Welcome to 'Life in a Hammock', a capture of Gayle's daily 'real time' eBlogs of our travels.
Shorter than our Travel Blog but more literary with somewhat of a different perspective.
Italy 2025 - May 12 to June 16
May 12 / 13 - Halifax to Montreal to Munich to Olbia, Sardinia
to Agritourismo Sa Pigalva, Tula
Good Morning Sardinia! We woke up at 7:20 am to a chilly 13 degrees and the country air coming through our open window was so beautifully crisp and fresh. About 9:30 am we headed to breakfast. The friendly Manager (the cat) was there to greet us, she really keeps her eye on the guests! Breakfast was underwhelming and, just ok. But this is a working farm whose primary interest is not tourism.
"Off to Scenic Sardinia"
It’s a cloudy this morning, not sure what the day will bring. But so happy to be here!
Our journey started with a few hours in the Halifax AC Business Lounge before departing for Montreal and having an hour and a half there. Such a pleasant way to start a vacation!
Our flight over was Lufthansa Airline to Munich and then to Olbia, Sardinia. Overall a disappointing seat layout considering we paid more for extra leg room that just didn’t deliver. The seats were comfy though. A little bit of a rough start with a very agitated crying baby close-by, and a beyond chatty 5 year old who talked so incessantly into the night that other passengers were shushing her. Then there was us, still coughing. Eventually all quieted down and we even got in some well deserved sleep.
We arrive in Munich to a bit of airport chaos. Immigration was strangely not clearly marked and the airport was very busy. Where to go? We eventually found it but unfortunately due to a technical problem the likely normally efficient line was very backed up. As the Dragon Pass Lounge was in a different terminal, and now with less time to enjoy it, we decided to hang out in a restaurant instead. We found one with some German food … Norm had a pretzel with a potato salad and I had a pretzel with a large bowl of potato and mushroom soup. But when the bill came more than 9 euro charge for bottled water seemed exorbitant! (originally we had asked for tap water and the waiter said, “we don’t serve that here”.) So that’s how we ended up with the expensive water. I did notice no one else had ordered water. The tall beer that many had looked good though … but I don’t drink beer as I don’t like it. We were by this time quite tired and longed for a little nap.
The flight to Sardinia took an hour and a half. We could see the craggy mountains and pastoral land as we descended. Looks like some beautiful scenery ahead!
Our car rental from Avis was pretty quick and easy. Turning on the car, not quite as much, lol. First time for a hybrid car … and so very quiet it is! We didn’t even realize it was on!
Only an hour’s drive away we eventually reach our agriturismo with a little help from Norm’s natural intuitive GPS. Agriturismo sa Pigalva near the own of Tula is delightfully out in the country with zero road traffic noise, just lots of singing birds. A rustic style accommodation … but with a screened window that is definitely appreciated. Now mind you, the missing toilet seat not so much. But everything else is comfortable and good enough. We have a nice place to sit outside our room with views of the mountains. Even a swimming pool if one was so inclined. And the ‘Agriturismo Manager’ is never far away, lol.
For dinner we asked Massimo, the owner, for a light dinner. We happily devoured the traditional Sardinian raviolis called “ Culurgiones” in a lemon buttery sauce. They are a handmade pasta of potato, pecorino cheese and mint. Delicious! Followed by an Italian meriginue coconut cookie and some tiny button cookies filled with chocolate hazelnut. Perfect amount of food and it was quickly “Buona Notte” or “Bona Notte” in Sardinia. Sleep seemed to never feel so good.
Right: Greetings from the ‘Agriturismo Manager’!
Below: Beautiful donkeys!
Left: Culurgionnes
Below: Dessert … at first I thought the meringue cookies were ice cream and I almost asked for a spoon, ha, ha! That would have been a little embarrassing!
May 14 - Agritourismo Sa Pigalva, Tula
"Calling All Country Cuckoos"
I can see donkeys in the distance when I look out my window. And hear the occasional loud hee-haw in the middle of the night. So adorable!
Yesterday, was a day to not do too much. We’re quite good at that! Yet we can have a great day.
The ‘Agriturismo Manager’ we have now named Tula met us as soon as we stepped out of the door on the way to breakfast. She meowed softly as she led us to the inside breakfast area. But politely stopped at the door, to let us in. A very casual breakfast awaited: some packaged breakfast snacks, fresh yogurt, cereal, juices - pear and orange, different homemade jams, ricotta cake, pretty apricot filled cookies and sponge cake fingers. The coffee was strong and good. A bit later small croissants appeared too. No meat, cheese, or eggs. Underwhelming but dinner is quite the opposite. Today was similar but included fresh oranges and we asked for some scrambled eggs. A better breakfast! Unfortunately the Tula was unavailable to escort us - perhaps she was off duty chasing butterflies!
We took a short drive yesterday afternoon to locate the ‘dolmens’, historic markers, likely gravestones, from prehistoric times. The drive took us through fields of wildflowers so dramatic against the darkened sky. But as much as it threatened to rain, it did not.
We enjoyed the sounds and sights of country living back at the farm. Especially a visit right beside our room by the farm donkey and two small, stocky Shetland type ponies. We don’t think they are all donkeys but really not sure about the heritage of the other two.
Despite a few late afternoon ‘tapas’ we were pretty hungry by the 8 o’clock dinnertime. This time we would have the complete meal … three courses plus dessert. We started with flat breads, fresh ricotta cheese, fried oyster mushrooms and a meat plate. Followed by fregola - a tasty heaping plate of pearl-like pasta with fungi. After which three dishes were presented … fried zucchini rounds, hand cut small potato wedges, and slices of beef. For dessert, warm amaretti cookies fresh out of the oven! So very good!
Although there were two other tourists from France staying here it appears that they have left. So other than some presumably Italian workers we are the only ones eating dinner. The dining room is actually quite large and could seat a bus tour.
Massimo runs the place, his mother cooks, his Dad is the social butterfly and another (likely) family member cleans the rooms. They are all friendly, loud and expressive just like you may imagine an Italian family to be. Not much English but so delightfully Italian!
I forgot to mention the house wine and a digestive is included in the 30 euro each price for dinner. And it is actually very good!
May 15 - Agritourismo Sa Pigalva, Tula
"Artistic Aggius"
We are so enjoying the sights and the sounds of the countryside from our deck. No other tourists for now so the place is ours. Now with a little warm sunshine on our shaded deck, it will be even more perfect.
After breakfast, which is virtually the same every morning, I go for a short walk and then sit outside. But yesterday rain interfered at times with my plan. Later than we had wished for, we got out and about for our discovery drive. Massimo told us that we must go this special ‘borgo’, a historic village called Aggius. The borgo was a great stop … empty of tourists at the moment. The town is interesting from several different aspects. Not only is it stunningly situated amongst huge granite rock formations, it is town with an interesting history and artistic stone sculptures. We also got a hint of the history of separatism culture in the 1980s when some in Sardinia wished to separate from Italy.
We stopped at a newly opened shop selling adorable pottery espresso cups. We bought two to bring home for a present for Clara and her tea party guest. Unfortunately no photo as they are wrapped up for transport. We know they could be broken and likely will get broken, but the thought of a tea party was just so irresistible.
The hour-long drive each way was filled with interesting landscapes and many fields of different wildflowers. A very worthwhile day trip!
We made it back not long before dinner. Massimo and his mother had been very busy preparing a delightful spread. We started with stewed artichokes and a selection of local ham and cheese. Followed by a homemade ravioli very plump with a filling of ricotta and spinach covered with a fresh tomato sauce. Then came U shaped sausage meat in white wine and slices of pan-fried zucchini. Dessert was both chocolate dipped cookies and a creamy pistachio filled chocolate boat shaped cookie. We might not have a ‘proper throne’ but we ate like royalty!
The town of Aggius. Part of the rock formations around Aggius.
The fairly steep (at times) cobbled streets.
Soft pillows of ravioli stuffed with ricotta and spinach. Dessert.
May 16 - Agritourismo Sa Pigalva, Tula
"Saying Goodbye to Tula and Company! ❤️ Our Experience"
I guess it was the cool morning air which got me to wake up a little earlier this morning. It’s just before 7:00 am but only 10 degrees here in Tula. Temperatures will rise today and are expected to go to 24 degrees but we will be long gone as today is our moving day. We will be headed about an hour and a half south east of here to another farmhouse in Dorgali, Agriturismo Canales. That is if one was to go there directly but of course for us it will always be much longer with all our photo stops. I am wishing for a ‘throne’ experience with a seat this time though!
I guess it makes sense that it is a little windy here at the farm. Afterall high up on the ridge not that far away as the crow flies is one of the largest wind farms in Italy. Nevertheless we love sitting outside and enjoying the country view here at our farm … but yesterday as the early afternoon winds picked up we were just a little too cool. Even Tula was hiding away. Time to get in the car and go for a drive.
Another pretty drive through rolling countryside studded with colourful wildflowers. It wasn’t long before the weather improved and by the time we arrived at the coast it was 26 degrees. Our destination would be Castelsardo, a steep colourful town painted in soft pastel colours of yellow, orange and pale blue. We decided that rather than climb up through the town we would find parking overlooking the sea and just enjoy the warm breeze, the sunshine and the deep blue sea. It couldn’t have been more perfect.
We returned home with not much time to spare before dinner. Much to our surprise there were 10 plus motorcycles parked in our Agriturismo parking lot. At first Massimo seemed very surprised to see us at dinner. We had joked during breakfast that “of course we would be to dinner where else was there to go?” It was only a joke but we gather it was a joke that Massimo just didn’t get. Jokes don’t always translate well. But he warmly welcomed us to dinner anyways! Note to ourselves … be careful of joking when language is limited!
Dinner would be little simpler tonight likely due to having to feed more people. We started with a mound of soft ricotta cheese to spread over the cracker type bread which is always served here. Also a plate of cured ham and delicious grilled zucchini slices. Followed by a heaping bowl of pasta, sort of like macaroni but not, tomato sauce and cheese. Next Norm was offered a plate of suckling pig; and roasted potato wedges for both of us. Dessert was a traditional egg custard, Tumbada.
Tula was there to say goodnight with all her ‘stray friends’. And it was a good night for her as Norm had saved a little roasted pig morsels … enough for her to share with her scraggly, yet fluffy inner circle of strays.
On the road again.
The Sardinian flag…”the four Moors”. Corsica’s flag is very similar but only contains one head.
Right: A natural colourful rock garden.
Below: Yellow daisies so bright and cheerful.
we’re just not used to it, lol.
May 17 - Tula to Dorgali (Agriturismo Canales)
"From Donkey Heaven to a Warmer Paradise"
Waking up in our beautiful but quiet apartment at our new Agriturismo wasn’t easy … the room so dark and silent. It’s 8:00 am, 14 degrees with an expected high of 26. The olive trees by our apartment are in full bloom ... and even in the early morning the terrace is so lovely. There are but a few birds singing, a few bees buzzing and a few butterflies drifting from bush to bush. It’s heavenly here!
Yesterday we asked Massimo for a late checkout at 11:00 am. 10:00 am is a little early for us. No problem. Tula was nowhere around to say goodbye but we said farewell to our other frequent visitors, the donkeys.
Our drive took significantly longer than expected. There were so many wildflowers to photo. But we did arrive at 2:30 pm to check in.
We so enjoyed the afternoon on the terrace and a walk-about on the property. While there is no swimming pool there is the possibility of canoeing the river here. The mountains are at our doorstep so it’s pretty sheltered and quite dramatic on the property. But alas no furry friends. I guess it’s hard to have everything!
The dining room is so beautiful with sweeping views of the surrounding mountains.
We were headed in for dinner when I was stopped by the Italian hiking group also staying here and asked to take their photo. Next thing I knew I had a glass of white wine in my hand and a small crowd of inquisitive people wondering where we were from. Sympathy for the current Canadian plight poured forward. I sure wouldn’t want to be an American travelling now!
Dinner here could be a fixed menu on ‘suckling pig days’ or a la carte. Not wanting a big meal, a la carte was perfect for us. For dinner we started with their hot and cold appetizer plate … which was a complete extensive meal in itself. Well worth the 20 Euros! We then shared a small plate of culurgiones with a light tomato sauce and a side dish of roasted veggies. Good thing these dishes were on the light side. The white house wine was delicious too! Three nights here will go by too quickly!
May 18 - Dorgali (Agriturismo Canales)
"How Sweet it is! Friends, Gelato and a Sardinia Sweet 'Seada'"
I can’t get over how quiet it is here at this Agriturismo Canales. Even the birds sleep in! It’s 8:00 am Monday sunny and already 16 degrees!
We lingered over breakfast chatting with a German family of three from what used to be East Germany. Their home city … Leipzig, the home of the famous musician Johann Sebastian Bach. So interesting learning more about Germany and Sardinia as well. They are on a five week trip here and this is their second time!
Breakfast is amazing here ... a whole table of homemade sweets and fruit, far more than I will ever try. A favourite is the lemon yogurt donut cake. I think it’s only a donut because of the pan shape, but I don’t know for sure. So delicious! Then there is the bread table with all kinds of homemade breads and jams. And then there is the savoury table with fresh ricotta, local cheese and meat, mozzarella ‘knots’, eggs, and different savoury pastries. Not to forget the fresh orange and lemon juices and pear juice. The cappuccino coffees so creamy and delicious!
