us. We then drove to the port, Naoussa just for a look around. Very busy, parking was at a premium. And that was enough for us so we headed home to Petres for dinner as was our plan.
At first we were the only ones at dinner but another table filled later. Yemista … stuffed vegetarian tomatoes were on the menu! Especially for me!!! So delicious. Norm ate light with a fresh tomato salad and a Greek sausage. We both left very happy!
By this time the nearby Greek music had just kicked up a notch. And as the night wore on the traditional music played and played. A fitting start to our Greek holiday!
September 08 - Paros (Petres) to Amorgos (Panos Gitonia)
"Return to Amorgos"
Waking up to beautiful sunshine and now at 10:00 am 23 degrees. Breezy but not too windy. There’s no view better than the view from Pano Gitonia … while enjoying the first cups of coffee. Heavenly! We are here in Almond Tree for only one night then move to Panorama for 4 nights. The bed is like a Greek maisonette, tucked away up a few stairs. Despite not having room on the sides of the bed, it was a super comfy good sleep. Really nice shaded, protected from strong winds outdoor area. The surrounding almond trees and the little birds that frequent them only add to the traditional ambience. Pano Gitonia is one of my very top favourite places to stay … simple, traditional, killer views, great value for the money.
So yesterday after a big breakfast back at Hotel Petres, it was time to say goodbye to Paros and hello to Amorgos. So down to the port in Naoussa, to catch the ferry. There were so many people waiting in the hot sun for the different ferries. Our ferry was a little late but left very quickly after docking. We had booked business class tickets which hopefully allowed for much more personal space and quietness. Definitely great for personal space but the 2 kids running all over the place at times was not conducive for resting. After the night of hearing all night long ‘wedding music’, ever so softly, a few naps were required, lol. Our boat passed through Iraklia, Schinnousa, Koufounisi, and finally Amorgos. We docked in Katopola and were given an ‘old beater of a car‘ much to our disappointment while others paying a similar rate drove away in new cars of the same size. After complaining we will pick up a new car here in Aegiali.
We met up with Bill and Linda again at Pano Gitonia where they have been staying at 'Room with a View'. Our turn to pick a restaurant … I chose to return to my favourite in another closeby town Lagada.
The restaurant was pretty busy but they set up a table for us in the narrow alleyway. Perfect! I very much enjoyed my meal of oven baked chickpeas, fries and saganaki to share. Norm said the goat dish he chose was both delicious and tender, with more meat and less bone than he normally gets with goat. We struck up a good conversation with our waiter, the 19 year old son of the owner, his mother, Popi. We learned about her starting the restaurant in 2019 without formal restaurant experience. Now that’s a brave but risky move! Of course Covid hit in 2020 but they survived. We first visited Moschoudaki in 2022 and so happy to have returned.
September 10 - Amorgos (Panos Gitonia)
"And What Goes BANG in the Middle of the Night?"
The coolness and freshness of early morning. The seas are calm with sunny skies overhead with a gentle breeze and a temperature of 23 degrees at 8:00 am. Perfect day for Bill and Linda to head out on their journey to Donoussa. Perfect day for Norm and Gayle to take a possible day trip to the other end of the island. We will see how the day unfolds.
Suddenly in the middle of the night the famously strong Amorgian wind blows and our door slams shut with great force. Note to self … prepare for this possibility before heading off to bed. Nothing that a few pillows strategically placed can’t fix!
Back to yesterday. Amorgos is the type of place not to be in a hurry. For some people it is to hike the mountains, visit the monasteries, sail or lay on the beaches. For me there is nothing better than sitting at Pano Gitonia for hours enjoying the sea views, looking out to see Alex the donkey and maybe giving him an apple, and we always look forward to the ‘swim of the day!’! This is honestly one of my favourite places in the world just to be.
We were slow yesterday to get our breakfast. There is no coffeemaker here in Panorama but for a French press and an espresso maker … which turned out to be for us even better! Somehow sipping that coffee could not have been more delicious while enjoying the stellar views of the sea, little white villages and surrounding barren mountains. The sun and the clouds casting imposing shadows as they quickly move along.
I just wonder how the time passes so quickly. When Bill and Linda came back from their day trip they joined us on our terrace for a chat. Then it was time to wander down to the port, get our burned-out headlight replaced in our new car before heading out for a swim. We were in charge of the car rental office while Yiannis went to the garage. We were surprisingly busy, lol … too bad we couldn’t answer the ringing phone too. By this time it was after 5:00 pm, the beach was still quite busy and the cool water still so so delightful. It did feel a little more refreshing than usual.
We headed back to our place for an amazing sunset and then out to dinner, just the two of us. We decided to keep to the plan of going to Theo’s and Pookie’s restaurant in ‘downtown Aegiali’. It was a busy spot but we snagged a good table in the alley way right near the church and a frangipanie tree with its beautiful white blossoms. The saganaki cheese we shared was delicious. The Amorgos salad was good but not quite up to others we have seen. The Amorgos olives were the smallest I have ever seen .. .so cute but tasty! The creamy soft Amorgos cheese so delicious! Theo, Pookie and their daughter Katerina dropped over to our table for a visit. 16 year old Katerina will be starting school on Wednesday, the high school being in Chora. Such a sweet family! We are so lucky to have found Pano Gitonia early on our travels so that we now have returned five times! With plans to once again return, perhaps even for longer!
September 11 - Amorgos (Panos Gitonia)
"Basing in the Aegean Sunshine and the Glow of Amorgos"
The Blue Star Ferry has left the port 45 minutes late …will it do the same tomorrow when we will be on it?
Mixed skies this morning but assurances of a sunny day ahead. 15 degrees at 8:00 am but there is no wind and it certainly does not feel that cool.
Yesterday was an early start for us, out before noon. Picked up our ferry today tickets … and who else was standing in line also attempting to buy tickets was ‘Mr.Photographer’ from Niko’s Taverna. He kept arguing with the young lady selling the tickets that she must be wrong as ‘Niko’ couldn’t possibly have made such a mistake. But they bought their tickets to Naxos and back anyways, business class … but he was not happy, still disbelieving. I chuckled … maybe he drank a little too much, maybe he can’t remember or maybe he was given the wrong info by Niko.
Then it was off to the far end of the island, to the beach Kalotaritissa, a few kms past the shipwreck. Such a gorgeous curvy drive with the towering barren hillsides dipping into the sea. An 83 goat day.
The beach was busier than we have seen it before. But we still managed to score a small spindly tree under which we found comfort in a little shade. The turquoise water was warm and gorgeous, although we wish we had brought our water shoes as the entry into the water is at first quite rocky everywhere. Even I was lured by the caress of the warm sunshine … before I knew it I too had fallen asleep on the beach. Like asleep, totally gone. Feeling refreshed upon awaking I headed back in for another long swim.
Leaving the beach heading home the plan was to stop at Mouros Taverna for dinner. As we are walking through the restaurant area all we see is a bare area where tables once were. Closer to the sea views there was a brightly coloured area that was quite inviting calling our names. Or was it just the availability of a margarita that was luring me in. Such a stunning place to have a drink! We ordered an Amorgos salad to share for dinner as the menu was very limited. So very delicious! Against my usual mode of operation, empathy squeezed my heart for this little hungry kitten who gobbled up the tiny morsels of leftover bread and cheese I shared with it. Little kitty was so hungry and clearly thankful to have a little food in its belly.
The drive home was spectacular as the sun lowered in the sky. We arrived home just as the sun was about to set. Shades of orange skies followed. A beautiful day spent making lasting memories in Amorgos! We joked, maybe 10 days in Amorgos next time.
Leaving the beach heading home the plan was to stop at Mouros Taverna for dinner. As we are walking through the restaurant area all we see is a bare area where tables once were. Closer to the sea views there was a brightly coloured area that was quite inviting calling our names. Or was it just the availability of a margarita that was luring me in. Such a stunning place to have a drink! We ordered an Amorgos salad to share for dinner as the menu was very limited. So very delicious! Against my usual mode of operation, empathy squeezed my heart for this little hungry kitten who gobbled up the tiny morsels of leftover bread and cheese I shared with it. Little kitty was so hungry and clearly thankful to have a little food in its belly.
The drive home was spectacular as the sun lowered in the sky. We arrived home just as the sun was about to set. Shades of orange skies followed. A beautiful day spent making lasting memories in Amorgos! We joked, maybe 10 days in Amorgos next time.
September 13 - Amorgos (Pano Gitonia) to Donoussa (O Kipos)
"Met by our Peeps on the Dock! So Very Nice!"
It’s Saturday morning in sleepy Donoussa … not sure if it was the mostly all night music or the sound of the crashing waves but we slept in to about 9:30 am. It’s almost noon now, and 27 degrees. The wind is blowing southwest. Our host Lonnie says there is good probability of better swimming conditions if we venture to the other end of the island. The theory being that usually our beach is the calm one, the other usually more wild. But since our beach is very rough today, maybe it will be better there.
Sitting out on our terrace. Enjoying a morning cup of coffee and leftover spinach pie we plotted out our next moves. Well sort of in between long relaxing moments. In Donoussa time seems to stand still. I was going to take a walk up to the church as I could hear chanting but then the church bells rang and rang. And the chanting stopped. So I decided to write the blog instead.
We arrived yesterday (Friday) in Donoussa very early in the morning. Our Blue Star ferry was very late picking us up in Amorgos for our 40 minute ferry ride. We arrived an hour and a half late but so wonderful to see Bill and Linda’s smiling happy faces at the dock waiting for us! Lonnie, from O’Kipos Guesthouse met us as well and we agreed to meet up later as our room wasn’t ready. So the Collins gang headed for breakfast seeking shade from the already hot sunshine. Breakfast was delicious … I had a breakfast crepe and cappuccino, and for Norm a tropical fruit drink
We spent the rest of the day catching up on our sleep and enjoying the space outside. We schemed of ways to reduce the amount of sun on our little terrace. We came up with a plan to ask Lonnie about later.
