Welcome to 'Life in a Hammock', a capture of Gayle's daily 'real time' eBlogs of our travels.
Shorter than our Travel Blog but more literary with somewhat of a different perspective.
to Villamanrique de la Condessa (Ardea Purpurea)
"First Day in Spain ... Just Ducky!"
We slept in until near 10:00 am before dashing off to breakfast. Fortunately at our hotel breakfast is served until 11:00 am. Some mornings even more than others I appreciate a really good cup of coffee. And this one did not disappoint. It was extra delicious! There certainly was quite a lot to choose from especially for meat eaters. The orange juice couldn’t be fresher as you did it yourself. A little bird hung around the restaurant rafters looking for a fallen crumb on the floor as all food ‘stations’ were covered. It seemed perfect … a reminder that we are well out in the country!
What a relaxing place it is here! Very country! Each little cottage with its thatched roof, and the ‘great room’ in the Lodge with its large sculpture of different flying birds are true reminders. A beautiful rustic comfortable hotel.
Mommy duck and her 11 strong brood walk around everywhere, sometimes right up to our cottage. Like she is proudly showing them off to us! She is teaching them how to swim in the swimming pool! It’s so adorable. The pool although technically ‘open’ would not really be usable as it definitely feels more like Springtime.
Travel yesterday presented a few challenges … a flight cancellation being one of them. But thanks to Norm’s quick actions in getting our tickets for the next flight out of Halifax we were still able to make our connections with even some lounge time in Montreal. Nothing like a glass or two of Prosecco to toast the upcoming trip! Fortunately, a large Dreamliner plane with space was awaiting. Our new seats were even together! The flight was with ‘regular’ seats … and seemed roomy enough … no complaints this time.
Oh but the line up for immigration upon arrival … a bit of a nightmare. Hundreds and hundreds of people in line waiting … so very many people. It took close to an hour and a half before we snaked through the lineup and got the official ‘Welcome to Portugal’. Now we did learn an important lesson … there is a possibility that if Norm had worn his knee braces we maybe could have gone through a special line thus cutting the time spent. It was definitely hard on the knees standing that long for Norm.
Now with a shortened time before catching our next flight to Seville, we decided not to find and then try to enter the Dragon Pass Lounge. The flight to Seville was about 50 minutes long and uneventful. We arrived in clouds, but by the time we rented a car and hit the road the sun was valiantly shining and the clouds had all but disappeared.
Our almost brand new car is a good one it seems. With a comfortable ride and Norm’s navigational skills we arrived with no problems about 40 minutes later
Our hotel, Ardea Purpurea Lodge, is just perfect for us. A world away from the big city lights and sounds of Seville to more than quiet countryside with dark starlit nights. It wasn’t long before it was time to go to dinner at 8:00 pm. We ordered the mushroom risotto for two and for Norm a ‘half’ portion of Iberico ham. The risotto portion was so large we couldn’t finish it but it was sure delicious! So creamy with lots of Boletes mushrooms and fresh Parmesan too! Norm’s plate of thinly sliced ham was plentiful for one person. A wonderful beginning to our Spanish trip!
A quick walk back to our thatched ‘cottage’ and before we could even say goodnight we both had fallen asleep in our comfy king sized bed. So very quiet, so serene!



Other residents using our swimming pool. Swimming lessons available.



To the left the towering bird sculpture.
Below breakfast.