Yesterday we had special plans … a visit with our peeps, Bill and Linda at their hotel only 20 minutes drive away! But first we drove to a nearby beach town Cala Gonone just to see the view not to swim. The beach area was quite pretty, the sand more like rock but the water looked very inviting. We also took the opportunity to have this trip’s first gelato!
A short drive up the mountain and we arrived at Hotel Prano. Such a nice view from way up high. And fairly close to their unit in amongst a rock wall were five sweet little multi-coloured kittens! Adorable!
We chatted over a glass of white wine or beer and tapas (crackers). So nice soaking up the warm sunshine with such a pretty view. It hardly seemed like any time had passed before it was time to head home for dinner. Although we said “Ciao” it won’t be long before we see them again, this time at our place.
I really like having a mostly a la carte option so as not to eat too much. The menu at Agriturismo Canales changes daily. So for me, I started with their farm-produced red wine and the typical crisp cracker-like flat bread served everywhere. Followed by plump ricotta gnocchi with a crushed walnut topping along with a red cabbage and tomato salad. Norm had a ‘taster plate’ of mine but also had a braised lamb dish. For dessert we split a traditional sweet … ricotta and honey filled pastry with sweet honey poured over the top (called Seada). Just a few bites each, it was the perfect finish to a delicious farm fresh meal!
A little too cool to sit outside, we headed inside for a little ‘screen time’.
I can’t get over how quiet it is here at this Agriturismo Canales. Even the birds sleep in! It’s 8:00 am Monday sunny and already 16 degrees!
We lingered over breakfast chatting with a German family of three from what used to be East Germany. Their home city … Leipzig, the home of the famous musician Johann Sebastian Bach. So interesting learning more about Germany and Sardinia as well. They are on a five week trip here and this is their second time!
Breakfast is amazing here ... a whole table of homemade sweets and fruit, far more than I will ever try. A favourite is the lemon yogurt donut cake. I think it’s only a donut because of the pan shape, but I don’t know for sure. So delicious! Then there is the bread table with all kinds of homemade breads and jams. And then there is the savoury table with fresh ricotta, local cheese and meat, mozzarella ‘knots’, eggs, and different savoury pastries. Not to forget the fresh orange and lemon juices and pear juice. The cappuccino coffees so creamy and delicious!
Yesterday we had special plans … a visit with our peeps, Bill and Linda at their hotel only 20 minutes drive away! But first we drove to a nearby beach town Cala Gonone just to see the view not to swim. The beach area was quite pretty, the sand more like rock but the water looked very inviting. We also took the opportunity to have this trip’s first gelato!
A short drive up the mountain and we arrived at Hotel Prano. Such a nice view from way up high. And fairly close to their unit in amongst a rock wall were five sweet little multi-coloured kittens! Adorable!
We chatted over a glass of white wine or beer and tapas (crackers). So nice soaking up the warm sunshine with such a pretty view. It hardly seemed like any time had passed before it was time to head home for dinner. Although we said “Ciao” it won’t be long before we see them again, this time at our place.
I really like having a mostly a la carte option so as not to eat too much. The menu at Agriturismo Canales changes daily. So for me, I started with their farm-produced red wine and the typical crisp cracker-like flat bread served everywhere. Followed by plump ricotta gnocchi with a crushed walnut topping along with a red cabbage and tomato salad. Norm had a ‘taster plate’ of mine but also had a braised lamb dish. For dessert we split a traditional sweet … ricotta and honey filled pastry with sweet honey poured over the top (called Seada). Just a few bites each, it was the perfect finish to a delicious farm fresh meal!
A little too cool to sit outside, we headed inside for a little ‘screen time’.
A race to eat the first gelato on this trip before it melts! Chocolate and cherry for Norm, raspberry for me.
Beautiful cactus flowers lasting only a day.
May 19 - Dorgali (Agriturismo Canales)
"A White Donkey, a Hinny and Visiting Peeps"
The Mourning Doves were soulfully cooing … was it because they woefully woke up to cloudy skies? It’s 16 degrees at the moment and we’re shrouded with clouds, for now. We head for breakfast. The feast awaits us! We sure will miss Agriturismo Canales … it’s moving day. Onwards to Santa Maria Navareese, a seaside town about an hour and a half away direct.
The Mourning Doves were soulfully cooing … was it because they woefully woke up to cloudy skies? It’s 16 degrees at the moment and we’re shrouded with clouds, for now. We head for breakfast. The feast awaits us! We sure will miss Agriturismo Canales … it’s moving day. Onwards to Santa Maria Navareese, a seaside town about an hour and a half away direct.
When the German family told me about a worthwhile outing to a nearby historic farm/museum, I wanted to go. S’Abba Frisca is a park, a farm and a museum all in one. Marcelo was our guide, and it was his ancestors that originally lived on the farm. It boasts of being the largest ethnographic museum in Sardinia. From nature we learned of some of the medicinal plants used at the time; from the museum we saw the traditional dress of the day and how they lived; from the farm we enjoyed seeing the animals … indigenous turtles, white donkeys and Hinnys among others. Despite what you might be thinking regarding the name, ‘Hinnys’ are a rare cross between a horse and a donkey. We really enjoyed the hour plus tour although it was pretty tough on Norm’s knees.
On our way home we made a mad dash into the first grocery store we could find. After all our peeps were coming over for a visit and a glass of wine. We bought some Sardinian flatbreads and a soft ricotta type cheese to use as a spread, some cherries and sliced prosciutto and a bottle of Rose.
It wasn’t long after we returned when Bill and Linda arrived. Once again we shared stories of our travels in Sardinia, a few laughs and a few divergent opinions, lol. A few hours went by and it was time for them to head home. So nice to be able to catch up in person.
For dinner we decided to eat on the light side … ravioli stuffed with ricotta and Swiss chard for me topped with a fresh tomato sauce and just roasted suckling pig for Norm. For dessert we tried goat milk ice-cream with almond crinkles. Delicious!
As is usual, I think back on the day and reflect how special it was!
May 20 - Dorgali to Santa Maria Navarrese (Nascar Hotel)
"Town Traffic, A Treat and a A Toast! Viva Sardegna!"
Already at just after 7:00 am it is 18 degrees and sunny, sunny, sunny! We are within an easy 5 minute walk to the beach but the town traffic is in between. Our new place, the Nascar Hotel is family owned and run. It is the oldest building at 200 years in the town but nicely restored and converted to a hotel from a family home. Our bright and sunny room is large with a king sized canopy bed that has a partial sea view from our small balcony. And a large soaker tub that Norm is grateful for!
Our drive to Santa Maria Navarrese where Nascar is located was certainly a very beautiful one taking us through the very dramatic mountainous scenery of the Gorrupu Canyon area. We took a small detour to a mountain town, Urzulei, where many of the buildings were decorated with murals depicting life long ago.
It was good that we arrived early at our hotel, as Norm was not feeling quite himself and needed to rest. I decided to check out the beach and find an artesanal gelateria I had seen online. The beach area appears to be in different sections … somewhat developed, somewhat not. A few people were swimming in the beach section I was in but they didn’t seem to stay in the water long. Although I was walking near the water’s edge, it was quite a drop off to reach the water line so I dared not reach out and touch the water. There were waves but nothing too serious as long as you were in the water.
I stood at one of the adjacent natural areas and watched butterflies as they skirted patches of colourful orange nasturtiums before disappearing.
I found the Gelateria with an easy walk through town. For 2.50 EU my two scoops of Chocolate Rum and Coffee ice-cream were huge, and melting fast … no time for a photo. I managed somehow to not get a drop on my clothes but luckily there was a park across the street with a water source to clean up!
A lazy afternoon going solo but enjoying the sun and a cold treat. And fortunately when I returned Norm seemed a little better. For the rest of the afternoon I sat outside on the hotel terrace and just relaxed.
On our way to dinner we struck up a conversation with Stefania, on the front desk. She proudly showed us photos of her parents and grandparents and family displayed on the wall. Then she remembered she had a niece who was studying in Halifax last year. A nice coincidence. Norm’s sharp eyes then spotted a traditional doll and asked if it might be for sale. The doll had been handmade by the sister of her father so she wasn’t sure without checking with the family first. We will know in the morning,
We didn’t have to go far for a restaurant as there is one right here. A fish based restaurant but with a few other options as well. Norm started with a bowl of potato and green bean soup, followed by a creamy seafood risotto. For myself I had a Mediterranean vegetable pie with saffron cream and roasted potatoes. We each enjoyed a glass of Prosecco toasting our travels in Sardinia! We love it here!
Right: Leaving behind our beautiful farm, Agriturismo Canales.
Below: The Gorropu Gorge area.
May 21 - Santa Maria Navarrese (Nascar Hotel)
"A Soak in the Sardinian / Tyrrenhian Sea"
Looks like another sunny day here at the coast, but that may not be as the later forecast doesn’t look quite so rosy. Today is moving day with a two hour mountainous drive plus all our stops.
We’re really happy we stopped here at Hotel Nascar to enjoy life by the sea in Sardinia. The only time we will be as close to the sea as we are now. Our hotel room is spacious and comfortable, the staff very helpful and friendly, and just when you think the breakfast can’t get any better, it does. The restaurant at dinner is good here too. All around a winner … except for the early morning town traffic, lol. While the hotel building is only 200 years old the nearby church that we often hear church bells ringing from is over 1,000 years old!
It was time for a swim in the Med yesterday! While initially it didn’t feel super hot for swimming at 23 degrees … and we didn’t even wear our swimsuits. But that all changed at Lido Orri, it was now hot! By this time we had scrambled into our bathing suits and couldn’t wait to get in the water. The coolness of the water was a bit of a shock at first but very nice as we got used to it. I went in twice for extended time while Norm spread out our Greek beach blanket in a somewhat shaded area and tried to have a sleep. The white sand beach was enormous, and pretty empty just a few people around. The water very clear, quite shallow and oh so lovely!
For dinner I ate light so I could have room for dessert. I ordered an appetizer of marinated veggies … eggplant, zucchini, peppers and tomato accompanied by a smoked ricotta mousse. I was a little skeptical but it turned out to be absolutely wonderful. Norm had a goat ragu over strips of softened flatbread and pecorino cheese which he very much enjoyed. For dessert I chose Espresso Tiramisu and was invited to the bar to see the preparation. First two lady finger cookies were broken into a few pieces to fit inside the coffee cup. Then in was poured the booze, a shot of freshly made espresso coffee, and a large dollop of mascarpone cheese followed by a few shakes of cocoa powder. It was absolutely delicious! But it was a little hard to get to sleep last night though … caffeine jitters, lol.
May 22 - Santa Maria Navarrese to Gergei (Domu Antiga)
"The Culurgiones Weren't the Only Ones Stuffed!"
Sleep came easy here in our spacious farmhouse-feel room. Though we are actually a ‘townie’ in our village, Gergui. It’s a little on the cool side today at 14 degrees at 10:00 am. We woke up to the crowing of roosters and baying of a donkey.
Breakfast is a much simpler affair here but still very good. It is a small table filled with sweet and savoury items, all homemade. The yogurt is particularly good and a little thicker than others. The lemon jam was an interesting addition. No surprise there would be a selection of good cheeses here as they also have a cheesemaking operation.
We will be out and about earlier today perhaps a visit to an archeological site and a once a week market in a nearby town, Isili.
Yesterday after our final breakfast at Nascar, and a chat with a young couple from Ireland (although she was from Brazil) we said our goodbyes. The third sister of four who manage Nascar tried to encourage us to stay for one last swim but we needed to hit the road. Actually as it turned out we didn’t need to hurry along … as checking to Domu Antigua was not until 4:30 pm and we arrived early not knowing initially.
The drive was lovely with many wildflowers along the way. Much to our surprise most of it was not through mountainous zigzagging roads. In fact this area seems to be mostly on a flat plateau.
It was a little surprising that the remote gas station we stopped at had no gas. We still had about a quarter of a tank left so not too big a deal for us but a few Swiss motorcyclists that had also stopped seemed a little more distraught. We tried to use our Internet package to check out possibilities for another gas station but at that point there was no cell service. (We are using the Internet package off and on for minutes at a time and are finding it very useful except where it is too remote for service, lol).
Family-run Domu Antiga feels like it should be a country farmhouse not a ‘town house’. It’s a lovingly restored 200 year old building with the intention of showcasing Sardinian traditions and cuisine. A cooking class was already underway with a couple from Texas with which we later conversed with at dinner. We sat outside catching the occasional waft of smoke from a nearby oven.
Dinner would be al fresco, in the chill of the evening air. I put on my down jacket and we lingered over a delicious 4 course dinner. At one table were some young Australians now living in London but here for a 3 day stay. At the other table beside us was the couple from Texas, Angie and Randall. We enjoyed their company until the chill of the evening sent us reluctantly scurrying back to our rooms.