Sometime around 6 ish we heard the church bells ringing and the melodic chanting of the priests at the church nearby. We went up to investigate. By now the church was full as well as the church yard. We sat on the wall to watch the residents, friends and family of all ages, meet, greet and mingle. There would be a huge partaking of a communal feast for all.
Soon Bill and Linda joined us by the wall and decided to check out a nearby restaurant for a bite to eat before the music started in the port. My chickpea croquettes were quite delicious while Norm had calamari. Bill and Linda loved their choices even more I think. The house wine from Santorini was perhaps surprisingly really very delicious! After dinner we headed towards the port where the music would eventually start. The thick crowd of perhaps 500 people was already gathering. So atmospheric with the crashing waves and fishing boats bobbing in the water while waiting for the music. We did get to eventually hear some music and watch a small group of men perform a traditional dance before heading back to our room. It had been an early morning for us and we knew that the real ‘party’ had not even started. Tomorrow another ‘all night’ party will start …maybe we will be more ready for that. Maybe …
September 14 - Donoussa (O Kipos)
"Another Sleepless Night in Donoussa ... I wouldn't have it any other way!"
It’s 21 degrees and just after 8:00 am. It was another sleepless night. The festival music played joyously and loudly throughout the night and early morning hours. And the priests are softly chanting at the church. We arrived back to the party with young people still dancing feverishly. I had fun copying their steps and danced along behind them. Norm encouraged me to join in … and maybe I should have. It was fun anyways but I so wish our peeps were there too! So I danced for all of us.
Yesterday the waves were still pounding the shore at our beach. The southerly winds brings not nay the flies but higher waves. We will hope for calmer waters on Sunday. We decided to take a half hour bus ride to the end of the island. The bus was packed. Luckily Norm had a seat but I sat on the floor of the bus. Hence my now sore hip … i should have taken the kind offer from a much younger Greek woman. She was right … it was a long bumpy ride.
The beach was gorgeous … calm turquoise waters. Bill and Linda were there holding a prime real estate spot for us n the shade! So very kind!!! So very comfortable out of the blazing sun! Not that I would ever complain about sun n Greece, lol!
We paddled around, swam, talked and pressed repeat. Bill and Linda had gone up to the restaurant earlier and had scored a small table for four despite the crowds. The beach taverna was overwhelmed and underserved. Eventually we got some food but it was a process. Another Greek salad and fries for me. This is getting to be a habit! We caught the 6:30 bus and this time both Norm and I got a seat. Donoussa’s coastline and barren mountain scenery is so very dramatic! Gorgeous! Bill and Linda’s place was close to the bus stop and we were fortunate enough to catch sunset at their place with distant views of the surrounding islands. Such a different feel to their island retreat. Ours ... like an old Greek cottage, in town but 2 minutes from the beach, sheltered by a large garden with trees and no views to the water .. .to theirs ... modern, a windswept balcony with fantastic sunset and sea views to the surrounding islands. Two worlds apart. Luckily we both love our choices!
Music was supposed to start at 10:00 pm at the port in a different location this time.
September 15 - Donoussa (O Kipos)
"Bliss in the Sun"
Finally a ‘sleep filled’ night in Donoussa! But oh how I miss the music! It’s so quiet, only the sound of waves gently crashing on the beach. Not even the priests are chanting this morning. It was 18 degrees at 8:30 am with a high of 26 expected today, and NW winds. That means smooth waters likely on ‘our’ beach.
Bill and Linda left for Koufonisia on the Skopoletis this morning. Smooth sailing for them today I would think. We waved goodbye but I doubt they saw us.
After our early morning ‘dance party’ yesterday we settled back into the quiet morning routine. Coffee enjoyed on our little terrace, and a few pastries Norm had picked up earlier. The wind had settled and it seemed very calm. But from the protection of our garden and its large trees we seem cocooned from the weather particularly any wind.
Today would be a relax day. Many people were leaving the island today, the festival being over. Some probably practically even left the dance floor for the ferry, lol!
We joined Bill and Linda on our beach … once again they got there earlier than us and found a shady spot. The turquoise water was so warm and so refreshing. The waves were gentle and beach access so easy for us. We are only a 2 minutes walk away. Since we really hadn’t slept for 2 nights a short nap was definitely a priority.
Before we knew it it was time for dinner. Luckily we had Lonnie make a reservation for us, perhaps surprisingly it got very busy! We arrived there just before sunset … and wow what a view! The stuffed tomatoes I had ordered were very delicious. Norm enjoyed his portion of octopus. Bill was disappointed there wasn’t moussaka available but it seemed like they too enjoyed their meal in the end.
Another relaxing day spent on cute little Donoussa where life seems to stand still.
September 17 - Donoussa (O Kipos)
"You Heart Stealer You"
Donoussa, Donoussa … you stole a piece of my heart and now I have to leave you. It’s moving day and we are up early. A calm day it seems which is good as we are on a smaller boat, the Skopelitis. The trip from Donoussa to Koufounisi will only take about an hour. We will look forward to getting together once again with Bill and Linda.
There were other activities we could have done in Donoussa, like a boat trip to Seal Cave or a boat taxi to Livadi Beach, or attend the Festival of Agia Sophea held at the spring in Mersini all day on Tuesday instead of all night. But instead we decided to just be … for me that included a couple of swims at our beach, 2 minutes away and a homemade breakfast thanks to Norm. While at the beach I struck up a conversation with Ute, another guest at Kipos. They have come to Donoussa twice a year from Germany for 4 to 6 weeks at a time. They have watched the island get busier and busier … yet still it is a place of relative solitude comparatively to other islands.
Dinner was back to Avli. It did not disappoint. Once again the house wine from Santorini was superb as was my baked feta, tomato and eggplant dish. We also shared fava with sun dried tomato and an order of interesting tasty homemade breads.
What I especially love about Donoussa is its compactness. Staying in the town of Stavros … 2 minutes to the beach, groceries and bakery, and 5 to 10 minutes walk away to various good restaurants. The beach so sandy and the water so pretty and clean. I loved our little cottage in the mature garden, seemingly impervious to the wind.
On the right - Norm and the full moon.
And below - baked feta and excellent Santorini wine.
September 18 - Donoussa (O Kipos) to Koufonisi (Pambelos Lodge)
"So Happy to be Back for the 5th Time"
Good Morning Koufonisi! It’s now Thursday and what a beautiful morning it is! It’s 21 degrees and only 8:00 am … a high of 24 is expected, moderate north winds at 20+ kph. Breezy.
It feels like old country Greece at Pambelos, not the youth focussed beach vibe of the island. The olive trees, fresh herbs and gardens bursting with blooming bougainvillea, pomegranates and ripening tomatoes add a farm ‘down home’ ambience. We love sitting on our deck totally oblivious to the increasing tourism. All around us there is change as more buildings are going up to accommodate the tourists.
Yet at Pambelos all is pretty much the same except for Georgios front garden which is looking better than ever. The olive tree in front of our cottage is growing larger and broader now partially blocking our view … but also blocking construction.
From our terrace we watch the sailboats go by, the ferries, the taxi boats and the tour boats. Koufonisi retains it natural beauty and affinity to the sea. If I was Poseidon this would be my home!
Yesterday, we had said our goodbye to Donoussa. It was thankfully a smooth sailing on the Skopoletis and in an hour there we were at the dock of Koufounisi. Bill and Linda were there to warmly welcome us to the island! And Georgio was there to pick us up!
Back at Pambelos we enjoyed a full breakfast choosing whatever was on the menu in whatever quantity! We left very full!
Eventually I wandered down to the beach for a swimc…calone. Unfortunately Norm was not able to join me … his knees just too sore to make it up and down the hill. The water at Fanos Beach was gorgeous and I stayed about an hour before heading up the hill to Pambelos.
Dinner was about a 15 minute walk away at Mixalios Grill House, a farm to table type restaurant. A very tough physical challenge for Norm getting there. Definitely a taxi back. Mixalios’ specialty …. meat, meat, meat and cheese. Huge portions! I chose a mixed vegetable pie and tomato balls … not really to my taste unfortunately. I should have had a salad with the creamy house cheese … it would have been way too big but it sure looked delicious as it passed by to someone else’s table!
It was a long day and despite the beautiful moonlit night, I headed straight to bed.
September 19 - Koufonisi (Pambelos Lodge)
"So Happy to be Back for the 5th Time"
It’s Friday morning, about 8:00 am and it’s a comfortable 21 degrees, some clouds but nothing too serious. Should be about 24 with winds similar to yesterday blowing from the north. All is so quiet at this time in the morning. Unlike other years I’m not up at the crack of dawn, but enjoying a few extra winks of sleep.
I headed down to breakfast earlier for a coffee yesterday and struck up a conversation with a British couple, Tony and Sharon. Like me Sharon loves Greece, and has visited more islands than our 35 … she now is at 40! But who’s counting! Before too long Norm, Bill and Linda arrived … it was about noon before we left.
We arranged with Georgio to drive us to the beach just down the road. That way Norm would not have to endure a return trip with his sore knees. The warm turquoise water beckoned me in twice before it was time to leave a few hours later. Meanwhile Bill and Linda meandered down for a beer and a swim. By this time Norm was fast asleep on our Greek beach blanket purchased last year in Lefkada. The beach is definitely busier than ever before but not a problem. Mostly younger people on vacation it seemed.
We chose the Italian restaurant in town for dinner, Lavada e Rosmarino Trattoria. The buffalo mozzarella pizza I ordered was superb. The pizza was a reasonable size but I could eat only 3/4 of it. There were a few glitches like the 2 E charge for bread for each person for the bread basket lying innocently on the table. That was a little annoying but should have been somewhat predictable as we have to pay for bread every time in Greece. Then there was the bill that when it came included all of us despite our clear instructions earlier. That was annoying for sure. But in saying all that I definitely would go back The food was good!