"The Storks Deliver Spring in Andalusia"
Hopefully today we will take another drive to see what we can see. But first a walk enjoying the few moments of warm sunshine that have just appeared.
After a totally do nothing day I suggested we go for a late drive just before dinner. There seemed to be a short break in the weather so at 7:00 pm off we went. We popped into the nearest town Villamanrique de la Condesa, an attractive typical Andalusian town with its white houses and wrought iron balconies. An older man walked by and blew me a kiss … like Spain in days long gone by. Norm missed it … but for that moment I felt young again, lol.
On the outskirts of town were towering palms, orange and olive groves, and lots of occupied stork nests. No tourists seen, just us.
By now it was 8:30 pm and the sun was setting and the once somber sky was now glowing golden. Time to head home for dinner. In typical Spanish style we arrived after 9:00 pm. Although I had already planned out my dinner choice I did a sudden switch as I felt quite hungry. I started with a delicious cold creamy tomato soup and then moved on to scrambled eggs with mushrooms and caramelized onions. Clearly the most delicious way to enjoy scrambled eggs. Scrambled eggs often appear on Spanish menus at dinner interestingly enough. Norm raved about his lamb plate accompanied by beets and a large potato croquette stuffed with an over sized mushroom. We both were too full for dessert, maybe tomorrow.
As the soft drizzle once again fell, we headed back to our thatched roof cottage enjoying the complete silence of the night. No noise at all except for the clicking of our shoes on the slick wet cobblestones.
Proud Mommy duck parades past our house each morning.









April 04, 2024 - Villamanrique de la Condessa (Ardea Purpurea)
"... Am I Really in Spain?"
10:00 am … One advantage of a thatched roof is the pounding rain is muffled. Yes indeed it is raining again, more than ever.
12:00 pm ... Every once in awhile the sun pokes out as if to tease us, but the weather forecast presents a much bleaker scenario. The rain has diminished for now.
I’m so grateful for my very last minute throw in’s … a fleece jacket, an extra pair of pants and another long sleeved shirt. The down jacket may also be very useful too if eating outside. We have had mixed weather at this time in Andalusia … thinking back on past trips from a sweltering 36 degrees in sunny Sevilla to now, a chilly 15 degrees with rain and a few claps of thunder.
The king sized bed with its many blankets is the only place to stay warm, lol! Am I really in Spain?
So yesterday we took a drive to the coast just for curiosity. But on the way just outside of our town we stopped to look at the ‘stork condominiums’. The ‘landlord stork’ stood boldly at the top lording over the now seemingly empty nests. Perhaps minding the not visible chicks? The stork condominiums - an interesting nest structure created out of a dead tree with several available nests.
The drive was all in all less than 200 kms and took us past the various entrances to the expansive national park, Donana, home to many wetland birds and the endangered Iberian Lynx. There are signs in many places where they have created corridors for ‘safer’ wildlife travels with gaps in the fencing and speed limits are theoretically reduced. We stopped at Parador de Mazagón, to see what we were missing. Nice property but a little dated it seemed, without actually taking a full tour.
Clearly this area expected to see multitudes of tourists in its peak summer season. Although the long stretches of beach seemed lonely and empty as the large waves crashed upon the shoreline, all would be different in summer.
Generally somewhat disappointed with our drive we headed home. Glad we checked out the coast though.
Back to our hotel for a 8:45 pm dinner, all was quiet until about 9:30 pm when a family with cute but rowdy 2 to 3 year old identical triplet boys appeared. It was chaos and not fun for anyone … except maybe the triplets, lol. They ran around trying to ‘escape’, banged on pots, screamed, hollered and laughed all at the same time. Funny now though, as I’m thinking about it. This restaurant prides itself on being in Michelin guides time after time. But when Norm told me they were changing one of the boy’s diaper on the table, I practically lost my appetite. Really? Honestly I couldn’t believe it! I’d far rather eat with the more civilized 3 Bernese Mountain dogs and their people, as we experienced the one and only time we dined in a Michelin starred restaurant in France!
Luckily by this time I was almost finished my main course. We started off with a good appetizer board consisting of various types of croquette balls. Then on to my mango avocado salad that was certainly very pretty … its taste though just ok. Norm had a very large octopus tentical which he said was ok too but he much preferred the lamb dish the night previously. Dessert was in our minds supposed to be a cake … but was presented in parfait style in a glass. Quite delicious though!
By now it was 10:30 pm and we left the restaurant madhouse behind and headed for the serenity of our thatched roof cottage. It was not long before we drifted off to a sound sleep.
Condos available at the Stork Condominium Complex. A beautiful Spring scene.