Dinner started with a plate of six traditional Sardinian ‘Culurgiones’ with tomato sauce. Plump with potatoes, mint and pecorino cheese I was pretty well stuffed before even the rest of the meal arrived. They were followed by sweet and sour zucchini rounds (which converted Norm over to be a temporary zucchini lover), cute little empanadas stuffed with fava beans, and a large salad with lettuce, fennel and sunflower seeds. Then came the meat course which was rabbit stewed in a wine sauce and for me melted cheese and homemade bread to dip it into (almost a Sardinian fondue). For dessert delicious little egg pastries arrived to tempt us further. So very good! What a meal!
Stefania was asking Norm what more could they add to their buffet!
May 23 - Gergei (Domu Antiga)
"The Perfect Pizza Premiere!"
It’s 8:00 o’clock Saturday morning and the church bells are ringing while the nesting pigeons are cooing competing with the full orchestra of a multitude of village song birds. Norm says they are belting out their tunes louder than the birds in Costa Rica, lol.
At only 12 degrees it is the coldest morning yet! Mixed sun with clouds, going to an eventual high of 22 degrees. Moving day for us, heading south to the ‘turtle farm’ Fattoria della Tartarughe. Hoping for good weather there! We will see.
We headed out on yesterday’s day trip a little earlier than usual. First a stop at a nearby market in Isiri, a nearby town. It was fun to see how the market was as much of a social event as it was a shopping experience. I loved seeing all the available fresh fruits and veggies so attractively displayed. Three Euros for ten fat artichokes seemed like a great price!
We also checked out a copper maker’s shop and a linen shop, two things this town is ‘famous’ for. At Domu Antiga, our hotel, beautiful woven fabric and traditional Sardinian designs are featured prominently. Even on the outdoor dinner tables under glass. So beautiful!
On the way back to our village we stopped at an archeological site, Santuario Nuragico Santa Vittoria not knowing what to expect. As it turned out it was a beautiful long walk of a few kilometres through the ruins, which over-stretched Norm’s abilities a little bit. But he survived!
We headed back to Domu Antiga quite tired but satisfied with our ‘day trip’. When we encountered a curious sight … a small group of untended sheep licking the pavement! We were perplexed at their behaviour … my theory being they needed a mineral found on the pavement, like salt. Coincidentally we learned more from fellow Domu guests from Germany that had a hobby sheep farm that was exactly what they were doing. That was an interesting conversation too as we learned about the ‘fun’ shearing normally docile sheep that suddenly would turn into ‘crazies’ when it was time to get the spring haircut! A funny anecdote was that one of the Germans pegged us as Canadian. He said he just knew.
For dinner we chose to eat at a local pizzeria although we could have eaten back at our place. I was so excited to have that first pizza experience and it couldn’t have been better. We shared a table with our Texan neighbours which was a lot of fun. Plus Angie knew enough Italian she could translate the menu, of which the specials were quite complicated with unique ingredients and combinations. I chose a simple caprese pizza …tomatoes, basil and fresh mozzarella. I was in heaven. As was everyone else with their choice.
We talked about living life in Dallas with four kids, now grown. And coping with busy professional lives, she as a psychologist and he as an Ob/Gyn doctor all the while keeping a sense of humour with four kids in tow in different far flung schools driving up to 200 miles per day for 4 years! Interestingly no mention was made of the current political situation by any of us. We did enjoy their company no matter the political preferences … luckily there was so much else to talk about!
Although the pizzeria was fairly quiet when we arrived it filled up in no time and was such a loud fun Italian atmosphere, everyone enjoying their pizza. Unfortunately, once finished unfortunately we had to leave as our table was booked. The walk back was welcome after such a feast.
At only 12 degrees it is the coldest morning yet! Mixed sun with clouds, going to an eventual high of 22 degrees. Moving day for us, heading south to the ‘turtle farm’ Fattoria della Tartarughe. Hoping for good weather there! We will see.
We headed out on yesterday’s day trip a little earlier than usual. First a stop at a nearby market in Isiri, a nearby town. It was fun to see how the market was as much of a social event as it was a shopping experience. I loved seeing all the available fresh fruits and veggies so attractively displayed. Three Euros for ten fat artichokes seemed like a great price!
We also checked out a copper maker’s shop and a linen shop, two things this town is ‘famous’ for. At Domu Antiga, our hotel, beautiful woven fabric and traditional Sardinian designs are featured prominently. Even on the outdoor dinner tables under glass. So beautiful!
On the way back to our village we stopped at an archeological site, Santuario Nuragico Santa Vittoria not knowing what to expect. As it turned out it was a beautiful long walk of a few kilometres through the ruins, which over-stretched Norm’s abilities a little bit. But he survived!
We headed back to Domu Antiga quite tired but satisfied with our ‘day trip’. When we encountered a curious sight … a small group of untended sheep licking the pavement! We were perplexed at their behaviour … my theory being they needed a mineral found on the pavement, like salt. Coincidentally we learned more from fellow Domu guests from Germany that had a hobby sheep farm that was exactly what they were doing. That was an interesting conversation too as we learned about the ‘fun’ shearing normally docile sheep that suddenly would turn into ‘crazies’ when it was time to get the spring haircut! A funny anecdote was that one of the Germans pegged us as Canadian. He said he just knew.
For dinner we chose to eat at a local pizzeria although we could have eaten back at our place. I was so excited to have that first pizza experience and it couldn’t have been better. We shared a table with our Texan neighbours which was a lot of fun. Plus Angie knew enough Italian she could translate the menu, of which the specials were quite complicated with unique ingredients and combinations. I chose a simple caprese pizza …tomatoes, basil and fresh mozzarella. I was in heaven. As was everyone else with their choice.
We talked about living life in Dallas with four kids, now grown. And coping with busy professional lives, she as a psychologist and he as an Ob/Gyn doctor all the while keeping a sense of humour with four kids in tow in different far flung schools driving up to 200 miles per day for 4 years! Interestingly no mention was made of the current political situation by any of us. We did enjoy their company no matter the political preferences … luckily there was so much else to talk about!
Although the pizzeria was fairly quiet when we arrived it filled up in no time and was such a loud fun Italian atmosphere, everyone enjoying their pizza. Unfortunately, once finished unfortunately we had to leave as our table was booked. The walk back was welcome after such a feast.
Domu Antiga,,,in town, but the moment you open the door you feel that country feel.
On our drive, with no farms in sight….could these be wild horses?
May 24 - Gergei to San Paolo (Fattoria delle Tartarughe)
"From Traditions to Tortoises and 'Gorgeous' Scenery Along the Way!"
Sitting in the warm tree-filtered sunshine eating breakfast watching the butterflies casually flitting around the surrounding tropical utopia, it’s hard to believe it was only 10 degrees at 8:00 am, just a few hours earlier. We ate breakfast with Robert, the visiting German friend … more people will check in the following days. I think today will be a relaxing day in the lush garden … which will be wonderful for us ‘sloths’! The only thing missing here is a hammock, lol!
We loved our stay at Domu Antiga but it was time to move on. All the traditional Sardinian touches at Domu Antiga will stay in our hearts for a long time. On this morning the British couple (whoops, I forget their names) were hard at work at their cheesemaking class which started early. First the sheep milk was collected … it took 8 litres to make a round block of cheese. First it was a harder pecorino cheese they were making, then a soft ricotta cheese was made from the leftover whey. It was an expensive class at 80 Euro per person, but what a unique experience!
We headed off on our drive south through some very dramatic canyon scenery … high rocky cliffs and deep river valleys. We noticed a big change in the reduction of wildflowers which were now more rare as we moved along. With extra time to spare we headed to a beach just to look and see, not to swim. There were lots of small waves hitting the shoreline at an angle … no one in the water. A few people suntanning on the beach and a few people enjoying the sun and view from the park benches, like us.
A short time later we were back on the road again, and were again surprised by the beautiful dramatic mountain gorge scenery on our way to the ‘Turtle Farm’. We arrived at the gate a little early and in the rain but were welcomed warmly by Loris and Marco. Soon the rain stopped and we enjoyed a glass of wine and a beer on the terrace and chatted with Loris and Marco, and Anita a staff member. A beautiful pheasant suddenly appeared on the roof announcing his presence. Such a beautiful place!
Before we knew it, it was time for dinner. Loris had prepared a tapas dinner for us which I had misinterpreted that it just would be a light meal. I was wrong. The beautiful varied salad with radicchio, lettuce, radishes, cherry tomatoes, cucumbers with pecorino shavings on top of a specialty flatbread (called ‘guttiau’) was so pretty it was hard to eat. But eat we did! However, when we had mostly finished Loris announced that the second course would be a carbonara pasta, a special recipe of his mother with a secret ingredient! ‘Made with love’ we rightly guessed! Then arrived the biggest rotini type pasta (fussiloni) I have ever seen with a lemon butter cream sauce … made with sweet onions, and with a just bare hint of hot red pepper. With the mention of onions Norm was in a bit of a food panic! But as it turned out no onions were at all visible ... it was absolutely so very delicious!
Dessert was another work of art .... soft ricotta cheese with fine almond crumbles and a touch of chocolate ribbons and black mulberries. Delicious and a light perfect finish!
May 25 - San Paolo (Fattoria delle Tartarughe)
"A Double 'P' Day Fr... Peacocks and Pizza"
Perhaps the peacocks were tired from their raucous Saturday nocturnal partying because all was quite ‘tranquillo’ this Monday morning. Or perhaps I’m just getting more used to their sounds … I would describe it as a boisterous hollow ‘meow’. It’s sunny and warm, and already at least 17 degrees with a high of 27 expected.
We lingered over breakfast talking with the new guests from the Czech Republic, Martina and Petr. Petr will be coming to Halifax in July to help a friend sail his newly purchased sailboat across to the Azores. Sounds like quite the adventure!
Yesterday was a quiet day for us. A day to not only relax, but do a little laundry and to catch up on our blogs. A day to walk around the farm a bit and observe the different animals. A time to enjoy the company of the resident tortoises which liked to graze in the garden just outside our room.
As Loris was not cooking on Sunday night, he suggested we go to a pizzeria a few towns away and a 20 - 25 minute drive. We wove through several towns, bigger than expected and eventually arrived at our restaurant. Although busy, for us it not only lacked atmosphere but the pizza was soggy! I had ordered a specialty pizza that promised eggplant parmigiana and fior di latte cheese. While the toppings were oily, they were tasty … but the bottom crust was limp.
Though I couldn’t get over the two men eating steak like cavemen at the table next to us. They ripped and pulled all the fat off their steaks aggressively with their bare hands … and there was a lot of it. What a mess! Horrible to see. Definitely not the place to order steak!
We were definitely disappointed, it was a long enough drive for mediocre food at best.
We lingered over breakfast talking with the new guests from the Czech Republic, Martina and Petr. Petr will be coming to Halifax in July to help a friend sail his newly purchased sailboat across to the Azores. Sounds like quite the adventure!
Yesterday was a quiet day for us. A day to not only relax, but do a little laundry and to catch up on our blogs. A day to walk around the farm a bit and observe the different animals. A time to enjoy the company of the resident tortoises which liked to graze in the garden just outside our room.
As Loris was not cooking on Sunday night, he suggested we go to a pizzeria a few towns away and a 20 - 25 minute drive. We wove through several towns, bigger than expected and eventually arrived at our restaurant. Although busy, for us it not only lacked atmosphere but the pizza was soggy! I had ordered a specialty pizza that promised eggplant parmigiana and fior di latte cheese. While the toppings were oily, they were tasty … but the bottom crust was limp.
Though I couldn’t get over the two men eating steak like cavemen at the table next to us. They ripped and pulled all the fat off their steaks aggressively with their bare hands … and there was a lot of it. What a mess! Horrible to see. Definitely not the place to order steak!
We were definitely disappointed, it was a long enough drive for mediocre food at best.
It was so nice to return home to the peace and quiet of the ‘turtle farm’.
May 26 - San Paolo (Fattoria delle Tartarughe) with a drive to Cala Sinzias
"At the Sardinian Table with Tunes and Tasty Fare"
It’s a sizzling warm one this morning! Already a comfortable temperature even in short sleeves. We arrive at breakfast a little earlier as this morning is the farm animal tour. To my surprise the table is already full and I’m the last one to arrive. Not surprising with so many up early German guests.
The farm tour was so much fun, starting with giving the little baby lamb a bottle of milk. I was surprised how enthusiastic the little one was strongly grabbing at the bottle. So sweet! The donkey baby, Emma, was so very friendly rubbing against our legs, looking for pats.
So many birds, mammals and reptiles (turtles/tortoises). Hard to pick favourites. Love the ‘rock star chickens’, the donkeys and alpacas. The kookaburras and the ostriches both had super interesting sounds. The ostrich eggs huge. Apparently the male ostrich is in charge of the chicks and does most, if not all, of the work raising the family.
There were many tortoises out and about enjoying the sunshine and nibbling on the grass which required careful attention to where one was stepping.
Marco was a wealth of information as he patiently explained habits and histories of each ‘zoo family member’. We thoroughly enjoyed the tour.
Not for sure what the rest of the day entails, we will have to see. But now back to yesterday.
It was around 2:30 pm that we left for the beach and a drive. It was a long but scenic route through the mountains with stellar sea views too. So beautiful! We finally arrive at our destination Spiaggia Cala Sinzias …the beach is very long with white sand and a few restaurants with sun huts too. We quickly adjusted to the water temperature although a little on the chilly side at first. The turquoise colour of the calm water unforgettable!