Mohammad our taxi driver made the ‘impossible for Norm walk back from town’ very easy. Having a taxi service has meant going to Koufonisi at least possible! We are so grateful!
Good Morning Koufonisi.
Tony and Sharon … such nice guests stay at Pambelos.
September 20 - Koufonisi (Pambelos Lodge)
"A Moonlit Walk to Soothe the Soul"
Good morning Koufonisi, I say, as I wake up to little birds singing and warm sunshine yet again! The wind is up a bit I would say too. 20 degrees at 8:00 am with a north wind of about 20 mph.
Yesterday, Norm stayed back in our cottage while I set off to walk and swim. While I did not walk all the way to Pori Beach I did walk a good part of the way. I was surprised by the number of people, both dressed and in various stages of undress, on the next beach over from Fanos Beach … called Italida. Probably 80 to 100 people, far more than ever before as to my memory. The wave action was up just a bit at Fanos Beach but the water was both warm and very inviting! A two swim day!
Norm was not at his best still so when it came time for dinner we chose to go to Finnikas - the go to rustic beach bar. We learned that with the help of Norm’s knee braces going downhill to Finnikas was possible …even though we had considered calling a taxi. Bill and Linda went into town for dinner or so we thought. On the menu was a dish that appealed to Norm and his queasy stomach … plain spaghetti, no sauce. I had Greek salad and fries while the full moon played hide and seek among the clouds. Just as we were finishing up, in walks Bill and Linda their plans thrown off course by perhaps the wind … their taxi boat did not show up.
A beautiful walk home with the full moon just over our shoulders.
September 21, 2024 - Koufonisi (Pambelos Lodge)
"One Beach Day Blends into the Next"
Today was an off day. I slept in until 9:00 am. The weather today is similar to yesterday. Quite breezy when going down to breakfast. Today Bill and Linda head out for Naxos; followed by us tomorrow then a ferry change from Naxos to Ios then a very short in time and distance ferry to Sikonos. Hope we make it! But that’s a future story yet to be told, yet to unfold.
Breakfast was as slow, delicious, and relaxing as usual. We all wondered what Bill and Linda’s room bill would be for their 6 nights. For them it was 1,000 Euros … for us for 5 nights we will have to see. Much better than the $200 Euros a night quoted.
Yesterday, once again, it was all about the swim. Norm put his knee braces on and down the hill we went to Fanos Beach. About 15 minutes going slowly, slowly, slowly….siga, siga! The waves were up a bit, but the water was warm and inviting. Such a nice sandy beach, impossibly turquoise blue water with sights of the occasional little silver sided fishes swimming by.
For supper we called Mohammad, the one and only taxi driver, to take us into ‘downtown koufonisi’. We strolled the streets looking for changes and subjects to photo. Sadly most of the older people are likely now gone. There is a youthful vibrancy in the air, a reflection of Koufonisi’s more recent popularity.
For dinner we chose Georgio’s brother’s place … Armira Kai Piotto. It was not very busy when we arrived about 7:00 pm but by 8:00 pm the restaurant filled, even a lineup to get in by the time we left. A very interesting huge menu to decipher. What to have, what to have. Norm and I decided on Cheese Bites from Naxos, Octopus for Norm and Baked Eggplant for me. We were pleased with our choices. Bill and Linda had a hard time to even finish their meal of 4 dips plus a veal/orzo rice dish to share. They seem to always finish whatever they order except for this time. We all decided a much better strategy is to order the wine and appetizers first, followed later by ordering the main courses. Otherwise everything comes at once! All the food arriving at once, crammed together on a small table … this can be a problem, balancing all the plates. We probably left some scraps behind for the roaming kitties.
Another taxi ride 7 euro plus tip for 4 back to Pambelos. With Norm’s sore knees and limited walking ability ... what would we do without Mohammad!
Downtown Koufonisi ... still an easy going beach vibe, yet a little more ritzy dressed folks than ever before. Traditions like the church still remain strong. We can only imagine the throngs of sun worshipping people here in August, filling the restaurants spilling onto the street.
September 23, 2024 - Koufonisi (Pambelos Lodge) to Sikinos (Zetine Suites)
"Tick Tock goes the Koufonisi Clock"
Tick tock, tick tock goes the Koufonisi clock … don’t want to miss that early 6:45 am ferry! So, at 5:30 am, up we get. We are not alone as several other guests are also catching the ferry. With a little sadness we leave, hoping to return someday soon enough … before things change once again.
Our Blue Star Ferry took us to Naxos in calm seas. I was able to get a bit of sleep in the ‘Business Class’ and a spinach pie to eat for breakfast. Norm was very busy counting cash as you can see … no sleep for him! In two hours we arrived in Naxos Port where Norm decided he would check out a camera shop for a possible solution to his broken camera. Unfortunately despite his best efforts the shop did not open at all and he returned to the port area disappointed but glad he tried.
Then it was onto a very crowded LATE Sea Jet vessel where it was almost impossible to find the numbered seats. Most everyone coming from Mykonos was going to Santorini. Would we make our super tight connection to Sikinos we wondered? We were doubtful but remained hopeful.
In 40 minutes we arrived in Ios … and through the ferry ‘drawbridge’ we could see our boat finishing up loading cargo and the last few people. We practically ran there when it was safe. As it turned out we had 6 minutes to spare and the rickety old but seaworthy Maestros Santorini left exactly on time. It bobbed around on water making the Skopelitis look like a luxury liner, lol. Ok that’s a big exaggeration but you get the picture! In 30 minutes we were in Sikinos met by both Fotis, the owner of Zetine Suites, and the car rental company. We enjoyed a coffee at the port with two Swiss guests while we waited for our room to be ready. And the cutest large French sheepdog/Teddy Bear, a Briand, with gold barrettes to hold back her long ‘bangs’.
So yesterday (Sunday) back in Koufonisi it was time to say goodbye to Bill and Linda as they were headed for Naxos in early afternoon. Of course we had to walk down to Fanos Beach for one last swim. The waves were just as high or higher than the day before. We wondered what it would be like for ‘our peeps’ on the ferry!
For dinner we debated where to go but decided to return to the Italian restaurant for pizza once again. But this time no bread! Well our plans eventually dissolved when Mohammad went AWOL. Despite multiple calls and text messages we could not contact him. Where was Mohammad? If I ever write a mystery novel he will be a character in my book, lol.
But being ever resourceful, as we are, we ordered a pizza for delivery. And it was ‘free’ delivery! So there we sat with our two ‘came with the pizza’ cats and munched on pizza, retsina and water. The pizzas tasted pretty good compared to not having supper at all. The kitties weren’t disappointed either. An early tuck in time and a before dawn wake up call was ahead.
The Blue Star arrival on Monday morning for us. Norm keeping our budget on track.
The Briand Dog. Our Zetine Suite … how sweet it is in Sikinos!
September 24, 2024 - Sikinos (Zetine Suites)
"Sublime Secretive Sikinos Flying Under the Cycladic Radar"
The whispy gauze-like clouds that are draping over the Sikinos sunshine at the moment will likely soon lift. It’s 22 degrees but feels cooler than that at 8:00 am. A breeze cools the air on this Tuesday morning. A bright hot sunshiny day is likely ahead. Just the kind of day we come to Greece for.
Sikinos seems to be quite the quiet island at least at this time of year. Travelled by a somewhat older crowd, definitely not a first timers island likely. Although we do have a couple of guests from Switzerland here that for one of them it is her first time. But I would imagine this not to be the usual. Sikinos is a quiet beauty with shockingly beautiful vistas to the sea. Here in our apartment we have a ‘birds eye’ view of the sleepy port and incoming boat traffic.
Yesterday (Monday) after unpacking and relaxing we decided that a swim and an early dinner would be ‘in the cards’ for us. So off we went in the car to Agios Georgios. The roads twist and wind around the mountainsides making a short drive feel longer. The beach was lovely, quiet and calm. But having had little to eat the lure of the adjacent taverna proved to be more attractive. Service was slow but who goes to Sikinos for anything but. We sipped on a surprisingly delicious Sikinos wine while we waited. Suddenly our table filled all at once with our order, just like magic. There was Greek salad with local cheese, tzatziki, bread, and octopus on tonight’s menu choices. Portions that were at least doable for me and not daunting. Looking out on the beautiful turquoise water views while enjoying our dinner couldn’t have been more perfect. Well, maybe a bigger portion of octopus … the best yet he said … for Norm that would have been sublime.
A short drive followed to chase the sun before returning home to the Zetine Suites and the twinkling lights of the Port! How lucky are we all to ‘live’ Greece year after year…that is never lost on me!
September 24, 2024 - Sikinos (Zetine Suites)
"Sikinos ... we love you! Spectacular sunset, my 'shining knight' follows"
This is probably the latest I would want to come to Sikinos … there doesn’t seem to be a lot of tourists around … yet our place is full. We love it here enjoying the gentle fresh breezes and stunning views. We can see Chora from our balcony and the surrounding hillsides as well. I am enjoying sitting on a portable beanbag chair seeking any available shade on our afternoon sunny terrace.
About 3 o’clock or so, yesterday, we decided to go for a swim at the port beach. One of the nicest, sandiest, and tranquil port beaches in our experience. Hardly a soul around. Then back to Zetine for a shower and a quick turn around for us as we were headed for sunset at the one and only winery, a short drive away. We arrived in plenty of time to grab a good seat. But the joke was on us … only one other couple from Poland was there. Lots of seats were available. The evening before we could see from a distance many tables were full. We chose to share a ‘flight of wine’ consisting of 4 different wines and a small delicious charcuterie plate. All the wines were good but I still prefer the white. Norm almost bought a dessert sweet wine as he quite enjoyed it. But we didn’t.
Sunset at the winery was very beautiful, with views extending to surrounding islands like Folengandros, Kimolos and Milos (we think). By now the Polish couple had left and the sunset view was now all ours!