Croquettes of different types, mine were mushroom.



April 05, 2024 - Villamanrique de la Condessa (Ardea Purpurea)
"Sometimes Things are Not What They Seem to Be"
Moving day. On to Cadiz. We hear there have been some road washouts but not the main highway. We must repack accordingly. Some things will be left behind in the trunk as our car will be in a parking lot as there is no direct parking at our new place.
We took another road trip yesterday into a different part of Donana National Park. Isla Major was our final destination, located in the middle of all the nature and parkland that surrounds us. Or so we thought. But first we had to get there, our efforts already thwarted by a flooded road. Now in Costa Rica in a 4wd this would have been par for the course but in our small rental car it was a no go. On the other side was a car with the hood up and people standing around. Did it try and not succeed? Likely. Luckily we quickly connected with a Spanish fellow who was also going to Isla Major. We followed him through endless backroads packed with nature but because we were tailing him we dared not stop.
Isla Major turned out to be completely unexpected … more of an industrial town whose main industry was rice growing and processing. Just like their ancestors did before them. Not the woodsy duck haven I imagined in my mind. I should have researched more, lol!
Home again now with only a little time before our 8:45 pm dinner reservation. Reservations here are very important it seems even though every night there is lots of space. It is the first question that is asked, “Do you have a reservation?” What if the answer is no … but I do not dare not have one!
I had hoped to order Risotto con Boletes again IF I could order only one portion instead of the required two. But that was not to be, so I ordered my second choice … a green salad with Parmesan crisps, cherry tomatoes and pineapple. A good vegetarian choice I thought. But when it came it also came with slices of dried ham (not on the menu, lol). Although the waiter offered to return it to the kitchen I whisked off the ham which made Norm an even happier man! Not that he needed more ham. Norm started with a plate of Iberico jamon which he demolished quickly, followed by grilled pork shoulder on top of Migas (spiced toasted bread crumbs) which he said was very tasty. My salad by the way was absolutely delicious and creative. It also included cheese and pumpkin seeds with a very tasty dressing. A scoop of ‘chocolat helados’ was the perfect dessert to share to finish off the meal.
We dodged the rain showers on our walk home. Impossible to dampen our spirits though. Maybe tomorrow will be the day the sun shines, was my final thought of the day.
We dodged the rain showers on our walk home. Impossible to dampen our spirits though. Maybe tomorrow will be the day the sun shines, was my final thought of the day.








Left: My artistic delicious salad.
Below: Helados, aka ice cream the perfect finish.

April 06, 2024 - Villamanrique de la Condessa to Cadiz (La Casa del Consul)
"A Break in the Bleak Weather"
Although Sunday morning’s sunrise looked hopeful, the clouds have now moved in and the sky is somewhat grey. But in a typical ‘Maritime Med’ climate I suspect that can quickly change. We will have to search out breakfast as our place, La Casa del Consul does not currently offer breakfast.
Our place is wonderfully eclectic especially in the common areas. Our room on the first floor is bright and beautiful, painted white with very high ceilings, long floor to ceiling windows and a modern 4 poster bed. It even has a little kitchen. But the real design details come out in the bathroom with its choice of a spectrum of colour in mood lighting and a Japanese toilet that is just something else! It does everything except play music, lol! A bidet and a toilet combined together with a remote controller. Who knew the bathroom could be such a fun place, lol?
Yesterday morning back in the country at Ardea de Purpurea Lodge, the sun finally poked out. So nice to sit outside to feel a little warmth. Momma duck paraded by our cottage once again with her brood, the chicks getting braver each day in their roaming around. Such a beautiful place … but after breakfast it was time to say goodbye and move on to Cadiz. Breakfast was the only weak spot at Ardea … about a 6 out of 10 … but there was excellent coffee and fresh squeeze-it-yourself orange juice, so that was a win.
The 2 hour drive that stretched to 3 with all our photo stops took us through flat plains of olive trees and oranges to a somewhat hilly green landscape until we hit the coast and the City of Cadiz. We easily found our way into the city and with a little luck found our outdoor parking lot and then our hotel easily.
Since we arrived a half hour early for our 5 o’clock checkin we sat on a bench in an adjacent park enjoying a few rays of sunshine. We struck up a conversation with a fellow Canadian as he randomly walked by our park bench. Turns out ‘Paul’ was born and raised in Halifax before eventually moving to Ontario.
A half hour whizzed by and soon it was time to check in. Eric, the host, then spent an hour and a half just chatting with us and explaining a few things. La Casa del Consul is like a combination of an Air B&B and a hotel with limited services.
Fortunately there was a restaurant just meters away from ‘Consul’. With a bottle of Spanish wine and an iron pan full of tasty rice and a lamb shank, Norm couldn’t have been happier. I had a lightly fried cauliflower dish deliciously spiced for my main course. We met a couple from New Mexico at the table next to us who were in the process of house hunting here to get out of the US. We both talked about how hard that would be at our age.
Speaking of meeting people … Eric, our hotel host, mentioned there were other Canadian guests staying at our place from the same area. Not only were they from the same area … they were from the neighbourhood! One couple from Montebello, the other couple from Keystone. Isn’t that crazy???
And now as I finish the blog the sun is shining and the parrots are singing! Yes indeed we have those adorable chattering little green parrots!