Our drive home through the mountains was absolutely stunning, each moment a new picture frame of forested mountains, dramatic rock formations and steep gorges. It seemed to take no time to get home.
Dinner was amazing once again. This time our table was full as we had different groups of Germans that had arrived, and a young couple Norm befriended from the Czech Republic, Petr and Martina. As it turns out Petr will be coming to Halifax in July for a week while his friend readies his new boat for a sail to the Azores! Norm will be picking him up from the airport if all goes to plan.
The meal was superb. We started off with a colourful salad on Sardinian flatbread, mine a half portion! Followed by a delicious tomato sauce Sardinian macaroni type pasta for me. Such a delicious flavour probably a result of the pasta being parboiled first then finishing cooking in the sauce. Everyone else had a specialty ‘fusion’ pork/ pasta dish combining both Sardinian and Bolognese cooking traditions. Served in a big crockery bowl, and cooked for 7 hours, it was sight to behold as it was dished out. I believe everyone had seconds! Dessert was a play on tiramisu … a giant lady’s finger with light whipped sweetened ricotta topped with apricots! Loris entertained us with his dance moves as he served our food. A wonderful jovial meal!
And as the meal ended and the wine was still flowing our neighbour Robert took out his beautiful handmade turtle-themed guitar gifted to Marco and Loris on a previous visit. Robert started off his set with folk songs from Gordon Lightfoot, in honour of his Canadian neighbours … us. A few Dylan songs including one in German. We all enthusiastically clapped along with whatever tunes he played.
The group switched back and forth between different languages while Petr often asked for everyone’s words to be in English so that we were included. So kind. Petr and Martina entertained us a story about their worst meal in Sardinia … not because the food was bad but because of there being too much! Twenty courses at an Agriturismo!!! They actually were physically sick from eating so much. Can you imagine?
We had such a great time at Fattoria Della Tartarughe! We will repeat it all again tonight but this time unfortunately without Martina and Petr as they have left to go home to Austria. No wonder there are so many repeat guests here!
A play on Tiramisu for dessert.
Hello there handsome! Norm enjoying baby donkey cuddles!
May 27 - San Paolo (Fattoria delle Tartarughe)
"A Perfect End to a Perfect Stay'
The nights are so silent here at La Fattoria Della Tartarughe. But the mornings can be joyously raucous! I will miss the exotic sounds of the multitude of birds. 14 degrees at the moment at 8:00 am, with a high of 27 degrees expected here.
Loris showed us a small book of photos illustrating the farm’s restoration. They have been there since July 2007 and spent their first month at the newly purchased dilapidated farm virtually camping … no doors or proper windows, let alone furniture. And there was Loris trying to get ready for work at the bank each day …what a nightmare! Eventually with no money but lots of hope they built what they have today through hard work over time and with a little help from friends. Fascinating story.
Moving day today. We will take our time eventually going not to far away to a town we have already driven through … Mandas. Antica Locanda Lunetta.
Yesterday after the farm tour we sat outside and just relaxed … and counted tortoises, lol. We worked on the blogs a bit then decided to go for a drive to a town in the mountains. There was clearly a festival or celebration going to happen judging by the town's festive red and white ribbons and by the activity in the church. The small town was ho-hum with nothing much to see. With no gelateria as we had hoped we headed back home. It was a beautiful drive through the mountainous countryside though.
It was going to be an early dinner at the farm. Loris and Anita had prepared tapas-styled charcuterie boards for all of us. So beautifully presented! In addition to a caprese salad, Loris had made us another recipe from his mother’s kitchen … little beans flavoured with rosemary and a touch of cinnamon. Then came a shallow crockery pan full of Puttanesco homemade pasta. Roughly translated means 'whore' or 'prostitute' and the dish is said to have been invented in one of the many bordellos in Naples and used as a quick meal taken between servicing clients. Loris used sheets of pasta that were cut into rough wide strips and covered with a tomato, caper, garlic and olive sauce. Anchovies are sometimes added, but ours was vegetarian. Delicious and filling! Dessert were some adorable amaretti cookies. A perfect finish!
May 28 - Fattoria delle Tartarughe to Mandas (Locanda Lunetta)
"A 200 Year Old Lemon Tree and a Flamingo Lpollapalooza (more correctly called a 'Flamboyance')
Norm was first up this morning with the birds and vanished onto the terrace to write his blog. When it came time to wake me up he opened the door and the clouds practically rolled in! What? Clouds? I was promised sunshine. Yet the chirping song birds in the garden were excited for a new day beginning ! And just like magic the clouds lifted and now it’s sunny and about 17 degrees.
Locanda Lunetta is such a stunning in-town property that gives one that country feel we so enjoy! Our spacious room is very comfortable, the shower is high tech and the terrace so private yet not isolated. Absolutely love it here, too bad it’s only a two night stay.
When we arrived yesterday the warm sun beckoned us to sit on our terrace with its comfy cushioned wicker chairs. Lured by the warm temperatures we thought it would be the perfect place to enjoy the aperitif option our B&B offers. A long wooden board appeared with typical flatbread, a cream cheese like ricotta spread, artichokes, fava beans, cheese and a meat selection. Followed by two good sized glasses of wine. The ‘small’ size charcuterie was plenty big for the two of us. In fact we decided to just relax rather than go out for dinner. There certainly is a chill to the air in the evenings here in Mandas. We could imagine in the heat of a sultry summer evening how sipping a glass of wine underneath the 200 year old lemon tree glowing with sparkling tiny lights would be pure magic!
We were sad to be leaving the farm yesterday after four nights. What a wonderful welcoming place! We can see why our 'neighbour' Robert has come back year after year. A final goodbye to Loris and Marco in front of the turtle gate. And on cue the peacocks gave us one last bellow before we were off.
Off to a flamingo tour! We had high hopes for a closer view of the hundreds of beautiful flamingos we saw from the roadside, but this was not to be. We drove around the back roads of the lagoon on a golf cart style vehicle with a knowledgeable guide who described the salt pan past history and the secure protected environment now for the treasured flamingos.
Entering through locked gates we saw the area where they had been nesting with the chicks thought to have been hatched by now eggs (with a 27 to 31 days incubation period). The chicks are a grey colour when born, and through a telescope I thought I saw one. But since our guide did not … I probably didn’t either. Likely I saw one of the many smaller grey gulls nearby.
It was a relaxing way to spend a couple of hours learning a bit more but overall disappointing for the lack of photo opportunities. Even Norm had difficulty in getting photos with his new camera. But when several pink flamingos, their gawky legs just a-dangling, flew over our heads and he had the wrong lens on his camera …perhaps you can imagine the look on his face! He did not swear, lol. Then it happened again! Wrong lens again. Finally though the third and final fly past yielded the success he was looking for!
The question will be will we be counting flamingos or sheep as we try to fall asleep tonight?
May 29 - Mandas (Locanda Lunetta)
"Not My Dream"
May 30 - Mandas (Locanda Lunetta) to Gesturi (Cortis Antigas)
"Confirmation of Another Great Day"
Breakfast was small but still many choices. Everything homemade! How many places outside of Sardinia take such pride … bringing a whole new meaning to ‘local’ products! The cheese, yogurt, meat, yogurt cake, etc. all from the family’s kitchen. Impressive!
After breakfast we took a short walk before ringing church bells summoned us. The church was full, and the ceremony almost ready to begin. We were ushered through a side door where there was standing room only. Everyone was in their ‘Sunday finest’ even though it was Saturday ... except for us! It turned out to be a confirmation for some young people with the whole community supporting them. A pleasure to see.
Gesturi is only a quick half hour away from our previous town, Mandas. But we stretched it out and were not only fortunate to check in over 3 hours early but we got the premium room with the private terrace. Ignazio, the owner showed us around and provided a cool drink of very intensely lemon lemonaide. At first I drank it straight up but as my tummy began to burn in protest I watered it down on the sly.
It was nice to enjoy the outside space in the shade and the coolness of our stone walled room. It turns out there is only one other couple here at least that I saw. So it is also very quiet.
But it wasn’t quiet when we went to the next door pizza place, La Taverna Della Conte. A large table was filled with probably 30 children all having a wonderful time. We were seated in the far corner mostly away from the action. But that didn’t matter, the room was just a buzzing!
We decided to eat light and only ordered three small plates … prosciutto and melon, tagliatelle al fungi, and a caprese salad. It felt good not to be too full!
May 31 - Gesturi (Cortis Antigas)
"Summer Wine in the Garden"
It’s only 8:00 am and already 20 degrees! We seem to have gone from the coolness of late spring weather to summer heat just like that! Not that I’m complaining!
We could hear the teenage youths on nearby streets chanting and cheering into the late hours of last night. But by 11:00 pm or so all had quieted down. Another sunny day ahead with a high of 31. I doubt if I will see anyone in a down jacket today!
Our outdoor garden area seemed to whisper to us the idea of having a summer wine and tapas afternoon. So after a walk through town, that’s what we did. I wished I had got a photo of the very large black bees with bright blue wings that were seeking nectar from the jasmine plants. The one negative about the sudden summer heat is that it seems that to have brought out swarms of irritating flies. In our garden they eventually drove us inside; but were even worse at the restaurant we chose in the evening buzzing around our food
Although the Trattoria Su Pisiu in a nearby town (Barumini) came recommended, we were overall disappointed. Where are those cozy romantic Italian restaurants? The outdoor atmosphere was rather ho hum, dull plaid tablecloths, terrible music, no view and there was no ‘real’ menu only a digi-code to get the menu on your phone. We really don’t like this method of ordering although we have encountered it several times already on this trip. Always need to hook on to internet though. Have you found this too?
We swatted flies and more flies. Our food came out promptly … Malloreddus Alla Campidanese (Sardinian gnocchi with pork meat and tomato sauce) for Norm and a vegetarian risotto for me. On the upside the food was fairly tasty, the service was good and the restaurant not busy. The drive home from Barumini was less than 10 minutes and we arrived back just before nightfall.
While we might have wished to call it a night, others had different plans! But eventually a silent night was felt by all.
We could hear the teenage youths on nearby streets chanting and cheering into the late hours of last night. But by 11pm or so all had quieted down. Another sunny day ahead with a high of 31. I doubt if I will see anyone in a down jacket today!
Our outdoor garden area seemed to whisper to us the idea of having a summer wine and tapas afternoon. So after a walk through town, that’s what we did. I wished I had got a photo of the very large black bees with bright blue wings that were seeking nectar from the jasmine plants. The one negative about the sudden summer heat is that it seems that to have brought out swarms of irritating flies. In our garden they eventually drove us inside; but were even worse at the restaurant we chose in the evening buzzing around our food
Although the Trattoria Su Pisiu in a nearby town (Barumini) came recommended, we were overall disappointed. Where are those cozy romantic Italian restaurants? The outdoor atmosphere was rather ho hum, dull plaid tablecloths, terrible music, no view and there was no ‘real’ menu only a digi-code to get the menu on your phone. We really don’t like this method of ordering although we have encountered it several times already on this trip. Always need to hook on to internet though.
Have you found this too?
We swatted flies and more flies . Our food came out promptly….Malloreddus Alla Campidanese (sardinian gnocchi with pork meat and tomato sauce) for Norm and a vegetarian risotto for me. On the upside the food was fairly tasty, the service was good and the restaurant not busy. The drive home from Barumini was less than 10 minutes and we arrived back just before nightfall.
While we might have wished to call it a night, others had different plans! But eventually a silent night was felt by all.
Title Summer Wine in the Garden
Enter
1:11 PM
Gayle
It’s 7am and the church bells are loudly clanging…..it’s time to get up they suggest. Meanwhile the song bird choir has been chirping and singing for several hours by now. It’s moving day for us as we head northwest to a town near the coast, Riola Sardo.
We will be a little sad leaving this rural area where we have spent altogether over a week, staying at three nearby towns. We will surely miss the fluttering lace curtains and antiquity feeling of Cortis Antigas. And will certainly miss all the delicious homemade breakfasts made by Ignacio and served by the ever pleasant Samuela.
Ignacio said it was such a pleasure to have guests that really appreciate it here, and presented us with a small bottle of homemade limoncello as we were leaving. He was telling us how not all guests do…much to our surprise.
The journey to Hotel Lucrezia took only an hour and a half. Luckily we could check in early. Hotel Lucrezia is like an oasis, with its beautiful garden and pink walls. Reminding me of somewhere in Marrakech. It’s now 33 degrees but with a breeze. Luckily I love the heat. Under the shade of a fig tree we enjoyed the welcome drinks provided… all four of them, and all the snacks (peanuts, flatbread, olives, potato chips, and crackers).
Nothing like a quick nap to feel refreshed in the heat. Our room is amazingly cool and very comfortable.
I sure do love it here in Sardinia! And to spend precious time yesterday watching the wild horses in Parco della Giara was purely amazing. As I stopped for a rest by on a fallen cork tree trunk, suddenly the first group of horses appeared getting a drink in the heat and a splash of water to stay cool. Unfortunately Norm was finding the walk painful for his knees, and with the heat too he was in no mood to enjoy such a sight. And as if to sense Norm’s mood the horses left as quickly as they came. No photos for Norm. At this point we went our separate ways, me going the full circuitous 5 km walk, and Norm heading back to the entrance with lots of rest stops. He did well though we would say bout 2 km each way. In the end ironically he ended up seeing more wild horses than me, although several of my sightings were close up. All and all I counted 17 horses in all, including 3 foals. For Norm it was a number in the mid twenties!