We headed to Chora for dinner. Through the narrow winding streets, with lots of roaming kitties. I worry about them as life is about to get much tougher with less available food. We passed by an open church along the way … the smell of incense permeated the air while the ornate gold ornamentation glistened and the antique paintings and artifacts crowded the room.
Before too long Norm found the restaurant we were looking for ‘To Steki’. A fairly busy spot by the end of the evening. A very traditional Greek taverna soon to be closing for the season. I guess that’s why there was no wine! Yes … NO wine. Well that was until we met Fotis, the man that runs Zetine Suites, who was just passing by. He said, “this was impossible” …and proceeded to procure two glasses of homemade wine. Only in Greece!!! So very kind! But the wine … hmmm … barely quaffable.
Home to Zetine where we enjoyed a wonderful rest of the evening watching the twinkling lights of the port area. That is until a large bright orange bug sent me inside to safety, lol … while my brave knight guarded the door with his life but promptly fell fast asleep on the comfy cushions.
September 25, 2024 - Sikinos (Zetine Suites)
"Sikinos Beach Trio, Finally a few rocks to add to the collection"
Yesterday was a three beach day with a swim at each one, another visit to Chora and lastly dinner at the port. Each beach was delightfully individual with only a few people. Our first swim was at the soft golden sand beach at the port after we obtained our ferry tickets for Folegandros. The next swim involved a drive down a dirt road to Dialiskari Beach, tucked into a cove backed by large molded rock formations. This beach was pebbly to rocky but still doable without water shoes. Umbrellas provided some shade from the blazing sun.
We squeezed in a visit to Chora before heading to the third beach. We thought maybe we might find a bakery there. We did but it was not open. So we walked about the empty winding streets and before too long we heard “Yassas, Norm and Gayle”. A moment of panic … we did not immediately recognize the young couple! Don’t you hate that when that invariably happens? It was the Polish couple from the winery! Unfortunately we couldn’t join them for a glass of wine as the cafe they were at had just closed!
It was on to the next beach where we planned to eat dinner like we did 2 days ago. Agios Georgios had tempted us to come back and enjoy another swim. While we didn’t score dinner we were lucky enough ‘to collect a few rocks’! A wonderful swim!
Dinner was going to have to be back to Chora at an old style Greek taverna at the port. I was skeptical … the menu was limited the waiter had told us previously. Perhaps surprisingly our meal proved delicious and, of course, typical. Watching the children playing by the dock, the bobbing fishing boats and the comings and goings of the locals, only added to the atmosphere. Back up to Zetine and the shower of stars that awaited.
September 26, 2024 - Folegandros (Provalma)
"Morning Fire on Folegandros"
Yesterday we arrived in Folegandros by the large Zante boat, a smooth crossing at about 10:30 am or so. Our rental car was there for us, easy-peasy. A very few minutes later we were scaling the mountainous roads with our car. Stellar views along the way. We arrived at Provalma and were warmly greeted by Yiannis. We chatted while waiting for our room to be ready. Such a beautiful, bright, airy property with spectacular views of each side of the island. Maybe I will come to love Folegandros after all.
Bill and Linda were arriving late afternoon by ferry from Naxos. So back to the port we went for a quick meet and greet. They headed off to their apartment in Chora to get settled in while we drove back to our piece of heaven … eventually. But not without a mini tour of our surrounding community, Ano Meria. We were quite astonished at the number of restaurants that existed … though certainly some have closed now for the season. We decided on the family environment of Irini’s. Our waitress, the daughter, was lovely and spoke good English. Mama was in the kitchen cooking. Our waitress’ children were playing on the floor of the tiny restaurant … the little 7 year old girl carefully looking after her baby brother while Mom was working. Mom had to be attentive too as the gate opened directly out onto a road and the baby was just a fearless toddler. So in between orders she would shout out to the kids. A very family environment … in all ways. I decided on stuffed tomatoes while Norm had the homemade pasta … matsata, and stewed lamb.
It’s so very peaceful and relaxing here. The sun, the sea, the mountains, the island vistas … then the little birds flitting around the shrubbery, little lizards lazing on the warm patio, the occasional bee looking for nectar ... like a vacation lullaby. Soon I was fast asleep.
Right: Bill and Linda arrive at the Port.
Below: Arrival at Provalma.
More donkeys than ever before in a half hour drive on Folengandros.
September 27, 2024 - Folegandros (Provalma)
"Folegandros ... The Temptations Morning Song but Not For Long"
Breakfast, here at Provalma, is however you pre-order it … choices listed on a sheet. We love to enjoy a coffee first, followed by breakfast an hour or so later. It’s a wonderful way to start the morning. The spinach phyllo rolls are especially delicious as is the orange cake with its ribbon of chocolate. Louis, originally from the Phillipines but now lives in Athens (and here), brings us our breakfast in a large picnic basket. Something to look forward to every morning … like a gift … on your doorstep.
Yesterday we enjoyed the morning sun on our terrace and the coolness of shade at mid-day. We have one of the smallest terraces, but our unit Geronimos works well for us. About 3:00 pm we headed to the nearby beach Agali, down a good but steep winding road. The water was the warmest yet on our trip and it was absolutely wonderful. The kind of sea you want to swim and swim. We watched the boat taxi take others to a nearby beach which we had walked to on a past trip. Back then it was definitely a beach to collect a rock or two in.
We chatted with a fellow Dalmatian owner, he a Greek American and his Spanish born wife now living in Luxembourg, about the health challenges of Dalmatian dogs and bladder stones. Their dog having been recently diagnosed. Something we know a little about as Moondance, our ‘dally’ dog had crysals and stones from an early age. Hopefully we gave them hope … Moondance lived a long life … for 14 and one half years.
Back up to Provalma and soon off for sunset near the end of the island. We pulled over to the side of the road just at the perfect spot. But when it was time to leave the car sputtered and spat but wouldn’t start. Luckily for us two young Swiss tourists, also enjoying the sunset asked if we needed any help. With their help we contacted the car rental agency. It was now dark and our 4 way flashers no longer worked. Luckily very little car traffic. We passed the time chatting with our new Swiss friends who didn’t seem to be in any hurry. We invited them to dinner but they already had made other plans. In a Greek 20 minutes the car rental agency came and boosted our car battery. Luckily it started and away we went, eventually going to dinner at Sinadisi. Another restaurant closing this weekend so the menu was limited. Once again Norm had the traditional pasta, mastala with a side order of meatballs. The wind was now up and whipping around the tables chilling the evening air. As is per usual this trip, we ran into a few people we had previously met, the Briand dog from Sikinos and the two guys from the church sunset view in Folegandros.
The car started up again wth no problem and we drove through Ano Meria past a busy restaurant where the band was playing Greek music and passed Irini’s, our little ‘hole in the wall’ general store/restaurant.
We were grateful to be home, a little troubled by the battery light that was still on in the car.
Dinner.
September 28, 2024 - Folegandros (Provalma)
"Folegandros ... Wind, Waves and Fizzle"
Yesterday morning started with a pot of coffee at 8:15 am out on the terrace. Louis zipped around with his high energy and spread around the morning magic … the delicious breakfast basket delivered to our door.
The wind was starting to build but still very pleasant to sit out. A refreshing dip in the pool followed. The views from Provalma are mesmerizing and never get old. Eventually we step out of our cocoon and head to Agali Beach for a swim. The waves were uncomfortably high for me but I couldn’t resist the water … so very warm! Few braved the waves … perhaps I was foolish to be one of them, but in I went.
Back up to Provalma for a quick shower then out to buy ferry tickets and meet up for dinner with Bill and Linda. It was their last night in Folegandros so we headed to one of their favourite restaurants, Arixe, in the square in Chora for dinner. The square must be one of the most beautiful in all of Greece. The green tables tucked under a wide spreading plane tree started to fill later but since we were early we had our choice of seating. Bill and Linda quickly ordered and received their wine … while I waited and waited. I had been looking forward to a glass of wine before my dinner … not with my dinner. But that was not to be. The Briam (or Vegetable Medley as they called it) was not really to my total liking … as per usual. I rarely have that dish without it being overcooked. The fellow who ushered us to the table says he is also the cook. This must mean much of his food is prepared ahead of time. Typical in many Greek kitchens. Perhaps it is more of a lunchtime dish for me, that way perhaps I would prefer it … more freshly made. Luckily everyone else enjoyed their meal. Sometimes it is better to focus on the experience rather than the meal. It was fun to swap stories of the day’s events and enjoy the ambience.
I had hoped to sit outside underneath the canopy of the bright shining stars and perhaps enjoy a glass of Prosecco. But the sky was disappointingly dark with only a slight twinkle from the stars and with the wind whistling around our terrace, it wasn’t long before it sent me scurrying back into the shelter of our room. Maybe tomorrow night!
September 29, 2024 - Folegandros (Provalma)
"Folegandros ... The Land of the Rising Sun"
Yesterday we absorbed the lazy feel of the countryside all day until it was time to visit the ‘big city’ … Chora. At our place we lounged like lizards and swam in the pool … super relaxing. Not to forget our constant gazing out to the islands in the distance, guessing which one was which! At least I was guessing … one of us knew.
About 5:30 pm we drove into Chora and parked the car in one of the car lots. After a short walk soon we were under the tree canopied square of Chora. Such an atmospheric place! Through the winding alleyways, dark tunnels and old Castro's white buildings we went before happening on a church with a wonderful sunset view. A great place to stop and watch the sun as it lowered into the sky, and became a blaze of colour.
We agreed to meet Bill and Linda at Nickolas’s Taverna. Perfect for me as there was vegetarian moussaka available! While the wine wasn’t really to our liking the moussaka was delicious.
After dinner we walked up to Bill and Linda’s apartment to see their place and enjoy the view of twinkling lights. Linda accompanied us on our walk back and with a hug we said goodnight. Only a few kilometers away Ano Meria seems like another world. The stars couldn’t have been brighter!
We stopped off by a church not to pray but to watch the sunset.