Right: a happy man.
Below: cauliflower … much tastier than it may look.


April 07, 2024 - Cadiz (La Casa del Consul)
"Cadiz ... Sunshine, Palm Trees and Parrots"
Cadiz is so far the hot spot on this trip. 17 degrees and cloudy now at 9:00 am; a high of 20 degrees and some sun is expected later today. We will be off shortly to find a spot for breakfast and then a walk to the market and another area of Cadiz.
It was nice to enjoy some sun yesterday. Since there is no breakfast here we head out about 10:30 am to find a place. We randomly pick a street and walk to find a place open. Cadiz is perhaps surprisingly quite an attractive city with its old baroque architecture, many green plaza parks and glimpses of the turquoise sea in the distance. After about 15 minutes we stumble across a popular breakfast place, ‘Mediterraneo’. Norm orders a serrano ham sandwich and I order an omelet which actually is served in a bun like a sandwich. It was lovely sitting outside enjoying our coffee and not being cold.
Full to the brim, we head back to our room. We have a full list of things we could do … but after a little relax time Cava and the upstairs terrace was calling our name. Who were we to refuse Cava time? A gift from our host Eric. Not long after our ‘from the neighbourhood’ guests also were also seeking some sun. Not warm enough for a dip in the pool but beautiful to sit out in the cushioned dory. We wondered how much work that must have been to get an old boat frame up to the roof.
For dinner we had reservations at Balandro with seating at the bar. The bar seemed much more popular than being seated at the adjacent tables with their starched white tablecloths and pretty dishes. We wondered if we all ate from the same menu at the same prices. Our menu had a multitude of appealing small tapas style plates, some with an Asian fusion twist. I chose an Asian tempura vegetable dish and a Spanish stew of chickpeas and spinach. Very good! Norm enjoyed a pork ravioli plate and a seafood rice dish that although tasty was lacking the actual visible seafood. Overall we were pleased with the restaurant.
It was nice to have a bit of a walk home to let all the food settle. The streets and alleys are brightly lit in this neighbourhood and very pleasant to walk about at night. Tomorrow we will explore this beautiful city further. So glad we finally came here.




The fortress walls and turquoise sea. Cava on the terrace.