Then there were a couple of goat herds their bells ringing melodiously. For me I did not encounter a single other person. I hoped I was walking the right way when I came to a crossroad. But I said if the peeps could navigate their way back so could I! And I did, arriving only 10 minutes after Norm.
It is undecided how many wild horses there are, Wikipedia says between 60 and 80 presently; other sources may say hundreds. But what is certain is that the life of a wild Sardinian horse is not easy. Their lifespan shortened to about 20 years apparently. Known to be the last wild horses of Europe, they are the only survivors of an ancient native species.
Now back home in Cortis Antigas, where to go for dinner? We had considered an at- home picnic but since the grocery store was closing by 1 pm on a Sunday, that was not to be in our future. We decided to return to Gergei and Cabos’ Pizzeria where we have had the best meal outside of the several Agriturismo experiences. Once again Cabos’ ‘delivered’! I ordered a Caprese Pizza and Norm, a Calzone. Amazing pizza! The only problem was that we had been told we could only have the table for an hour. It ended up that there was really no rush at all by ‘Sardinian time’ and so I ordered dessert, Tiramisu. It was so delicious..and came in a little jar with a cover that explained it was “made with love”! It was beyond good! Wouldn’t those jars would be perfect for La Fattoria Della Tartarughe?
Could you please point out what I got wrong?
Enter
Summer wine on our garden patio. When I read the chip package I was shocked to see the words “may contain fish”.
June 01 - Gesturi (Cortis Antigas) with a visit to see the wild horses
"Wild Wild Horses Couldn't Drag Me Away"
It’s 7:00 am and the church bells are loudly clanging … it’s time to get up they suggest. Meanwhile the song bird choir has been chirping and singing for several hours by now. It’s moving day for us as we head northwest to a town near the coast, Riola Sardo.
We will be a little sad leaving this rural area where we have spent altogether seven nights, staying in three nearby towns. We will surely miss the fluttering lace curtains and antiquity feeling of Cortis Antigas. And will certainly miss all the delicious homemade breakfasts made by Ignazio (and his family) and served by the ever pleasant Samuela.
Ignazio said it was such a pleasure to have guests that really appreciate it here, and presented us with a small bottle of homemade limoncello as we were leaving. He was telling us how not all guests do … much to our surprise.
The journey to Hotel Lucrezia took only an hour and a half. Luckily we could check in early. Hotel Lucrezia is like an oasis, with its beautiful garden and pink walls. Reminding me of somewhere in Marrakech. It’s now 33 degrees but with a breeze. Luckily I love the heat. Under the shade of a fig tree we enjoyed the welcome drinks provided … all four of them, and all the snacks (peanuts, flatbread, olives, potato chips, and crackers).
Nothing like a quick nap to feel refreshed in the heat. Our room is amazingly cool and very comfortable.
I sure do love it here in Sardinia! And to spend precious time yesterday watching the wild horses in Parco della Giara was purely amazing. As I stopped for a rest on a fallen cork tree trunk, suddenly the first group of horses appeared getting a drink in the heat and a splash of water to stay cool. Unfortunately Norm was finding the walk painful for his knees, and with the heat too he was in no mood to enjoy such a sight. And as if to sense Norm’s mood the horses left as quickly as they came. No photos for Norm. At this point we went our separate ways, me going the full circuitous 5 km walk, and Norm heading back to the entrance with lots of rest stops. He did well though we would say about 1.25 km each way. In the end ironically he ended up seeing more wild horses than me, although several of my sightings were close up. All and all I counted 17 horses, including 3 foals. For Norm it was a number in the twenties!
Then there were a couple of goat herds their bells ringing melodiously. For me I did not encounter a single other person. I hoped I was walking the right way when I came to a crossroad. But I said if the peeps could navigate their way back so could I! And I did, arriving only 10 minutes after Norm.
It is undecided how many wild horses there are, Wikipedia says between 60 and 80 presently; other sources say hundreds. But what is certain is that the life of a wild Sardinian horse is not easy. Their lifespan shortened to about 20 years apparently. Known to be the last wild horses of Europe, they are the only survivors of an ancient native species.
Now back home in Cortis Antigas, where to go for dinner? We had considered an at-home picnic but since the grocery store was closing by 1 pm on a Sunday, that was not to be in our future. We decided to return to Gergei and Cabo’ Pizzeria where we have had the best meal outside of the several Agriturismo experiences. Once again Cabo‘ ‘delivered’! I ordered a Caprese Pizza and Norm, a Calzone. Amazing pizza! The only problem was that we had been told we could only have the table for an hour. It ended up that there was really no rush at all by ‘Sardinian time’ and so I ordered dessert, Tiramisu. It was so delicious ... and came in a little jar with a cover that explained it was “made with love”! It was beyond good! Wouldn’t those jars be perfect for La Fattoria Della Tartarughe?
It was an only a 15 minute drive back to our town, Gesturi, through empty winding roads. But as my eyes got heavy and about to fall asleep at Cortis Antigas, I could hear the Rolling Stones singing to me “Wild, wild horses couldn’t drag me away”. Such was a beautiful day!
We will be a little sad leaving this rural area where we have spent altogether seven nights, staying in three nearby towns. We will surely miss the fluttering lace curtains and antiquity feeling of Cortis Antigas. And will certainly miss all the delicious homemade breakfasts made by Ignazio (and his family) and served by the ever pleasant Samuela.
Ignazio said it was such a pleasure to have guests that really appreciate it here, and presented us with a small bottle of homemade limoncello as we were leaving. He was telling us how not all guests do … much to our surprise.
The journey to Hotel Lucrezia took only an hour and a half. Luckily we could check in early. Hotel Lucrezia is like an oasis, with its beautiful garden and pink walls. Reminding me of somewhere in Marrakech. It’s now 33 degrees but with a breeze. Luckily I love the heat. Under the shade of a fig tree we enjoyed the welcome drinks provided … all four of them, and all the snacks (peanuts, flatbread, olives, potato chips, and crackers).
Nothing like a quick nap to feel refreshed in the heat. Our room is amazingly cool and very comfortable.
I sure do love it here in Sardinia! And to spend precious time yesterday watching the wild horses in Parco della Giara was purely amazing. As I stopped for a rest on a fallen cork tree trunk, suddenly the first group of horses appeared getting a drink in the heat and a splash of water to stay cool. Unfortunately Norm was finding the walk painful for his knees, and with the heat too he was in no mood to enjoy such a sight. And as if to sense Norm’s mood the horses left as quickly as they came. No photos for Norm. At this point we went our separate ways, me going the full circuitous 5 km walk, and Norm heading back to the entrance with lots of rest stops. He did well though we would say about 1.25 km each way. In the end ironically he ended up seeing more wild horses than me, although several of my sightings were close up. All and all I counted 17 horses, including 3 foals. For Norm it was a number in the twenties!
Then there were a couple of goat herds their bells ringing melodiously. For me I did not encounter a single other person. I hoped I was walking the right way when I came to a crossroad. But I said if the peeps could navigate their way back so could I! And I did, arriving only 10 minutes after Norm.
It is undecided how many wild horses there are, Wikipedia says between 60 and 80 presently; other sources say hundreds. But what is certain is that the life of a wild Sardinian horse is not easy. Their lifespan shortened to about 20 years apparently. Known to be the last wild horses of Europe, they are the only survivors of an ancient native species.
Now back home in Cortis Antigas, where to go for dinner? We had considered an at-home picnic but since the grocery store was closing by 1 pm on a Sunday, that was not to be in our future. We decided to return to Gergei and Cabo’ Pizzeria where we have had the best meal outside of the several Agriturismo experiences. Once again Cabo‘ ‘delivered’! I ordered a Caprese Pizza and Norm, a Calzone. Amazing pizza! The only problem was that we had been told we could only have the table for an hour. It ended up that there was really no rush at all by ‘Sardinian time’ and so I ordered dessert, Tiramisu. It was so delicious ... and came in a little jar with a cover that explained it was “made with love”! It was beyond good! Wouldn’t those jars be perfect for La Fattoria Della Tartarughe?
It was an only a 15 minute drive back to our town, Gesturi, through empty winding roads. But as my eyes got heavy and about to fall asleep at Cortis Antigas, I could hear the Rolling Stones singing to me “Wild, wild horses couldn’t drag me away”. Such was a beautiful day!
From a far distance I could see a few horses by the watering hole, taking a drink and splashing around trying to cool off I would suppose.
We both completed the walk on our own terms.
Right: A beautiful wildflower just growing out of a picnic table at the park.
Below: First up on the path was a herd of goats.
June 02 - Gesturi (Cortis Antigas) to Riola Sardo (Hotel Lucrezia)
"Am I in Sardinia or Marrakech?"
Not a cloud in the sky! The breeze is warm but brisk today, with a high of 31 ... it’s already 26 degrees at just 10:30 am.
Breakfast is extensive here at Hotel Lucrezia. So nice to sit outside and enjoy the outdoor patio! The plan is to find a beach today and just enjoy the sun and the sand … and not get burned to a crisp while doing so.
We left Cortis Antigas with a heartfelt goodbye yesterday and a gift of a bottle of Ignazio’s limoncello after which we set out for our hour and a half drive. The drive took us through rolling countryside and more fields of wildflowers before we hit the flat land of the coast.
We arrived earlier than check-in allowed but fortunately our room was ready. Our ground floor room is tastefully furnished with antiques and has a huge rainfall shower. While we don’t have our own private terrace it certainly feels that way as we lounge about the garden mostly alone or sometimes with one other couple.
The garden is very beautiful like an oasis … decorated by roses in pastel shades of peach, pink and yellow, a giant fig tree providing shade with tables and chairs underneath it, and our own resident tortoise. With the surrounding pink walls and the intense heat of the day it almost feels like we’re in Marrakech. But instead of being served mint tea, we are treated to a glass of wine and a special alcoholic welcome drink ... in addition to a plate of flatbreads and small bowls of potato chips, olives, peanuts and crackers. We demolished it all. Best welcome ever, we said!
Somehow the afternoon just slipped away. Even though the price was steep (50 Euros per person … no wine included) we decided to have dinner in the enchanting garden. We were not disappointed. It was an excellent meal. We started out with ‘eggplant meatballs’ and a yogurt dip, followed by a creamy asparagus tip risotto, and then a ham topped slice of beef with a balsamic glaze for Norm, and radicchio rolls for me. My radicchio rolls were not only very creative but delicious in their simplicity. Each little roll was stuffed with mashed potato’s and cheese, rolled up in a braised radicchio leaf. I was skeptical at first but loved them! Cream puffs filled with Chantilly cream covered in dark delicious chocolate finished the meal.
We waddled off to bed, totally stuffed, but happy to experience such an elegant meal!
Roses so very beautiful.
Dinner in the garden.
June 03 - Riola Sardo (Hotel Lucrezia)
"Stopping to Smell the Roses"
Just when you start to take your mornings for granted … the bright warm sun shining flawlessly in a clear blue sky … and now, from sizzle to drizzle as the clouds move in. But not for long! And it is a wonderful temperature at 22 degrees and only 8:00 am! Should be more sun this afternoon and a high of 31 degrees. And just as expected the sun is now shining triumphantly through the clouds.
Yesterday while leisurely enjoying our breakfast in the Garden, a new ‘guest’ appeared with a penchant for strawberries. It was fun to watch the young tortoise snatching a fallen berry and pulling it apart with her claws for easier eating. Sure enough at about the same time Bella, the Tortoise showed up again today. Turns out she loves to eat wisteria blooms too!
We enjoyed being outside in the garden for hours but by early afternoon we decided to go for a drive to S’Archittu to a beach. There were several beach areas along the way but we chose the most accessible sandy stretch in town. Beyond the town were some beautiful limestone arches where I could see swimmers swimming through them. Looked beautiful but the walk was much longer. However at our beach we had a view of an ancient tower from a distance.
It was 37 degrees at the beach and even though it was breezy it was very hot which made it even easier to get in the inviting water. Not sure what bit me in the clear water but somebody gave me a good pinch on my leg …and it wasn’t Norm!
After our swim we decided to take a chance on getting some good food at a beachside casual restaurant. Norm ordered an octopus salad which can be an iffy thing to order, as past experience has shown on previous trips. The octopus salad came generously mounded on the plate, such a big serving. Much to Norm’s delight he found it not only very filling but very delicious too. My Caprese salad was also very good as were the accompanying cone of Sardinian fries. This spot was a great way to enjoy more of the sea breezes and views of the sea as well as good food.
We returned home and lucky for us got a premium parking spot as close to the door of Hotel Lucrezia as possible. Once again we enjoyed the evening hours just being in the garden, smelling the roses, working on our blogs and chatting the night away. So very relaxing!