September 30, 2024 - Folegandros (Provalma) to Sifnos (Neridies)
"Folegandros to Sifnos ... The Honey Bee Cafe Conundrum"
Yesterday was a breezy cooler day in Folegandros. Frosty white caps in our swimming pool! Brrrr!
We decided to head down to our usual beach anyways, not knowing if it would be swimmable. Perhaps we should have scouted out a few more beaches but Agali was so nice and close, and only a few minutes by car. The beach was quite quiet with fewer people and much more manageable small waves than yesterday. It was obvious the sea had been ‘angry’… bits of seaweed churned in the water making the once clear waters, murky. The water had also cooled off. But it still was lovely of course.
The plan was to enjoy our bottle of Prosecco sitting outside … but it was too cold and windy. And honestly we were as chillled as a bottle of white wine kept in the fridge. And somehow having it inside just wasn’t going to work, not the ambience we were looking for. So once again we will haul it to another island. I dragged out the off- season, heavy-duty comforter … still it was some time before we warmed up. Soon it was time to go for dinner anyways.
But first we visited the local honey shop that Yiannis owned, someone who we had met on a previous trip in 2010. He once owned a restaurant in Chora where we had dined back then … and memorably the power went out as he took our order. With the help of a generator but mostly in the dark he was able to cobble together our meal. I don’t remember what we ate but I certainly do remember him, the dark candlelit ambience and all the marauding cats! Norm asked him to go on our travel blog website. Of course he had no idea what was going on. He was a little nervous it seemed … he asked if we were French or part of the European Bee Association. Strange questions! We assured him we were not and were ‘friendly’. I could see his hands shake a little then relax. Soon we were reminiscing as best we could … language being a barrier. He smiled and laughed when he saw his photos back then. No doubt lots has happened in his life since then. But he still has his flowing shoulder length hair. Luckily he had a few minutes to spare as his shop was buzzing from local late-day coffee partakers, and a few stopping by for take-out desserts. Earlier in the week we had take-out desserts too bought … an Orange Pie for Norm and a Lemon pie torte for me. Both were very good and, not surprisingly, very sweet … too sweet.
For dinner we went back to Irini’s. This time a helper was manning the kitchen, Grandma Irini was looking after the 15 month old baby, and Grand Daughter, Irini worked the tables. We shared a saganaki cheese and my Greek salad while Norm enjoyed his Matsata pasta and tender lamb pieces. Of course, like usual I couldn’t finish my salad. Irini seemed disappointed but she made the suggestion of ordering a half portion. Is that really possible? She assured me it was. Good idea! I think I will try that!
Irini’s really isn’t the type of place to linger, certainly not the place for a romantic dinner yet it draws you in and embraces you like a warm hug. A place to pick up a few random groceries perhaps … but no ‘tapas’ to be found. A place to find some sponges or cleaning supplies. A place to find family photos and a family history that goes way back. Irini’s is a place to just find fun in enjoying the family atmosphere and joyful family chaos that undoubtedly unfolds.
The family plus the brother.
Irini's
Saganaki. A portion of the Greek Salad. Matsata and lamb.
Left, a church.
Below - sunset.
October 01, 2024 - Folegandros (Provalma) to Sifnos (Neridies)
"From Folegandros to Sifnos ... and our return to One o fthe Most Beautiful and Romantic Restauarants int he World according to me * see story"
It’s hard to believe it’s October 2 and yet here in Greece it’s still summer. This morning the sky is infinitely blue. It’s 21 degrees right now, barely any wind here at the moment, with the promise of sunshine the whole day long. Looking out on the multitude of sailboats moored I bet there a few sailors who may wish for more wind.
Here we are now in the beautiful Niriedes Hotel in Platis Gialis where we have stayed before in 2010. As per plan, we will switch rooms to an even nicer room today. Surprisingly perhaps, the hotel is fully booked in October excepting the odd day here and there. Next door there is a large deep excavation site where a new wing will be added to the hotel. It was so nice to meet Thanos’ wife, Anathe, and their little toy poodle, Roxy. Last time with their children being much younger, Anathe was in Athens with them. We remember touchingly Thanos’ difficulty with the temporary family separation as he missed them greatly.
There was no question where we were going to eat dinner last night … at one of the most romantic restaurants in the world. A Greek taverna by the sea, waves gently lapping the shoreline, small tables underneath overhanging tamarisk trees with a view to the brightly lit white church on a point of land nearby. We watched little songbirds try to unsuccessfully snatch flitting moths attracted by the light. All was just as good as we remembered. Even the house wine at 4 euros for 1/4 liter. I had a Sifnos specialty … beans cooked in the oven. So very delicious … I ate it all!
The boat ride on the Zante ferry line to Sifnos from Folengandros was smooth. At first we sat outside on deck chairs … which was our category. The chairs were like lawn chairs, reasonably comfortable for what they were … but basically I got smoked out. Too many smokers. So I sought shelter inside and scored a section of seating similar to Blue Star Business Class. No one checked our tickets. In no time I was asleep, my lungs now very grateful. The ferry stopped along the way at Kimilos, and Milos where the youthful multitudes were dropped off.
We had a bit of a walk to the car rental agency upon arrival at the ferry terminal in Sifnos. They had earlier apologized that they would not be able to meet us closer to the ferry due to port authority restrictions. Not the smoothest check in system but in not too long we were on our way. And after a 20 minute car ride and many steps later we were greeted by Thanos and his wife Anathe. Home sweet home for the next 4 nights!
* so for the story … I speak to the waiter as I am being seated and say something like ... ”It’s so nice to be back to one of the most romantic restaurants in the world”. He says, “Romance, who has time for that” with clearly a sneer. I said, “Aren’t all Greek men romantic?” We laughed, he said “No”. I said underneath my breath to Norm, “My mistake, that is Italian men, lol”. Well as it turns out one of the other restaurant patrons overheard this and mentioned it to the waitress … she said he doesn’t have a girlfriend, that’s the problem! Yes maybe that is the problem, lol!
There was no question where we were going to eat dinner last night … at one of the most romantic restaurants in the world. A Greek taverna by the sea, waves gently lapping the shoreline, small tables underneath overhanging tamarisk trees with a view to the brightly lit white church on a point of land nearby. We watched little songbirds try to unsuccessfully snatch flitting moths attracted by the light. All was just as good as we remembered. Even the house wine at 4 euros for 1/4 liter. I had a Sifnos specialty … beans cooked in the oven. So very delicious … I ate it all!
The boat ride on the Zante ferry line to Sifnos from Folengandros was smooth. At first we sat outside on deck chairs … which was our category. The chairs were like lawn chairs, reasonably comfortable for what they were … but basically I got smoked out. Too many smokers. So I sought shelter inside and scored a section of seating similar to Blue Star Business Class. No one checked our tickets. In no time I was asleep, my lungs now very grateful. The ferry stopped along the way at Kimilos, and Milos where the youthful multitudes were dropped off.
We had a bit of a walk to the car rental agency upon arrival at the ferry terminal in Sifnos. They had earlier apologized that they would not be able to meet us closer to the ferry due to port authority restrictions. Not the smoothest check in system but in not too long we were on our way. And after a 20 minute car ride and many steps later we were greeted by Thanos and his wife Anathe. Home sweet home for the next 4 nights!
* so for the story … I speak to the waiter as I am being seated and say something like ... ”It’s so nice to be back to one of the most romantic restaurants in the world”. He says, “Romance, who has time for that” with clearly a sneer. I said, “Aren’t all Greek men romantic?” We laughed, he said “No”. I said underneath my breath to Norm, “My mistake, that is Italian men, lol”. Well as it turns out one of the other restaurant patrons overheard this and mentioned it to the waitress … she said he doesn’t have a girlfriend, that’s the problem! Yes maybe that is the problem, lol!
October 02, 2024 - Sifnos (Neridies)
"Sifnos ... a Timeless Beauty with Seemingly Endlessly Blue Sea"
The evening air was so lovely and cool, we opened up our windows for a beautiful fresh air sleep. That was until the raucous sailors in the yachts below us partied to the wee hours of the morning. I bet I feel better than they do this morning, lol.
We woke up to clear skies, infinite blue sea, and a view of the crescent shaped sandy beach curving around the bay. The plan today will be a road trip to the north end of the island, a swim somewhere, a pottery stop, a late, late lunch and an early return to enjoy our Prosecco on our terrace. That’s the plan, we will see how it goes!
But first the never ending breakfast! I wonder if anyone ever eats all the bread and pastries provided? Roxy the toy poodle was strutting around everywhere his mom, Anathe went. But I managed to get a few pats in as she sat on a chair next to her mom. What a sweet little devoted puppy! They will both be on a ferry headed to Athens today. An already tired Thanos will have to run the busy hotel mostly by himself, quite a big job.
Yesterday our swim at the beach was amazing. The water so warm, clear and shallow. We could walk out a long, long way before reaching deep water. Yet with a number of sailboats and other boats the water must go deep quickly. After two long swims for me, we returned to our beautiful spacious extra-luxe accommodations. Before too long it was time to go to dinner. At our local beach, underneath the broad canopy of mature tamarisk trees lies a traditional Greek taverna, To Steki.
It’s like stepping back in time. Thanos had told us there are very few Greek tavernas left in Sifnos. The foodie generation is looking for new expressions and experiences. I enjoyed another traditional chickpea soup. Norm commented on how much he enjoyed it too! While we were enjoying our cheese balls over walks Patrick and Martin the two guys from the sunset wall by the church in Folengandros. We exchanged a few stories before they continued their walk down the beach to their accommodation. This will be the 4th time we have run into them.
Greece is like that. Connections and reconnections are made. Now and in centuries past.
October 03, 2024 - Sifnos (Neridies)
"Last Full Day on Sifnos"
Today will be our last full day on Sifnos.