April 08, 2024 - Cadiz (La Casa del Consul)
"The Trumpets are Blasting Birthday Greetings"
🎺🎺🎺 The birthday trumpets are tooting, Happy 71st Birthday Norm. 🎺🎺🎺 And the sun is shining brightly with an expected high of 23! ☀️ Now that’s more like the Spain we know and love! However, for us, it’s moving day and the temperatures are likely about to dip. If only we could keep the sunny skies!
Later this morning we are headed for Gaucin, a white village mountain town near Ronda about a 2 hour drive from here. Our plan is to skip breakfast and maybe grab a bite to eat somewhere along the way. Breakfast isn’t really a thing here in Spain … its grab a coffee and a roll and off you go until you eat again. There are few and far between options for getting even that in our area of Cadiz. After all lunch is traditionally the biggest meal in Spain. And although Cadiz receives many Spanish tourists overall it is not a highly foreign touristed city.
Yesterday we found a cute little busy cafe for breakfast about 15 minutes or so from our casa. Breakfast was a cheese sandwich for me and a ham sandwich for Norm. Also we couldn’t resist the Minorican style spiral pastry sprinkled with icing sugar. Great strong coffee too!
Then on to the Central Market to see what we could see. However being Monday there were few vendors. There was however impromptu music along the way which we stopped to listen to. Flamenco, electric guitar playing Dire straights and a young Spanish singer accompanied by acoustic guitar. Sitting in the shade of a very interesting tree with ropes hanging like Rastafarian dreadlocks listening to Spanish songs was so relaxing. These ‘rope braids’ are actually called ‘prop roots’ of the Indian Laurel tree, a type of banyan/ficus tree. The ‘Sloths on Vacation’ had indeed found their own special tree for a rest.
Back home we headed to the terrace to finish off leftover wine and cava, and soak up a bit more sunshine. We are so glad we came to Cadiz, not the rough port city we might have imagined.
For dinner we had reservations at La Candela, tucked away on one of the narrow streets and was a bit of a challenge to find. An eclectic place, with artistic table settings, where we immediately felt at home. On our way in the door we noticed the familiar red and white polka dotted sangria bottles of Lolea Sangria that we remember from Barcelona. A delicious light version of Sangria not comparable to Norm’s but still lovely. So of course we had to have a bottle. I ordered a smoked aubergine salad with goat cheese and cashews. Very good! Norm ordered a thinly sliced pork dish that came with little roasted potatoes and thick slices of brioche bread. As my meal was light I had room for dessert, a strawberry mojito sorbet. Turned out to be a liquid dessert, that I know you would love Linda. Sour yet smooth, minty, with lots of pucker power! And when you finished the liquid goodness, there were a few little fresh red and purple currant berries at the bottom of the glass!
The walk home was much easier and so enjoyable in the warm evening air. We both can’t believe how lucky in life we are to be here in Spain one more time!








April 09, 2024 - Cadiz to Gaucin (La Fructuosa)
"Birthday Bash in Gaucin"
All is so very quiet in our little white mountain village at 9:00 am on Wednesday. Looking out the window I see swallows fly silently from building to building while the occasional rooster calls hauntingly, a dog barks in the distance but for just a minute. All soon becomes still, hushed once again.
As the sun streams in the window at 9:00 am it’s 16 degrees outside with an expected high of 20 degrees.
Our room is very comfortable and pretty. It overlooks the valley from a towering height and offers quite the view! We checked in about 5:00 pm, the French hosts Catherine and Daniel were very pleased that we had arrived on time … as we always do our best to do. But apparently some others do not. We will be very happy here for 3 nights we think!
We learn that Gaucin has a strong ex-pat community or ‘migrants’ as our host calls them but also an active Spanish community. Easter is a big celebration here and will begin on Palm Sunday (this Sunday)… however we will have moved on by then. We also learn that on Tuesday night hardly any restaurants in town are open. Luckily we had asked our hosts to make a reservation and turns out they had snagged the last table of the only restaurant open, La Raiz.
La Raiz turned out to be an excellent choice set on terrace overlooking a small plaza with an impressive fountain. Here I was able to order vegetarian croquettes … both a mushroom version and also a zucchini/spinach combo. Norm had a plate of Iberian ham which was a perfect start for the Birthday Boy. Followed by lamb entrecôte and for dessert an apple crumble with ice cream. For me, I chose a brownie with ice cream. Way too full, we waddled home through the curved cobbled streets.
Now we could have been still in the parking lot in Cadiz with a broken pay machine and thus a barrier that wouldn’t open … stranded with no way out, lol. But that is another story that happened but luckily resolved with a little help from a stranded local.
We had such a great stay in Cadiz it was a little hard to leave. Getting out of the city was easy. But after driving a bit we started to get quite hungry as we had skipped breakfast. We found a little just off the road ‘hole in the wall’ bar to grab a bite to eat. Tapas and coffee for breakfast! A ‘Tortilla de Patatas’ is something I always have when coming to Spain so I was extra pleased to see this possibility here.
The drive took us through rural rolling landscapes with even a glimpse of the turquoise Straight of Gilbralter. Lots of wind surfers were enjoying the warm brisk winds it seemed around Tarifa. Then we climbed the mountain roads until we reached our final destination, Gaucin. A seemingly sleepy town, but with an apparently vibrant restaurant scene.
Although it was a moving day I think Norm really enjoyed his Spanish dinner ‘alfresco’ with a bottle of very good wine and after dinner limoncello and sherry drinks. He was not alone … another friendly young Spanish fellow was there to celebrate his April 8th birthday too! And celebrate they both did! 🥂