Yesterday while leisurely enjoying our breakfast in the Garden, a new ‘guest’ appeared with a penchant for strawberries. It was fun to watch the young tortoise snatching a fallen berry and pulling it apart with her claws for easier eating. Sure enough at about the same time Bella, the Tortoise showed up again today. Turns out she loves to eat wisteria blooms too!
We enjoyed being outside in the garden for hours but by early afternoon we decided to go for a drive to S’Archittu to a beach. There were several beach areas along the way but we chose the most accessible sandy stretch in town. Beyond the town were some beautiful limestone arches where I could see swimmers swimming through them. Looked beautiful but the walk was much longer. However at our beach we had a view of an ancient tower from a distance.
It was 37 degrees at the beach and even though it was breezy it was very hot which made it even easier to get in the inviting water. Not sure what bit me in the clear water but somebody gave me a good pinch on my leg …and it wasn’t Norm!
After our swim we decided to take a chance on getting some good food at a beachside casual restaurant. Norm ordered an octopus salad which can be an iffy thing to order, as past experience has shown on previous trips. The octopus salad came generously mounded on the plate, such a big serving. Much to Norm’s delight he found it not only very filling but very delicious too. My Caprese salad was also very good as were the accompanying cone of Sardinian fries. This spot was a great way to enjoy more of the sea breezes and views of the sea as well as good food.
We returned home and lucky for us got a premium parking spot as close to the door of Hotel Lucrezia as possible. Once again we enjoyed the evening hours just being in the garden, smelling the roses, working on our blogs and chatting the night away. So very relaxing!
June 04 - Riola Sardo (Hotel Lucrezia)
"From a Dusty Spaghetti Western Village to an Aquamarine Paradise"
Riola Sardo, our current town, is a small but busy one. Unfortunately it’s not the little birds nor the church bells that give us the morning wake-up call. It’s all the traffic! But once we’re up and out in the garden we are surrounded by nature, all is forgotten. It’s moving day today. We will be heading northeast to another spot, La Vinia Bed and Wine. Will there be wine at breakfast? Now that’s starting early.
The pressing question from yesterday was … would Signorina Bella, the Tortoise show up once again for breakfast? Sure enough just a little later at 10:45 am she toddled out of the bushes, looking for a snack. Paolo, our host, suggested a sprig of wisteria blooms which she promptly devoured. So very cute to watch her eat.
Once again it was hard to leave the peace and quiet of the garden, but the beach was calling to us. We decided to explore a different area, checking a few more lagoons for flamingos. While certainly at some times of the year flamingos may be found right now none could be seen. Flamingo families seemingly preferring to stay south in the Cagliari area, too busy at this time of year with babies.
We toured an old town San Salvatore which looked more like a dusty old western town in Arizona. Although it seemed like a ghost town it was clear people still lived there. I just found out that this town was used as a set for various Italian Spaghetti Western movies popular back in the day. Not surprising!
Now to find a beach. The first beach we stopped at was lovely, only one person there. It seemed a shame to spoil her solitude and there was no easy access for Norm. So we drove on to Spiaggia Is Aruttas. The several parking lots were enormous, made for the multitudes. Although we couldn’t yet see the beach and despite having to pay 4 euros for two hours parking we decided this was the beach for our swim. We walked down the boardwalk for our first view. An absolutely spectacular long crescent beach lay ahead with water the turquoise colour of Koufonisi! Pure heaven! Of course we had to share it with a lot of other people also enjoying it. With each footstep you sunk further into the soft fine white granite sand. We couldn’t wait to hit the water… it was a little chilly. But being such a hot day getting in was no problem! We stayed until the wind had a slight chill in the air before returning to Hotel Lucrezia.
Not sure where to go for supper we asked one of the staff. Without hesitation she quickly suggested a restaurant one town away and an easy drive. We couldn’t have been happier with the Italian family atmosphere of Trattoria Il Boscaiolo. And the food as very delicious too! We shared a caprese focaccia bread as a starter. For Norm he chose a cinghiale stew (wild boar) and for me roasted potatoes with rosemary and a fantastic mixed salad. If only I had room for dessert it would have been their homemade tiramisu.
It was fun seeing what others ordered and watching the large family celebrate with their year and a half old granddaughter. The little girl reminding us of missing our grandbabies of a similar age back home. The young couple beside us ordered a huge round plate of basically various meat … love to know if they were able to finish it.
With full bellies we headed home grateful for such a local Sardinian experience.
Miss Bella high stepping it. She has pretty long legs for a tortoise it seems…so cute to see her walking!
An adorable donkey friend along the way.
Left: I’m so happy swimming in this turquoise water!
Below: Happy, happy happy!
June 05 - Riola Sardo (Hotel Lucrezia) to La Vinia Wine Experience (Alghero)
"Onto a Bed and Wine Experience - La Vinia Promises"
Waking up to bright sunshine and country fresh air at our new place La Vinia Bed and Wine Experience. It’s 8:30 am, 18 degrees and a high of 31 expected. Surrounded by lush vineyards and within site of a large swimming pool La Vinia invites you to stay for awhile and relax. Although we are technically super close to the airport I haven’t heard any noise, just birds singing and the occasional donkey baying every once in a while.
Every place has been special on this trip. We will be sad to leave the beautiful garden and certainly Miss Bella, the resident Tortoise. But onwards we must go. The drive to Alghero through Bosa was quite spectacular with its seaside views. In about 3 hours with lots of stops we arrived at La Vinia with lots of time for a swim. It was a little cooler today yet the pool still felt warm enough. It does seems strange to feel a chill in the air when the temperature is 25 degrees with little wind. As the next few days warm up into the 30’s I’m sure we will very much appreciate the pool.
La Vinia is tucked away amidst a sea of grape vines. A modern casual place seemingly fairly full judging by the couples around the pool. Our room is a good size and very comfortable. As Norm said to me, “Might be a little too much sun here for you”. He was right although fortunately our terrace is shaded from the intense mid day sun.
For dinner we drove to a nearby town about 10 minutes away. Another truly Italian experience, no obvious tourists in sight. For myself I chose a 4 cheese pizza and for Norm lamb chops and spaghetti. Food was good but not as good as last night.
No need for the phone GPS to get back in the dark, Norm has memorized the route home and all its twists and turns… no problemo!
June 06 - La Vinia Wine Experience (Alghero)
"Getting Corked"
With all the activity of the bird choir belting out tunes how did I sleep in? It’s a scorching Saturday already 25 degrees hot, heading to 32 today. Sizzle, sizzle!
It was nice just to super relax the whole day … yesterday’s program. We did nothing too much, eventually enjoying a swim in the pool. We could have gone on a wine tasting tour of the winery on the family property but we didn’t. We could have gone into Alghero only a half hour away. Or we could have gone to anyone of the many beaches on the coast. But we didn’t!
We love our comfortable room at La Vinia. Not the biggest room but certainly comfortable. The rainfall shower is arguably the best ever. Our outdoor space is good, but could be improved with more cushy cushions and another chair. We have a small loveseat but it’s hard to move around in the morning to avoid the hot sun. Love that our terrace is shaded by late morning as there is not a lot of shade around the property. No place to dry a few clothes, bathing suits or towels. Here you would think there might be but there is not. I miss the Greek pull out lines.
For dinner we went into town to a large grocery store, suggested by Matteo, our friendly helpful host. We passed several other superstores and wondered why this one was suggested. Entering the store we then understood. It had quite a vast deli counter where there were countless store-made possibilities. We ended up getting some soft ricotta cheese and tomato focaccia sandwiches, olives, ham, a big salad and a few other things. Wine from the vineyard too!
We had our 'picnic' in front of our unit as it was the coolest place to be. La Vinia excels in sunny places around the pool and grassy areas but few shady spots good for a picnic. Norm mentioned to Matteo about a wonderful shady spot he might consider another year for a picnic spot underneath the charm of an age old cork tree. Matteo always has a listening ear and really seemed to consider the possibility. What is more everyday to a Sardinian is sometimes very special to a visitor. Every 9 to 11 years the cork is cut and left to regrow. It makes me appreciate wine corks even that much more.
As the lights of the courtyard began to twinkle, and the swallows did their dipping and diving it seemed to be the right time to say Buona Notte!
It was nice just to super relax the whole day … yesterday’s program. We did nothing too much, eventually enjoying a swim in the pool. We could have gone on a wine tasting tour of the winery on the family property but we didn’t. We could have gone into Alghero only a half hour away. Or we could have gone to anyone of the many beaches on the coast. But we didn’t!
We love our comfortable room at La Vinia. Not the biggest room but certainly comfortable. The rainfall shower is arguably the best ever. Our outdoor space is good, but could be improved with more cushy cushions and another chair. We have a small loveseat but it’s hard to move around in the morning to avoid the hot sun. Love that our terrace is shaded by late morning as there is not a lot of shade around the property. No place to dry a few clothes, bathing suits or towels. Here you would think there might be but there is not. I miss the Greek pull out lines.
For dinner we went into town to a large grocery store, suggested by Matteo, our friendly helpful host. We passed several other superstores and wondered why this one was suggested. Entering the store we then understood. It had quite a vast deli counter where there were countless store-made possibilities. We ended up getting some soft ricotta cheese and tomato focaccia sandwiches, olives, ham, a big salad and a few other things. Wine from the vineyard too!
We had our 'picnic' in front of our unit as it was the coolest place to be. La Vinia excels in sunny places around the pool and grassy areas but few shady spots good for a picnic. Norm mentioned to Matteo about a wonderful shady spot he might consider another year for a picnic spot underneath the charm of an age old cork tree. Matteo always has a listening ear and really seemed to consider the possibility. What is more everyday to a Sardinian is sometimes very special to a visitor. Every 9 to 11 years the cork is cut and left to regrow. It makes me appreciate wine corks even that much more.
As the lights of the courtyard began to twinkle, and the swallows did their dipping and diving it seemed to be the right time to say Buona Notte!
help from evening sprinklers. The grass on the property was so lush and green I wasn’t even sure if I should walk on it, lol.
On the right the small olive tree with is tiny twinkling lights was so pretty at night.
Below the 'corked' trees just outside our unit.
June 07 - La Vinia Wine Experience (Alghero) with a drive to a beach
"The Sting"
I woke up extra early this morning with travel and wild boar on my mind. There was quite the commotion in the ‘hood’ last night. Dogs were barking ferociously. Our accommodation is surrounded by an electric fence to keep out wild boar. But that doesn’t mean that they were not somewhere out in the vineyard carousing in the dark of the night. Now though the sun is shining, not a cloud in the sky and at 7:30 am it is already 22 degrees! We will leave today for ‘greener pastures’ … back to mainland Italy - Verona area and the Dolomites. We will miss you Sardinia! A lot!
After a very quick breakfast we were off. We would be flying Ryanair for the first time.
Breakfast here is a simple affair … an Italian breakfast, buffet style. There are lots of choices for different types of Italian coffees. Just press a button and the coffee magic happens. There are several types of local yogurt available in little tubs. The lemon is quite delicious. Cheese, meat, large croissants, toast, boiled eggs, and juice choices are all laid out. Then there is Grandma’s lemon ‘cake’ more like squares … not a fan, sorry ‘Nonna’!
As much as I love the heat sometimes it gets the better out of me and I was feeling dehydrated no matter how much water I drank. The long swim in the pool midday felt very good. Being so hot outside we waited until later in the day to go for a drive to the beach. In 30 minutes we arrived at a beach quite covered in thick wads of seaweed. I didn’t care I was going for a swim anyways. There were a handful of people around the small beach and a few boaters and paddle boarders. I wove my way around the sandy patches avoiding the seaweed as much as I could. The water was incredibly warm for the most part with an occasional cool current running through. So nice and warm for that final swim … or so I thought. On my way back to the beach to encourage Norm to go in to cool off I felt a searing intense pain in three fingers of my left hand. I screamed out in pain. I had no idea what bit or stung me. I was very fortunate to encounter a nice Italian man who knew immediately … jellyfish … and helped guide me to the safety of the shore through my tears. Without his help almost for certain would I have bumped into another one of the several there. But I learned a new Italian word that day… ‘Medusa’ … means jellyfish in Italian.
The pain eventually subsided with the help from La Vinia’s first aid supplies. Our leftover balsamic vinegar and warm water soaks did not work as well as maybe thought. But nothing can stop us from going to dinner! So off we went to the closest choice … a pizzeria 6 minutes away. It was Saturday night chaos … children were joyously jumping around on the inflatables, trampolines etc. squished into a space next to the restaurant. Long tables were set for probably about 100 people. Staff seemed overwhelmed and unorganized. Not really in the mood for this … but as the evening wore on we couldn’t help but feel the contagious cheerful good mood vibes. It was all quite entertaining! From the pizza throwing show-off chef; to his frantic assistants topping multiple pizzas at once all the while stoking the wood-fired pizza oven; to the ‘lemon creme’ drink we were kindly offered as we left. Even though all was so hectic they still wanted to know where we were from! And of course everyone knows someone from Sardinia now living in Canada. With all the smiles and joviality, we left very happy. Any pain remaining now long gone.
There were no leftovers to take home as we just shared a funghi pizza. By the time we left the pizzeria was absolutely humming with activity as many more people had arrived. I suspect a good night was had by all!
On the right: A long wait to be served.
Below: Setting up for the big party. Bouncy castles and trampolines in the background.