The plan to go to the north of the island turned out to be a good plan in more ways than one. A calm beach swim, gorgeous scenery, and the acquisition of a new pretty blue pottery plate. We had wished to add to our ‘brown with a white swirl‘ pottery collection with a few more pieces. Thanos wasn’t sure this would happen but said he might have a few pieces for sale if we couldn’t find anything. Norm’s memory for some things is outstanding … he found our original potter from 14 years ago on the way to the fishing village of Heronissos. Totally lost in my memory bank, we had visited a few others on Sifnos too but he found the exact potter. Unfortunately he changed his design and no longer produces the old version. But a plain ‘Greek blue’ plate caught our eye and is coming home with us.
The swim of the day was at a beach we had previously visited in 2010 … Vroulidia Beach. There we swam in nature with a school of flying fish jumping behind our backs. Stunning! Back then the steep treacherous road to the isolated beach was a sand and gravel mix, today the road is almost all paved and the beach had 2 open tavernas and sunbeds. Still stunning! The pebble beach so pretty with all its shades of rounded rocks, yet a sandy bottom further out. Due to the southerly winds the beach was calmer than expected.
We noticed several cars stopped in various places towards the end of the road avoiding the extra steep decline. But with the knowledge of our previous experience Norm braved it alone, much to the astonishment of the other swimmers. We were a little nervous of our ascent but Norm drove it like a pro! I’m sure they couldn’t believe the driving skills and chutzpah of the ‘old guy in the red bathing suit’, lol!
We decided on a late afternoon lunch at a quiet beach restaurant at the fishing village of Heronissos. Very typical Greek taverna near the water’s edge. Surprisingly not only was the taverna quite busy, so was the small beach. Later I theorized it may have had something to do with wind direction and waves. The sheltered cove here had hardly a ripple. This was the same cove where I had seen a baby octopus swimming among the rocks in 2010. Having a beautiful Greek salad and fries with oregano never gets old for me. Norm enjoyed his lamb although it was clearly more of a fish restaurant.
We headed back taking lots more photos along the way. A bottle of Prosecco was chilling in the fridge, awaiting our return. We watched the sun dip below the hill top … how lucky are we to be together for 44 years and still making new memories.
October 04, 2024 - Sifnos (Neridies) to Santorini (Onyx)
"Sifnos to Santorini Eventually"
Moving on to Santorini today with a little apprehension. It’s hard to leave the peace and quiet of Sifnos behind. Up early this morning to pack up. Sunny skies to greet us with a good breeze from the south. This will mean our beach is wavy. But no matter no time to swim. Though I’m sure I still have sand between my toes as we head off for the ferry.
There are quite a number of beautiful often sandy swimming spots in Sifnos. Yesterday that brought us to Vathi, a village protected by mountains on either side and a scalloped bay. The water was beautiful once again. A long shoreline, at times lined by buildings at the water’s edge, with a few long sandy stretches. Overall though, I prefer our beach Platys Gialis.
We dropped into the bakery Thanos father owned for a piece of honey soaked baklava. A shop full of dried plain cookies of different shapes and sizes, many fancy delicate pastries and of course baklava in different forms. While the baklava was good, it wasn’t great … heavy on the phyllo, light on the nuts.
We almost didn’t go out for dinner as we had food at home but the lure of a last chickpea soup proved to be too much. So off to our special restaurant under the stars and by the water’s edge. The wind was up and the restaurant was encased in plastic. There was not another soul there. Too windy for even the little moth snatching song birds. We ate outside anyways … it really wasn’t that bad. We ate only lightly sharing my bowl of chick pea soup, and for Norm a small serving of octopus cut up into little slices. Another family run gem with children running around, getting into just a little trouble. Soon it was time to say Kalinichta.
Our pastries and bread from his shop every morning.
Norm at Vathi Beach.
October 05, 2024 - Santorini (Onxy)
"Santorini Musings"
As the sun rose this morning over Santorini streaks of faint colour stretched across the horizon. It’s 8:00 am now and already 24 degrees. Somehow in Santorini one feels closer to the sun.
Santorini sure is a busy place. I’m really glad we do not have to do the Port scene again. Impatient cars, buses and motorcycles snaking up and down the steep mountainsides … siga, siga … slowly, slowly … pumping out toxic fumes as they climb. We waited in hopes the traffic would lesson but our efforts thwarted by the apparent arrival of another boat. Quite the switch from normally a much slower paced idyllic Greek island way of life.
Our hotel is only a few kms from Thira the capital city. But unexpectedly it lies closer to the sea on a much flatter side of Santorini. Our room is lovely, better than we expected. Although it is the most expensive hotel of our month long stay. The view not so much. The hot tub … really only a ‘warm tub’ was a nice way to unwind from the earlier crazy driving chaos. The only thing missing is a simple small rack for drying clothes. What do you do with your wet bathing suits or towels? Would seem to make a lot of sense to provide one as Santorini’s resources are stretched because of over tourism. It would also be great to reduce plastic water bottle consumption. Theo at Pano Gitonia was very forward thinking in this way. Another bone of contention is the wind blown garbage. With the exception of Corfu I have never seen so much garbage on the islands.
Now the things that are delightful about our experience in Santorini. The restaurant choice for dinner, Katerina’s, came most highly recommended by Bill and Linda. While we expected more of a traditional we were pleasantly surprised with its contemporary twist on Greek food. A wonderful experience! We started with a glass of white house wine, tzatziki and bread. Then ordered our main courses. Perfect! Mine vegetable souvlaki with a tangy lime sauce and for Norm a rolled pork stuffed with prunes, apricots and cheese. Delicious!
So do we like Santorini? Tell you tomorrow. Not exactly our usual thing, but we are enjoying ourselves here for sure!
October 06, 2024 - Santorini (Onyx)
"Santorini ... One and Done"
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Santorini to Istanbul … last morning in Greece … moving day. Morning started with sunrise for us … a very comfortable 24 degrees, the bright sun relentless. Don’t want it any other way! We went to breakfast earlier for two reasons ... for a better, hotter selection and most importantly for more time in the ‘warm tub’. A slightly later check out was helpful as well.
We left our bags behind for a tour around Oia and Thira … our Skoda car hugging the shore on the flatter side of Santorini … eventually turning into the crazy crowded village of Oia. The sign said we could but the reality was different, so Norm had to back down a bit dodging the oblivious people walking and moto traffic. We both said enough of that, Oia is not worth it for us. Crowds also in Thira but more manageable. Still too busy for those of us who prefer tiny villages and quiet islands.
So about how I feel about Santorini? My curiosity is satisfied. No intention of returning. We did not see a sunset at all. I do remember from my youth, sunset in Oia … sharing with only a relative few others. I will always remember the quality of evening light against the white and blue. Times sure have changed … alone no more. But no regrets coming here. Thankful for returning … I’m glad we had a good day yesterday. Unfortunately Norm did not have the chance nor the camera to understand this.
So the loose plan yesterday was a swim and a drive. We drove to Vlichada Beach as a possible destination but it just didn’t seem right so on we continued eventually to the long black volcanic sand beach of Perissa. It was a beautiful hot beach day and perhaps being Sunday the beach areas were busy. We found a good parking place close to the end of the beach. The adjacent mountainside cliff was quite dramatic as was the black volcanic sand. Entry into the water was a little challenging as was getting out to swimmable depths. Under the water were large fat flat rocks for a considerable away out. But the water itself was beautiful and I was grateful for that one last swim. As Norm put his head down on our Greek beach blanket, lulled by the warmth of the black sand … I said, “no time to sleep, you promised me a visit back to the Santo Winery”.
Earlier that day we had made a slight detour to the Santo Winery … just because the expanding vistas caught our eye. Had to stop. Luckily for me Norm was kind enough to put a hold on his nap so we could revisit this spot. There were many tables with the best views already reserved, but fortunately there was one ‘best table’ not yet reserved. We ordered a glass of wine each of different vintages and with totally different tastes. We ogled the cheese and fruit plates for 36 euros each. Small plates piled high with a lot of cheese. And some fruit too plus breadsticks. Looked delicious! As much as we may have wanted it, that would have compromised our dinner plans.
So very beautiful just sitting there soaking in the sunshine, enjoying the most spectacular panoramic view of the Santorini coastline, from a bird’s eye point of view. Most worthwhile!!! Although I could have easily stayed longer we decided to head back to our hotel for a quiet time before dinner. We made a late dinner reservation at Katerina’s where we were warmly greeted by our entertaining waiter. This time zucchini balls with a slightly minted yogurt dip was the appetizer. The main course was a stuffed ‘white’ aubergine with feta for me while Norm had beef ribs with sweet potato purée, a particularly beautiful dish. The after dinner mastica was particularly to my liking.
We fell asleep having had a very good day in Santorini. The following morning touring Oia to Fira area and its large crowds with busy congested areas cemented the future return to Santorini. Not our thing. Unlikely we will return. But we did enjoy our accommodations especially ‘the warm tub’ that was particularly delightful during the day; the restaurant Katerina’s with a modern twist to taverna food; the warmth of the black sand beach and our phenomenal stop at Santo Winery.
October 07, 2024 - Santorini (Onyx) to Istanbul (Dersaadet Hotel)
"Happy to be in Istanbul!"
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It’s going to be a hot day in Istanbul today at 27 degrees and sunny, much warmer than our last trip to Istanbul in 2019. Our hotel takes us back to another time,19th century when it was an Ottoman mansion. In fact our hotel’s name Dersaadet was an early name for Istanbul meaning ‘gate of happiness’. Our large room is like a comfortable vestige of the past. Including an indoor jacuzzi tub. But by the time we arrived 10:02 pm, had our welcome tea and went up to the rooftop terrace for a view of the spectacularly lit Blue Mosque, we were pretty tired from the day’s non events. Thank goodness Aegean provided a sandwich during the hour and a half flight here. We were now too tired for a late night restaurant foray.