Right: With an adjacent sitting area overlooking the valley our room is much larger than the photo of the bed make it appear.
Below: Gaucin







April 10, 2024 - Gaucin (La Fructuosa)
"Gaucin Rambles"
The sun rises late in Spain and so do its people. It’s a cool morning at 13 degrees and 9:00 o’clock. It’s sunny outside currently but will be cooler today at 18 degrees. Gaucin, on its hilltop perch, is known for its views of Gibraltar and Morocco … I must see if that is so as the sky is so clear today.
Yesterday we headed down to breakfast not knowing what to expect. No one else was there at the time but a small feast awaited us. It was perfect. Good coffee, large freshly baked croissant, plain Greek yogurt, a selection of meats and cheeses, fresh fruit, cookies and freshly made egg choices … and I almost forgot … fresh orange juice!
After a long breakfast I took a walk in the village by myself walking past all the densely adjoined white houses and a number of fix-me-uppers awaiting transformation. Most often people speak as you walk by … usually saying informally Hola. Even the kids as they pass. Gaucin is a town of only about 2,000 people but the town itself is much bigger than I might have thought. Later in the afternoon we both explored the upper levels of the town which turned out to be a little difficult for my ‘Senor Senior’s’ knees. But we made it. The rough cobblestones add so much charm but also difficulty in walking. We checked out different restaurant options along the way too. Nice to have choices.
The day just whittled away and before long it was time for dinner. We were told reservations were not necessary at La Fructuosa but luckily we got one of the only 3 tables left. We shared a ‘stuffed spring roll full of a light soft goat cheese topped with a mango jam. Seeing several plates of artichokes stuffed with Spanish ham go by proved too much temptation for Norm and he quickly ordered one more aperitif. For our main courses I chose mushroom risotto, and for Norm duck magret with caramelized apple and red fruit sauce.
Not a long walk back to our room as the restaurant is just below our bed and breakfast. With way to full bellies it was not long before the nightingale called and we fell fast asleep.

To the left the Fructuosa terrace … a little too chilly in both the morning and evening to enjoy a meal.
Below the common terrace above our room. A very sunny spot with views to the sea.

The main road through town. Pots and pots of flowers around town.



Waiting for Norm to join them?


A gorgeous painting in the art gallery.

Village cobblestones. Village fountain. Village Senor Senior.