June 08 - La Vinia Wine Experience (Alghero) to Verona (Tenuta Delo)
"Romeo Romeo Where For Art Thou? ... In the Vineyard of Course!"
The sheer pale yellow curtains are blowing as the wind whips them around. I can hear from my window the wind rippling through leaves of the grapevines whispering it’s time to get up. It’s 8:30 am and 23 degrees with a high of 28 expected. Another beautiful day, not in Sardinia this time but in Northern Italy.
We are now at Agriturismo Delos Relais about a a half hour away from the airport in Verona … that is important as that is where we will change up our Nissan Juke for something smaller, more compact. Norm is unhappy both because of not getting the size of car he ordered but also because of a suddenly very sore back ache.
We said our goodbyes to Sardinia after almost four weeks of travelling there. And still there is more potential travel if we should return. Sardinia … what’s not to love? I especially enjoyed all our accommodations that we stayed in, the wild flowers that adorned almost every roadside; the farm animals out and about; the wild horses and their free spirit; the rough rugged scenic views, and the incredible turquoise blue water and long sandy beaches. The people are a gem too, so helpful and friendly! And oh the food!!!
We flew Ryanair from Sardinia to Milano Bergamo Airport, about a 70 minute flight. While the bag check-in was very efficient there were a few annoyances along the way like a delayed flight, a last minute gate change and a crowded bus ride into the airport terminal. But no big deal. We picked up our rental car from Hertz and to our disappointment they upgraded us to a significantly bigger car. Norm is not happy.
Taking a more rural road to our Agriturismo took us through surrounding vineyards, vast plains dotted with town after town, and wine tasting opportunities we did not take advantage of. We eventually arrived at our Agriturismo and were met by charming Hector, the owner/retired doctor and present philosopher. What a character!
Agriturismo Delos Relais is tucked away in the rolling countryside foothills of the Dolomites. It is different than the many agriturismos we have stayed in over the years as it is much more refined. Our room is huge with screened windows that allow the beautiful breeze to cool off the room. We do have air conditioning too if necessary. There are no meals here except for breakfast. (A few days later we were offered the possibility of dinner). So we must drive to a neighbouring village for dinner.
That’s how we wound up in Mizzole, a quiet village not very far away as the crow flies but a little ways as the narrow road curves and winds … and that is the ‘good road’ there. Our reservation at Osteria Le Piere di Martini Paulo was at 8:00 pm outside, already busy with two large groups. We ordered a risotto di fungi for two, a mixed salad and a sausage dish for Norm Delicious! Although the risotto rice seemed a tad underdone for our taste. Finally, dessert … Tiramisu topped with a cocoa heart shape completed the meal. All in all a lovely meal in a true Italian setting!
Beautiful surrounding vineyards as seen from our bedroom window.
On the left beautiful geraniums.
Below a caper plant! What a beautiful flower!
June 09 - Verona (Agriturismo Tenuta Delo)
"The One That Got Away"
A big day is planned so it’s time to wake up, not too early but not late either. At 8:30 am it’s 22 degrees and will likely climb into the high 20s later in the day. A trip to Lake Garda and home through the mountains is planned.
But first, breakfast. Breakfast is buffet style, but very low key. Not one of my favourites. But I do love the olive tapenade that has two versions … a black and a green one. We are alone this morning everyone else already gone.
Yesterday we needed to exchange the car at the Verona Airport as previously arranged. But when we got there the staff had already given it away! Another car was available in Verona city and the young employee Giorgia offered to go get it for us. So we sat out side and waited and waited. An hour later the car shows up. It’s perfect Norm says. We chat a little more with Giorgia. It turns out she’s renovating her Grandma’s house on Lake Garda to rent out. An idea to possibly keep in mind if we ever return to this area.
So we return to our peaceful, tranquil place in the country so Norm can rest up his back. For dinner we chose to go to Trattoria Tri Ori. Such a nice warm night to eat outdoors!
There were quite a few choices for me on the menu. It was hard to choose. I ended up having tagliatelle di porcini. It was very good of course. Norm enjoyed two dishes, pappardelle with duck ragout and rabbit with polenta. A few other Italian people were there as well, no tourists except us.
On the way home a good sized rabbit hopped quickly from the narrow road into the nearby bushes … whew! … the one that got away! No stewpot for him!
But first, breakfast. Breakfast is buffet style, but very low key. Not one of my favourites. But I do love the olive tapenade that has two versions … a black and a green one. We are alone this morning everyone else already gone.
Yesterday we needed to exchange the car at the Verona Airport as previously arranged. But when we got there the staff had already given it away! Another car was available in Verona city and the young employee Giorgia offered to go get it for us. So we sat out side and waited and waited. An hour later the car shows up. It’s perfect Norm says. We chat a little more with Giorgia. It turns out she’s renovating her Grandma’s house on Lake Garda to rent out. An idea to possibly keep in mind if we ever return to this area.
So we return to our peaceful, tranquil place in the country so Norm can rest up his back. For dinner we chose to go to Trattoria Tri Ori. Such a nice warm night to eat outdoors!
There were quite a few choices for me on the menu. It was hard to choose. I ended up having tagliatelle di porcini. It was very good of course. Norm enjoyed two dishes, pappardelle with duck ragout and rabbit with polenta. A few other Italian people were there as well, no tourists except us.
On the way home a good sized rabbit hopped quickly from the narrow road into the nearby bushes … whew! … the one that got away! No stewpot for him!
To the left so much history almost everywhere!
Below our restaurant. Tri Ori.
To the right - enjoying my dinner.
Below - my tagliatelle pasta with porcini fungi.
June 10 - Verona (Agriturismo Tenuta Delo)
"Pasta That Could Strangle a Priest"
It’s not even 8:00 am and already ‘Dr. No Degree Gayle’ is called into action. Norm has three large welts on his legs, one of them throbbing somewhat. What next? To my untrained eye they look like possible spider bites. I’m so asleep still I grab a Tide stain removal stick rather than the After Bite medication. Whoops! Luckily no stain removal was applied!
It’s another beautiful sunny morning here in the vineyards with no breeze and 23 degrees at 8:30 am. A high to 30 is expected.
Our road trip yesterday was a long one. Even longer after an oops mistake on my part before we were anywhere near Lake Garda. For the big picture the intent was to go directly to Lake Garda then up along the lake then through the mountains to get home. However not long into the journey using the GPS I misread the exit to turn off and instead of backtracking we decided to wind our way through towns to finally hook up with the right road again. Let’s just say no one was happy!
I had no idea Lake Garda, Italy’s largest lake, is quite a resort destination. There were many tourists milling about and surprisingly a significant amount of them were biking all along the way. Our road tightly hugged the lake shore all the way which made for such a scenic drive. Narrow rocky beaches provided sunbathing for a number of people, but I saw very few in the water. Except for the multitude of wind surfers mostly at the northern end of the lake. Probably the most I have ever seen at any given time.
A curious development in windsurfing that I have never seen before is hydrofoil wind surfing, where the board rises out of the water a few inches and skims the surface creating a much faster ride. There were lots of little sailboats too racing along. Everyone needing to get out of the way whenever a ferry boat comes along.
At Torbole with its multi-coloured pastel buildings we stopped for a gelato at a gelateria which claimed they have new gelato every hour. I learned the best gelato is to be found covered in stainless steel tubs not out on display like one sees most time. These were indeed stainless steel tubs but not kept covered which on one hand was good for selecting a flavour, but on the other hand not keeping the gelato as cold as possible. In all the heat, the gelato melted quickly ... mostly all over Norm, lol. We sat for awhile afterwards and watched all the windsurfing action.
It was nearing 5:00 pm and time to return home. But oh no my phone ran out of battery and oh no I didn’t think to bring a cord. Some people have to learn the hard way. So with no paper map, no GPS, and no phone battery we had to rely on Norm’s inner navigational skills to guide us through the mountains to the edge of Verona and home. While Norm was on edge, I had no doubt he would get us home. All the right decisions which way to go in the web of roads were made and despite never driving this route before Norm got us home ... maybe with frantic nerves (his) but absolutely zero problem.
Dinner was pre arranged and would be out in the garden at 7:30 pm. Such a beautiful setting for a romantic dinner. We started off with a twisty pasta, Strozzapretti … pasta that could strangle a priest they say! Back in the day there was a lot of animosity to priests and their power and control. The pasta was developed as a ‘revenge’. Our pasta was served with such a good fresh light pesto with a touch of lemon. Absolutely fabulous! Next up for me was a plate of baby spinach with creamy fresh burrata! So very good! For Norm he had Bresaola, dried salted beef. Looking like raw beef it was not what he is used to but found it very tasty. For dessert we had ice cream balls … rolled in pistachios for Norm and cocoa for me. After such a long drive today we appreciated a romantic dinner out on the grass surrounded by nature!
Right: A chocolate and cherry combo gelato that was melting fast and a little messy!
Below: A special kind of windsurfing ... hydro wind surfing … super fast.
June 11 - Verona (Agriturismo Tenuta Delo)
"Different Worlds Connect ... Delos ... Where the Romans and Greeks Connect"
When you stay at an Agriturismo where the land is still worked it is not unexpected to wake up to loud farm equipment, clanging and banging. In this case, sprayers were treating the grapevines at 7:30 am, followed by the ‘manicurist’ machines that chop off floppy top growth of the vines. Oh well, it’s moving day so an early start is not a bad thing.
For our last stop we will be headed up into the Dolomites, Italy’s highest mountains. It will be interesting to see how much the weather cools. A high of 30 degrees is expected here today and a low of 21. What will it be in the mountains?
With Norm’s still very sore back making it even harder to get around we ditched any thought we might have had about going into Verona’s historical centre. Apparently it is very beautiful and full of history especially as the setting for Shakespeare’s Romeo and Juliet. Instead we had a day of just enjoying the Delos property, sitting in the shade, doing a little blogging and for me watching bees pollinate the jasmine flowers, lol. Hector told us about a laurel tree on the property that its roots go back an immeasurable time. The ‘new sprouts’, now trees themselves, are growing from the original tree roots deep in the ground.
Actually the ‘Delos’ property got its name from the laurel tree and its connection with the Greek Island of Delos. As Apollo, a Greek mythological god, was born on the island of Delos and used branches of a laurel tree wound in a wreath shape that adorned his head like a crown.
Hector, (‘Ettore’ in Italian), our Agriturismo host is quite the character … full of stories and heartfelt love. It is clear how much he adores the Delos estate. He wears many hats as he says. At 74 and as a semi-retired heart specialist he is a very busy man who also runs Delos and their wine production with the help of his wife Antonia and their staff. We also got to know his son Alberto who we also chatted quite a bit with. Alberto, an engineer trained marble production specialist, also shares a special passion for Delos and helps out as much as he can. In the end we met the whole delightful family after meeting the daughter too.
We enjoyed the warm sunshine and sitting in the shade underneath the umbrellas on the lawn. And it seemed in no time at all we needed to head out to dinner back to the village of Mizzole. Le Piere Martini di Paolo was not quite as busy as a few nights ago but busy enough. Our waitress Elena, now chef for the night, recognized us from the previous visit and brought over her sister to introduce us to. Everyone was in a festive move as it was Elena’s birthday. We ordered a delicious glass of Prosecco. Once again the beautiful blue winged bees showed up seeking nectar from the flowers of the caper plant. Once again I could not get a good photo. For dinner I ordered a porcini fungi tagiatelle … good but Norm’s veggie plate was to be the clear winner of the evening at least according to me.
We returned home, once again the long way around, as the shortest route not likely the best for a small rental car especially at night. We returned to our home away from home to our beautiful antique filled room with the wind gently blowing trough the gauze curtains … and no need for air conditioning. A beautiful stay!
Norm and Alberto, deep in conversation.
June 12 - Verona to Domegge di Cadore (Rossodisera B&B)
"If It's A 'Snack' ... Then Why Am I So Full"
Cuckoo! Cuckoo! Such a pretty sound to wake up to! I look out my window and I see the beautiful majestic Italian Alps looming large. I see towering evergreen trees all around me. I can smell the clean fresh alpine air and feel the gentle breeze blowing my hair around a little. So refreshing! Surprisingly it’s warm here … its nearing 12 o’clock and already 29 degrees with a lovely gentle wind.
We loved our stay at Agriturismo Tenuta Delo meeting all but one of the family until at breakfast Ludovica, Hector’s daughter, dropped by to introduce herself. When Norm mentioned we were missing our treasured wine stopper she suggested that she check the kitchen just in case we left it at dinner… and it was there! As we often do not finish a bottle of wine we always carry it with us and believe it keeps the wine fresher that way for another time.
Also at breakfast were a lovely couple Marco and Katia, from Switzerland who shared with us the romantic story how they met. Katia is a singer/pianist originally from Cuba but lived and worked on the island of Kos for 20 years. They met in a hotel bar where she was the pianist and the rest is history. Married for 9 years she is trying very hard to learn German to meet the requirements for citizenship so she may no longer travel on a Cuban passport. Even though her English was pretty much ‘nada’ as is my Spanish we were still able to communicate one way or another.