Yesterday we checked out of the Onyx Hotel, leaving our bags behind, to take a road trip to Oia and Thira. Then returned to Onyx for a water break before heading to the airport. Bye, bye Santorini. It was nice knowing you but it is unlikely we will be back. Although we did enjoy our limited time there.
Now on to Istanbul and navigating airports with little connecting time in Athens.
The flight was very short from Santorini to Athens because of favourable winds, arriving 10 minutes early. Even at that we got to our gate when boarding had already commenced. The flight to Istanbul provided us with an exciting red sunset before arriving in the dark with the lights of the city twinkling.
We could see the traffic lights of cars streaming along the highways, slowly snaking their way along. We wondered how long it would really take us to get to our hotel from the airport. We wondered too if our driver would be there. We needn’t have worried … it was pretty seemless. Norm had good instructions where to meet but it wasn’t exactly a completely straight forward approach. We were passed along several times, each time getting ‘closer’ to our ride which came in a Turkish ‘5 minutes’.
By this time Norm’s knees were very sore from all the standing and walking. But our ride did eventually come, and the process, reflecting back, was pretty simple and just involved a few extra steps. The traffic was a non issue and in less than an hour we were at our hotel drinking tea.
Interesting to see the many police cars and police check points along the way. At one point the van’s dark interior became lit up like Christmas as we passed through one of the check points. Our driver apologized but said it was necessary. We drove on without any interference.
Our hotel being in the old section of town became quiet around midnight. We do not have air conditioning so we left a few windows open. At 5:30 am or so, the hauntingly beautiful calls to prayer sounded from likely 2 different mosques. Happy to be in Istanbul, happy to be at the Dersaadet!
October 08, 2024 - Istanbul (Dersaadet Hotel)
"Dreamy Istanbul ... and we got down on our knees and began to pray"
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Waking up to the loud sounds of honking horns and street noises is to be expected afterall Istanbul is a city with over 15 million people. And in our neighbourhood, Sultanahmet, with its cobble stoned narrow streets it seems extra congested. Thank goodness we don’t have a rental car here. It’s 8:00 o’clock and 16 degrees with an expected high of 24 and plenty of sunshine. We sat outside on the sunny balcony at breakfast and chatted with a nice couple from Nevada. Turns out we may have competition in the slow travel movement. Breakfast is an interesting mix of Turkish breads and pastries, yogurt, salads, olives, cheese, scrambled eggs and a few Turkish breakfast foods too like Menemen. Menemen is a typical breakfast food here apparently and is very delicious!
I had really wanted to return to Istanbul with only a few things on my must do list … a return to the Blue Mosque, a Turkish tea on a rooftop terrace overlooking the Bosporous Sea and going to a local park to watch the commercial boat traffic in the harbour. Of course flying home Business Class and experiencing the delights of the Turkish Lounge was also on the agenda but certainly not expected.
So first up was a visit to the incredible Blue Mosque. Walking uptown to the Blue Mosque from the hotel we entered a small Turkish market with venders selling everything from carpets to textiles to spices and teas geared to tourists of course. Along the way we had a fun chat with some delightful Turkish spice and tea salesmen. Obviously hoping we would buy something but also just for the sake of chat which they seemed to enjoy as well. We didn’t buy anything then but perhaps would later. We drank our good-bye tea as we proceeded slowly towards the Blue Mosque.
It’s easy to be overwhelmed by the gorgeous architecture of the Blue Mosque as we tried to find the right entrance. We did not take the tourist route but chose to take the prayer route as my intention was to pray for my cousins daughter, a young mother in her 40’s, suffering from a jarringly grim cancer diagnosis with only a glimpse of hope. I removed my shoes and entered the prayer room along with a handful of other women. We kneeled on the floor and began to pray. I can only describe it as a very special spiritual moment full of emotion. Afterwards we sat on the wall outside and watched all the people coming and going. Some obviously just looking for an instagrammable moment with perhaps questionable behavior.
On the way home we stopped at a street vendor for a cob of corn for Norm (grilled ok but not very tender). Then another stop a little further on by some colourful buildings, for a freshly squeezed pomegranate and orange juice. I found it too sour for my taste but Norm loved it.
We headed back to Dersaadet, for a tea break up on their terrace with a side view of the Blue Mosque and expansive Bosporous Sea views. Unfortunately the tea was served in a mug instead of Turkish style. But the view was the same. We watched as a large cruise boat left the harbour, with a long bellowing honk as it sailed slowly by. Most of the industrial harbour traffic could be seen in the far distance … mostly oil tankers it would seem. Something to view another day. We stayed until sunset, watching the sun dip below the horizon.
For dinner we chose Doy Doy, a Turkish restaurant suggested by staff at Dersaadet. At first glance the restaurant looked pretty casual. The lower level was very informal, a quick place to grab a bite to eat. But the restaurant had multiple floors … each floor’s decor different from the others and more formal with decorative Turkish plates and tablecloths. Finally we reach what we think is the top floor with very comfortable chairs and a jaw dropping view of the Blue Mosque all lit up at night. Turns out there was a further restaurant level by climbing a circular staircase to a few tables open to the sky. We sat there mesmerized by its presence until it was time to order. Of course I had to start my meal with lentil soup. No better start for me, as I love lentil soup. Followed by a vegetable pide for me and a kebab plate for Norm. Delicious bread crust to which I added some table spices to the cheese and veggie topping to make it even better. Norm very much enjoyed his kebab plate too. A short walk back to our hotel, under the gaze of a quarter moon. What Turkish delights in Istanbul will await us tomorrow?
The Blue Mosque as seen from the rooftop of the restaurant.
Norm's kebab meal.
October 09, 2024 - Istanbul (Dersaadet Hotel)
"The Whirling Dervishes Twiling and Twirling, Their Skirts Ever Swirling in My Mind"
Waking up to another beautiful warm sunny day in Istanbul. The sunshine so intense and pure. No rush, no worries today! At breakfast the sun beams down like a spotlight on the best tables with a view. Or one could seek more shelter just inside … but we go prepared for the blast of sunshine and sit at our ‘usual’ table.
Shortly afterwards a friendly couple from Reno, Nevada sit at the table next to us. We strike up a conversation. It turns out they too travel a lot including a yearly trip to Viareggio, Italy in February for Carnival. During breakfast we shared many stories of our travels before they headed off for a lunch cruise on the Bospherus.
For us the day would entail a different kind of boat experience. Ever since the last Istanbul trip I became enthralled with the idea to ‘ship stare’… go to a park and sit and watch the comings and goings of the many large ships in the harbour. Where do they come from, what are they carrying, where are they going??? … all questions my curiosity will never get real answers to. Our front desk hotel guy, Ilhan was amused by our interest … never before had a guest requested this. He called us a taxi and we drove a considerable ways along the seafront highway, further than expected, to Seaside Park. A lovely park with some comfy chairs and benches to wile away a little time observing boat traffic. We were not alone. It seemed many of the ships may have been oil tankers, we counted about 35 in our view plane but there would be many more outside our range. We watched a kind young man pull up on his motorcycle to feed a few stray cats some cat food and do some exercises. A bonus view, lol. We noticed a number of people doing the same, feeding the stray kitties. Which gets us to thinking in all these parks and green spaces we see no tents housing homeless people. No people were begging on the street either, that we saw. Interesting …
Norm couldn’t resist the grass carpet, down he lay and soon fell fast asleep. When the police drove by, I hoped they would not stop … he did look a little like a homeless person down on his luck, lol. Luckily they drove on by! Only a very select few, like cyclists.
When it was time to leave we worried that no taxi would stop to pick us up as it was a busy multi-lane highway. A few drove by at high speed but it wasn’t too long before one stopped. He said because of traffic it would cost us more to return. We were just relieved he stopped and were quite willing to pay a little more. And yes we were stuck in traffic for quite awhile.
We returned to Dersaadet for a ‘rest’ from a restful stop. But not before visiting a ceramic shop just a few buildings away. We couldn’t resist a few purchases. Norm had his eye on a dervish dancer bowl….I said yes to purchasing it if we attended a ceremony. Something Norm had expressed some interest in. So back to our room to do some research. We found a more authentic experience through a cultural centre that was happening in a few hours, so we bought our tickets online and off we went. It was a bit of a long walk for Norm but after several rest stops we made it to where we thought the performance was to be held. Up the many stairs we climb to the top … but no performance venue! We continued our search on the adjacent street, knowing it was somewhere close by. After several more failed attempts we asked a restaurant owner who made a few calls and redirected us to another location a little further away, but he said we must hurry! Hurrying is something we sloths, especially with sore limbs, do not do well. But we made it with lots of time to spare. Without his help though we would not have likely found the venue.
The Dervish dancing as it was explained to us is always done in the evening, it is part of the meditation practice of the Sufi religion, a branch of Islam. Only men dance, twirling and twirling and twirling. Between being mesmerized by their moves and the haunting Turkish melodies of the live band .. .my eyes grew heavy. Just like that I too was in a trance. I think I would be easily hypnotized, lol! Afterwards was a question and answer session. The whole experience was really quite interesting and most worthwhile going to see a more authentic display of their culture. It was explained to us that each member had day jobs and that this is something that is done after work by members of this religious order for education, and not as a tourist attraction .. .unlike the dancing done at restaurants.
So to give thanks to the restaurant owner who helped us, we returned to his place for dinner. Once again I started with delicious lentil soup. We ordered a Turkish bread which turned out to be like a puffy massive football. Really good with the meal. Instead of a heavy meal we chose several appetizers. The falafels were absolutely delicious as was the Turkish salad. Not so sure about the expensive tea Norm ordered ($10 Cdn!), almost as much as my glass of house wine ($14 Cdn all in). I have been reading since that prices in restaurants are up, way up over last year. Some say inflation rising to be over 50 percent from last year.
We slowly walked home, our tummies full and our heads still spinning with Dervish visions. So pleased to experience Istanbul one more time! Tomorrow will be our last day before heading to the airport the following day. One last thing on my list left to do … a Bosphorus Cruise. Will it actually happen?