April 11, 2024 - Gaucin to Ronda (Cortijo Las Piletas)
"A Three Cava Day"
Looking through my window, it’s dense dark puffy clouds that I see. That is most unfortunate as it will be a mountain route that we plan to take today as we move on to our new place out in the country but near Ronda. We will have to see how the weather plays out. It’s about 13 degrees at 9:00 am with spring rain expected.
The locals we met in the bar last night said that it had rained and rained all of March. They explained that after years of severe drought and water shortages, everyone was so happy to see rain but also glad for a recent break in the weather. Now when I say locals they were actually expats from Southern Ireland and England.
After a lazy day doing a little travel planning and blogging, we headed out for one of the restaurants with good reviews. Our reservation was made online but when we got there … surprise! … it wasn’t open. Norm noticed a bar tucked away in an adjacent corner with the same name as the restaurant … Azulete. So in we went thinking it was another possible entrance. The friendly bartender apologized profusely sensing our disappointment … the restaurant was closed today. Only tapas at the bar were a possibility.
The bar seating area was tiny, very intimate … so we thought why not? Just as we finished ordering, in comes a boisterous but jovial group of 7 clearly out to have a great time. At first we wanted to leave as the sound of loud happy voices echoing in our ears was overwhelming in the tiny cramped space. But we stayed and it turned out to be fun.
Sure glad we weren’t American though. America doesn’t have too many friends at the moment. The group seemed very pleased we were not Americans.
Our cheese plate was super interesting and very good with mostly cheeses from the area with two from France. And we chose bread with a delicious homemade Spanish paprika butter. Before too long we too were included in the conversation.
A few glasses of Cava and wine later, we decided to move along and hopefully get a table at our restaurant, La Fructuosa. Luckily it was the end of the evening and there was lots of space. I chose a salad with goat cheese and nuts, while Norm had sweet potato puree and oxtail.
We will leave Gaucin, our beautiful white mountain village, with some very nice memories! And certainly not hungry! Nor thirsty, lol!






April 12, 2024 - Gaucin to Ronda (Cortijo Las Piletas)
"From the Look of Cork Trees to the Sound of Popping Cork and Sight of Wine in my Glass"
If the little birds singing their hearts out could only bring out the sun. But here in usually bone dry Spain, the little birds are probably delighted with the soft rain drops. The grass in Spain is greener than I have ever seen it. We are waking up now at our new accommodations at Cortijo Las Piletas, out in the country … near Ronda, but seemingly worlds away. It would be absolutely wonderful here in hot weather with its expansive property with many outdoor seating areas and beautiful swimming pool. This is the first place ever that gives you a free drink each if you don’t get your room cleaned! Now I’m not saying that is a drink of wine, or a shot of sherry, might be just a Coke. It’s noon now and 13 degrees but feels warmer than yesterday … no wind.
We left La Fructuosa after another wonderful breakfast, walking up to our car at the edge of town before returning to the hotel to retrieve our bags. Got to love that free village parking and the squishy loading zone area to load and unload baggage ... surprisingly the earlier rain had stopped completely by now. This meant that our mountainous route would be now an option rather than the more straight road to Ronda. The curvy road wound through the countryside snaking around mountain passes and farmers fields full of brown cows and wooly sheep and all their sweet babies. Colourful sunshine-yellow gorse decorated the landscape. We could see forests of cork trees half bare as their bark had been recently harvested.
We reached our lovely country farmhouse in partial sunshine. We are impressed. The grounds were sparkling with fallen rain drops but the pool water in the bright sunshine looked so deceivingly inviting! Not only was the air temperature cool though, the water was like an Arctic dip on my fingertips. Yet there were a few brave Dutch (?) people relaxing with sweaters by the pool. The brisk wind probably made it seem even cooler.
For dinner we chose to go to the local restaurant, an easy possible walk away. Only the somewhat noisy bar area was open. In addition to the bar patrons we were not alone as a few other couples were eating there as well. It was not the best venue but it was sure convenient. The menu was quite expansive but of course limited for vegetarians. I ordered hot asparagus soup to start while Norm ordered cold Andalusian gazpacho. Hot soup hit the spot on a cool day but we both preferred his soup overall. The mound of macaroni with tomato sauce that I ordered next could have fed 4 people easily. Certainly a dish to share. Norm enjoyed his lamb chops with fries and a mystery vegetable. We certainly did not leave hungry.
We head back to our comfortable room grateful for the air conditioner that is also a heater!


Left: a 'peeled' cork tree.