While the breakfast food at Delos will never be my favourite, meeting guests and learning a little bit about their life stories and experiences brings so much more to the ‘breakfast table’ than actual food itself. Also at breakfast on another morning was a Ukrainian family who spoke little English but enough to share a special heartfelt moment with.
We said a final goodbye to Hector and then off we headed to the Dolomites. Travelling the major highway we zipped along through a boring flat, more industrial landscape. We thought if we veered off to some secondary roads we might have more rural scenery. This ended up being a frustrating experience and not worthwhile at all in this case. But our road trip did take us to the cheese town of Asiago where the scenery all started to change and finally become more alpine like. However our final destination proved to be a longer drive than expected.
We did take the time for a gelato stop along the way. By now we were pretty hungry and definitely tired. Incidentally, we are finding the gelato more like icecream here in northern Italy, and less intensely flavoured. But still no real complaints, as even creamy ice cream seems to make the world a better place.
Finally we arrive at Rossodisera, in the mountain small town of Domegge di Cadore. It’s a large alpine-like chalet almost 200 years old. Anna and Arizona, the family dog, meet us at the gate. Our room, actually is three rooms so is one large long space. The bedroom is all wood even the ceiling. There is another bedroom Norm is using as his 'office'. And the bathroom very modern equipped with a rainfall shower.
We pre-arranged a bite to eat or as Anna calls it 'a snack' as we felt it would be good not to have to go out to dinner. It was a lovely warm night with beautiful mountain views as we sat on the picnic table and waited for our 'snack'. It turned out to be more like a feast! All for 40 euros including wine and we could have invited others to share there was so much food. There were mountain breads, cheeses, meats, a yogurt dip, etc … so much food!
We struck up a conversation with Vera, from Germany, as I asked her if her sweet dog was a doodle mx. Indeed her friendly and charming dog Emmie was. Before long we invited her over for a glass of wine while we shared travel stories. She and her hubbie had been to Sri Lanka back in February and we were interested in knowing more about their ‘home stay’ experience.
We often meet the nicest people staying at our accommodations. Lovely Rossodisera was no exception!
June 13 - Domegge di Cadore (Rossodisera) with a drive in the mountains
"Looking At The Beautiful Mountainscape Without Cadore-Made Rose Coloured Glasses"
It’s a gorgeous morning here in Domegge di Cadore, sunny and currently 14 degrees with a high of 30 expected. The Cuckoo birds were calling out even in the early morning darkness as I stirred from my restful sleep. I sure will miss them upon our return home.
Breakfast at Rossodisera is superb. Always a choice of delicious homemade mountain bread, Anna’s jams, then the choice of three homemade cakes … a slice of strawberry sponge cake and a slice of ‘Basque-type cheesecake’ were my morning selections. Anna also prepares eggs however you would like them. Then there is juice and unlimited coffee awaiting at the breakfast table. Today we say goodbye to Vera and her husband Frank and meet the newbies Sandra and Philipp, hikers from Switzerland. They have actually stayed at Rossodisera many times as they enjoy the hiking in this area. We seem to have met a lot more tourists from Switzerland on this trip than ever before.
Although we won’t be hiking as Norm’s knees and now his back would never forgive him, we do take a daily road trip to explore the surrounding mountain area further. The drives never disappoint. On this drive we inch closer to Austria only about 35 kms away. The relatively short route took us longer than planned but was a nice drive through mountainous scenery and clean alpine air.
For dinner we chose one of the two restaurants Anna had recommended, Boton D’Oro. Boton D’Oro is a rather upscale eclectic restaurant. I was very puzzled by its obviously curated decor … like shelves devoted to sunglasses and glasses of various styles. Little did I know at the time is that this area is famous for eye wear industry and supports many factories big and small. When you know this fact you start seeing these factories almost everywhere in the surrounding towns.
I was determined to eat a lighter supper and chose an eggplant parmigiana appetizer as my main course. Artistically presented and delicious, accompanied by rustic bread and homemade butter, I ate it all. Yup, the whole thing! Norm enjoyed a venison dish with a blueberry reduction. He impressively always finishes his meals. We couldn’t resist the tasty Apple Strudel for dessert as we hadn’t yet seen it on a menu. Coincidentally Anna made an even better apple strudel for breakfast the next day!
It was an easy fifteen minute drive back to our place. Although we might have wished to enjoy some outdoor evening time, the mountain air had a bit of a chill to it so we headed inside. We still have a bottle of Prosecco to drink … but that will have to wait to another time. Sweet dreams await tucked away in our alpine chalet.
Breakfast at Rossodisera is superb. Always a choice of delicious homemade mountain bread, Anna’s jams, then the choice of three homemade cakes … a slice of strawberry sponge cake and a slice of ‘Basque-type cheesecake’ were my morning selections. Anna also prepares eggs however you would like them. Then there is juice and unlimited coffee awaiting at the breakfast table. Today we say goodbye to Vera and her husband Frank and meet the newbies Sandra and Philipp, hikers from Switzerland. They have actually stayed at Rossodisera many times as they enjoy the hiking in this area. We seem to have met a lot more tourists from Switzerland on this trip than ever before.
Although we won’t be hiking as Norm’s knees and now his back would never forgive him, we do take a daily road trip to explore the surrounding mountain area further. The drives never disappoint. On this drive we inch closer to Austria only about 35 kms away. The relatively short route took us longer than planned but was a nice drive through mountainous scenery and clean alpine air.
For dinner we chose one of the two restaurants Anna had recommended, Boton D’Oro. Boton D’Oro is a rather upscale eclectic restaurant. I was very puzzled by its obviously curated decor … like shelves devoted to sunglasses and glasses of various styles. Little did I know at the time is that this area is famous for eye wear industry and supports many factories big and small. When you know this fact you start seeing these factories almost everywhere in the surrounding towns.
I was determined to eat a lighter supper and chose an eggplant parmigiana appetizer as my main course. Artistically presented and delicious, accompanied by rustic bread and homemade butter, I ate it all. Yup, the whole thing! Norm enjoyed a venison dish with a blueberry reduction. He impressively always finishes his meals. We couldn’t resist the tasty Apple Strudel for dessert as we hadn’t yet seen it on a menu. Coincidentally Anna made an even better apple strudel for breakfast the next day!
It was an easy fifteen minute drive back to our place. Although we might have wished to enjoy some outdoor evening time, the mountain air had a bit of a chill to it so we headed inside. We still have a bottle of Prosecco to drink … but that will have to wait to another time. Sweet dreams await tucked away in our alpine chalet.
June 14 - Domegge di Cadore (Rossodisera) with another mountain drive
"The Cloud Plume Barrelling Down The Mountain Like A Frantic Bobsled in a Race"
Staring up at our pine wooden ceiling in our Italian alpine chalet house is such a dream! I can hear people already at breakfast. I hope there is still some cakes left by the time we head downstairs to breakfast, lol! Not to worry every morning there has been three choices so far. A delicious plain cheesecake - Basque style with a dark almost burnt top, a strawberry sponge cake and yesterday a new addition apple strudel. All homemade. The bread here is also excellent, best on the trip, and varied. The coffee strong and plentiful. It’s 19 degrees at 8:00 am and looks so promisingly sunny. But like yesterday what you see now may not be what you get later. A high of 28 degrees is expected today but clouds and rain showers may move in.
We decide to leave earlier today for a drive. This drive will be through the mountains once again but in a different direction.
This drive was my very favourite. Gorgeous mountain views with snow on several of the mountain peaks, meadows of beautiful flowers and a true alpine meadow above the treeline with the bluest of blue gentian flowers. There were big cows with clanging brass bells and even a few beautiful horses and their foals. Heidi would love it here!
We’re on the way home just past the skiing town of Cortina d’Ampezzo when I spot a strange dark cloud lurking up the mountain. A second later I realize this swirling cloud in different shades of grey is actually moving very fast and point it out to Norm. We both say, that’s no cloud!!! Now what do we do? We pull over and watch it barrel down the mountain headed for the highway. A land slide! The air by now is thick and the windshield is getting very messy with grit and fine debris. We are not alone, with just a few cars ahead of us and a growing line up behind us. There are no police or other officials to guide us. We could see some people turning back … which unless there was imminent danger or a road closure was not a great choice for us. A few motorcycles moved forward towards the slide and didn’t return. We waited until we saw other cars coming through in the opposite direction before we decided it was likely safe. A wee bit scary event! But no doubt a relatively common event in these areas.
For dinner we choose to go to a restaurant up the mountain about 15 minutes away. Now it is Saturday night but in such an isolated location we didn’t feel the need to make a reservation. However it was a little cold outside so although we wanted to sit inside all the smaller tables were filled. The waitress who spoke no English offered me a seat at a very long table set for 12 people. I refused thinking I might be crashing a dinner party. So we sat outside in the cold. Now I found out later that the long table was just for random people with no reservation.
But there was a good reason for us being outside. That is where we met fun, boisterous Luca and his girlfriend Frederica at the next table over. Luca spoke great English while his girlfriend understood everything that was said but just wasn’t able to speak as fluently as she wished to. No problem at all, a good time was had by all I would say.
The menu was quite limited for me but the pasta dish I chose was absolutely excellent and different. Pizzocheri ... it was a short tagliatelle-type pasta with potatoes, herbs, poppyseeds, cheese and loads of spinach. I ate it all, against my better judgement. Then I decided this was the place for one last Tiramisu. The Tiramisu was very heavy and dense with a lot of thick marscapone cheese and for that reason it was my least favourite. But still, like chocolate, how can you go wrong even if it’s not the best chocolate? After all Tiramisu is Tiramisu, in all its creamy goodness glory.
In the darkness we thread our way back home so happy we decided to come to the Dolomites. Now adding encountering a landslide to our list of natures scary events that we have encountered … such as a medicane in Karpathos and an earthquake in Kefalonia. One might think that nightmares might follow, but tucked away in my quaint antique comfortable bed with a painted headboard, I slept like a baby.
The Gentian flowers were blooming in my favourite place! The bluest of blue.
Norm on one of his many stops to photo flowers! It makes me so happy he enjoys my love of flowers too!
The sinister ‘cloud’ really a landslide.
June 15 - Domegge di Cadore (Rossodisera) with another mountain drive
"Last For Now"
Last day! A day of ‘lasts for now’. The clouds are hiding the mountains as they pass through the valley, playing peek-a-boo as they move along. Still the temperature will be warm and perhaps the skies will clear.
I have my eyes on this strawberry almond tart at breakfast … no one has yet taken a slice … someone has to be first. And it was absolutely as good as it looked. Anna said in her very broken English it was her first time making this particular dessert. She was so pleased it went over so well!
It was wonderful having a second room in which to organize and pack for home. But that heavy bottle of Prosecco must be drunk today! Yet, still we didn’t want to waste a minute as there were still some more ‘lasts’ we had to accomplish! Like the ‘last drive for now’.
There was no way to compete with the drive from yesterday so we headed out in the direction of Tre Cime National Park. We wouldn’t actually be driving through the park, just in the vicinity. Due to the crowds of people in peak season parking is very restricted and even before nearing the park we could already see restrictions. This year parking and toll road fee is apparently 40 euros per car and I believe must be booked online ahead of time. We could see already that this area was busier.
The drive was pretty with beautiful mountain views, and lovely roadside wildflowers. Although it was hard to turn around and tear away from these gorgeous vistas, we knew it was best as we still had some more ‘lasts’ to accomplish.
We drove by the town of Auronzo for one ‘last’ lake view. The colour of the blue green water so vibrant and special. Once again, there was no one swimming although there was a young couple thinking about it as they lingered on the edge wearing bathing suits. I expect the water was very cold despite the very warm air temperature into the 30s once again.
In Auronzo we also sought out our ‘last’ gelato and this time we even had a shaded outdoor area with a table and chairs to enjoy the ice-cream before it melted in the heat.
I chose a chocolate and strawberry gelato while Norm went with his favourite combo of chocolate and cherry. Once again the gelato was very creamy … unlike many of the gelatos we have had further south on other trips. Still very refreshing, and tasty!
We arrive back home, stopping to smell one ‘last’ rose up our steep road to Rossidisera B&B. The roses on this trip have been absolutely stunning. All the heat and the occasional shower keeping them looking their best and smelling so sweetly.
An early supper would be in order. What better to have than one ‘last’ pizza. We chose the closest pizzeria which also happens to be the oldest building in our town, Domegge di Cadore. The building dating back to the 1300s! The inside was large, rather old fashioned looking with arches spanning the restaurant and it was fairly busy. As I only wanted to eat two slices we decided to share a pizza. Looking around no one ever seems to share a pizza … ever! I don’t know how they do it … those pizzas may be thin crusted but large! The pizza was good enough but not ‘divine’ as served up in ‘Pizzeria Cabo’ in Gergei, Sardinia. Few pizzas will ever match that experience! Of course this time we ate every last scrap.
We headed home for our ‘last for now’ bottle of bubbly Prosecco that was well chilled after days of being in the fridge. So delicious! What a fantastic trip it has been, leaving us with so many ‘lasting’ Italian memories!
On the right our pizzeria, the building dating back to 1360!
And below our ‘last’ pizza to share.
On the left the ‘last for now’ big bottle of Prosecco. It went down so nicely!
Below: No matter how busy the day is, or how tired I might be … I always take time to smell the roses.