October 10, 2024 - Istanbul (Dersaadet Hotel to The Great Airport Hotel)
"Istanbul Tram Frenzy then the Tranquility of a Bospherus Sea Tour"
With the windows open for some fresh air we hear all of the sounds of the street as it wakes up starting with the enchanting Call to Prayer. Our hotel’s location is actually quite quiet considering. Today will be moving day from Dersaadet Hotel (165 euros with cash discount) to The Great Airport Hotel, a much cheaper alternative for one night (39 euros) near the airport. That way we can be guaranteed to get to the Turkish Lounge earlier in the morning tomorrow.
Our breakfast table was waiting for us and soon we were joined by the Reno couple at their’s. They thoroughly enjoyed their lunch Bosphorus cruise yesterday which encouraged us to check off the last remaining request off my list: the Bosphorus Cruise. We had tried to book a small tour online but they never got back to us. After further research Norm found a public ferry, plying the exact same route, that got good reviews on Trip Adviser. Not my first choice but better than nothing. We would leave our bags behind until early evening and still spend the day in the city taking in the tour and having an early dinner.
But first, another trip to our nearby ceramic store for the purchase of a Dervish dancer bowl. After all a promise is a promise! Perhaps a little touristy but a nice reminder of a memory to appreciate.
To get to where the ferry docked was either a tram or a taxi ride. Our front desk guy said ”Take the tram it’s easy.” Of course this is a younger man with good knees talking, lol. The walk to the tram stop required a few rest breaks for Norm. Now where to buy the tickets? Eventually we find the machine with swarms of people trying to buy tickets. Why can’t there just be a person there??? Efficient when you know what you are doing, not efficient for the hordes of tourists who do not.
We board the crowded tram, and luckily got a seat. Three stops later and we were at the port. We both wished we had taken a taxi instead, but that is hindsight as we had a return ticket by tram.
The dock is crammed with all different tour boats of all different sizes and shapes. We finally found the public ferry, bought our ticket and boarded. A few hours on a wooden bench might not be the most desired or comfortable but the price was right.
Before long the ferry filled up with passengers. Even another Santa lookalike! I will happily keep my Santa though, lol! Unfortunately we could not hear the garbled commentary. So we had no idea what we were seeing. That was most unfortunate because the sights were truly very interesting … both historic and modern. We travelled both sides of the river under the three bridges that connect the European side with the Asian side making a few stops along the way. A relaxing two hour journey. While I definitely would have preferred another type of vessel, and would have likely preferred a longer voyage to the Black Sea … it was still very worthwhile. Now at home I will watch some You Tubes and see what I missed.
Back on the very crowded tram to the Blue Mosque stop. We once again managed to get seats but were so far back we couldn’t cut through the crowds in time and missed our stop. Not the end of the world, just a longer walk home. In retrospect given the crowds and the walk, we would have been far better off to take a taxi both ways. Back in the calmness of Dersaadet we planned where to eat dinner. We decided to go to the nearby Sultan’s House. Although Norm enjoyed his lamb kabob plate, it was a pretty basic bare bones place. We both wished we had of tried a restaurant a little more upscale in our time in Istanbul. (Our Norwegian FB friend who was arriving the day we left actually did find a wonderful place to eat very close to our hotel that we wished we could have tried, Garden 1897 Restaurant. Next time!)
Back at Dersaadet we relaxed until our arranged taxi showed up. In 45 minutes or so we arrived at our new hotel. Very nice, comfortable but cozy room … very good for the money. But we could see that it was quite cheaply put together, our window practically fell off … but luckily it didn’t. Someday though!
After our sleep we would be off to the airport early enough for breakfast at the Istanbul Lounge. But best of all, before we will leave, there would be early morning ‘Call to Prayer’ as we were very close to a huge mosque! It never gets old to me.
Our breakfast table was waiting for us and soon we were joined by the Reno couple at their’s. They thoroughly enjoyed their lunch Bosphorus cruise yesterday which encouraged us to check off the last remaining request off my list: the Bosphorus Cruise. We had tried to book a small tour online but they never got back to us. After further research Norm found a public ferry, plying the exact same route, that got good reviews on Trip Adviser. Not my first choice but better than nothing. We would leave our bags behind until early evening and still spend the day in the city taking in the tour and having an early dinner.
But first, another trip to our nearby ceramic store for the purchase of a Dervish dancer bowl. After all a promise is a promise! Perhaps a little touristy but a nice reminder of a memory to appreciate.
To get to where the ferry docked was either a tram or a taxi ride. Our front desk guy said ”Take the tram it’s easy.” Of course this is a younger man with good knees talking, lol. The walk to the tram stop required a few rest breaks for Norm. Now where to buy the tickets? Eventually we find the machine with swarms of people trying to buy tickets. Why can’t there just be a person there??? Efficient when you know what you are doing, not efficient for the hordes of tourists who do not.
We board the crowded tram, and luckily got a seat. Three stops later and we were at the port. We both wished we had taken a taxi instead, but that is hindsight as we had a return ticket by tram.
The dock is crammed with all different tour boats of all different sizes and shapes. We finally found the public ferry, bought our ticket and boarded. A few hours on a wooden bench might not be the most desired or comfortable but the price was right.
Before long the ferry filled up with passengers. Even another Santa lookalike! I will happily keep my Santa though, lol! Unfortunately we could not hear the garbled commentary. So we had no idea what we were seeing. That was most unfortunate because the sights were truly very interesting … both historic and modern. We travelled both sides of the river under the three bridges that connect the European side with the Asian side making a few stops along the way. A relaxing two hour journey. While I definitely would have preferred another type of vessel, and would have likely preferred a longer voyage to the Black Sea … it was still very worthwhile. Now at home I will watch some You Tubes and see what I missed.
Back on the very crowded tram to the Blue Mosque stop. We once again managed to get seats but were so far back we couldn’t cut through the crowds in time and missed our stop. Not the end of the world, just a longer walk home. In retrospect given the crowds and the walk, we would have been far better off to take a taxi both ways. Back in the calmness of Dersaadet we planned where to eat dinner. We decided to go to the nearby Sultan’s House. Although Norm enjoyed his lamb kabob plate, it was a pretty basic bare bones place. We both wished we had of tried a restaurant a little more upscale in our time in Istanbul. (Our Norwegian FB friend who was arriving the day we left actually did find a wonderful place to eat very close to our hotel that we wished we could have tried, Garden 1897 Restaurant. Next time!)
Back at Dersaadet we relaxed until our arranged taxi showed up. In 45 minutes or so we arrived at our new hotel. Very nice, comfortable but cozy room … very good for the money. But we could see that it was quite cheaply put together, our window practically fell off … but luckily it didn’t. Someday though!
After our sleep we would be off to the airport early enough for breakfast at the Istanbul Lounge. But best of all, before we will leave, there would be early morning ‘Call to Prayer’ as we were very close to a huge mosque! It never gets old to me.
A mosque nearby our ferry.
Not our boat.
October 11, 2024 - Istanbul (The Great Airport Hotel) to Montreal to Halifax
"Business Class ... Princess Class! (And Sometimes for Soe People, not so Classy)"
It is time to go home. 5 weeks travelling has come to an end. I could easily press the reset button and go for longer. But it’s been awhile since I’ve seen the grandbabies, Clara and JJ … I can’t imagine how much they have changed. Time to go home.
So up with the ‘Call to Prayer’ not to pray but to pack. The Great Airport Hotel was definitely a good place to sleep for the money … when headed to the airport. Rather than use their larger transport van we opted for a yellow taxi. We expected to pay about 500 Turkish Lira but the price was 750 TL instead. We paid in euros … 20 euros ($30 Cdn) which seemed like more than it should have been. But the service was truly instantaneous. So we happily paid.
In 15 minutes we were at the airport threading our way through security, checkin, passport control and more security. All was a breeze and finally we arrive in the Turkish Business Class Lounge. As fantastic as before! I grabbed a Cava to celebrate and a creamy Latte to go but made a strategic error when it came to selecting food. By this time hungry and seemingly early, I chose lentil soup, scrambled eggs and a piece of a Turkish pretzel for a starter. Suddenly I was full. And then I notice all the Turkish lunch delicacies as I am strolling around in awe of the display. Too full to eat more.
Our breakfast friends, the Nevada couple from Dersaadet, suddenly appeared and joined us at a nearby table. We talked and laughed until they boarded their much earlier flight. Although it seemed like we had a long time in the lounge … I wish it had been even longer. No I wouldn’t have wanted to have got there even earlier … just a later flight time. But if there ever is a next time I will definitely prioritize my food selections better.
Soon it was time to experience inflight Business Class dining. My first meal was good … homemade pasta with fresh burrata. But the following meal had nothing I wanted nor anything that appealed to me. One thing that surprised me was a ‘loaded with beets’ salad … better not drop a slice of beet … imagine the stain! It was certainly more comfortable than Economy Class, and I was able to get some sleep. Overall I was a little disappointed with the experience. But just a little.
One thing that surprised me … people are just people … even in Business Class. Oh, the drama! The lady across the aisle from me angrily accused her seatmate of flinging her long hair in her drink. I’m not sure how this could have even happened. Four letter words erupted … I was not sure what would happen next. Flight attendants arrived and asked if everything was alright. Somehow with the help of a barrier they made it work. Then there was the crying baby a few rows up. Then the loud French chatterers provided constant background noise, after a few drinks. But despite everything, in the darkness of the cabin, I fell asleep.
We arrived in Montreal with a few hours to spare in lounge time. The Domestic Lounge is so very basic compared to the International AC Lounge in Montreal. But we were grateful to get a seat and for me a glass of wine and a little food. We arrived in Halifax late about 1 am. And who was still there to pick us up? Our good friends Bill and Linda! So nice of them to be there! On the ride home we compared stories. So much fun to share a similar itinerary and sometimes differing experiences. May we all have the good fortune to travel to Greece once again next year!