Left - an orange tree outside one of the Cortijo's rooms.
Below: the Cortijo's reception, breakfast/lounge area

Right: asparagus soup…broth questionably veggie though.
Below: lamb chops … of course I helped Norm with the fries trying to trade him some of my copious macaroni.


April 13, 2024 - Ronda (Cortijo Las Piletas)
Waking up early this morning to a sky streaked with pink ribbons while the bird choir serenades with their chirpy tunes. It’s about 7:30 am and 10 degrees. Maybe a little rain this afternoon with a high of 17 expected. Perhaps reasonably good weather for the number of hikers enjoying this area.
Today is Palm Sunday and is a big deal in Spain. It is the start of Easter celebrations called Semana Santa. Semana Santa runs from Apr 13 to Apr 20 this year. Unlikely we will see any of the processions going on but apparently every village has one in varying degrees throughout the week. Each city and village throughout Spain has their own unique age old traditions dating back to the 15th or 16th century depending on when the Moors left their strongholds in Spain and Christianity took over. There are ornate often ancient floats and some people in the procession dressed in hooded colourful costumes (see poster in photos). Finding a restaurant open this evening could be a challenge, or maybe a picnic supper is the answer as many restaurants are only open 1:00 to 4:30 for big family get togethers. Today may be even more popular amongst the locals.
There are no meals at our Cortijo except breakfast. However it is quite unique in that an area has been set aside with a fridge full of meats, cheeses and other items like chickpea stew which could be microwaved. There is also bread and fruit for purchase; and of course wine, beer, etc. which is always an option for people who don’t want to go to the very close rustic restaurant nearby or to the next food options are at least 7 km away.
At 10:10 am we were the only ones at breakfast, most everyone else gone for the day. It was a three cake breakfast along with all the usual breakfast items. Although I didn’t go for the eggs marked as 6 minute boiled eggs, thinking that they would likely be too soft my liking. Which turned out to be a good thing as my dinner was topped by an enormous goose egg. Have you ever had a goose egg? Ever even seen it on a menu?
After breakfast I took a walk around the gorgeous property. If only it was just a little warmer and drier. But then again, oh that colour of Spring green of the new grass on the rolling hills and the chartreuse green of fresh emerging leaves on the trees. I was able to sit outside and enjoy the fresh cool air as it warmed up a bit at mid day. So wonderful!
Later in the afternoon we decided to go for a short drive to the nearest villages about 7 kms away. The drive there was absolutely stunning, around huge rock formations and moss covered trees.
We headed back for a short break before it was time to hit the road again. Our destination this time was to Arriate, and tonight’s restaurant El Muelle de Arriate. A 20 minute drive, and about 20 kms away through the back country. Once again Norm’s sense of navigation got us there on time, even though we seemed a bit lost with no road signs to assist. Our restaurant was an old restored train station so Norm followed the train tracks … old school navigation got us there. On the way home we took the highway route.
This wasn’t the first time we visited this restaurant as we had a superb meal there in 2019 driving all the way from Cortijo El Guarda on Hans and Miranda’s recommendation. We loved our meal there and wanted to return this trip. We definitely weren’t disappointed. Frank, the Dutch owner, comes over to each table for very personalized service. I had several choices but decided to go for the potato, asparagus, red pepper dish topped by an enormous goose egg. Very delicious! Norm started with a delicious seafood soup and then moved on to a lamb shank for his main course. Dessert was a white chocolate lemon curd combination. So good!
It was so much fun watching two separate families with very young children and teenagers that came in later than our 8:30 m reservation and finished at about 10:50 pm. Watching the little fellow about a year and a half toddle around with his white shirt and bow tie and later a suit jacket was simply precious. He was most excited about trying the meat and he squealed with delight with every morsel. A true carnivore! All smiles right to the end of the evening. The two teenagers at the same table looked much less impressed until it was photo time. I offered to take their family photo and I think it turned out very well! The other family with 3 month old twins got through the whole evening with hardly a peep.
We headed home so full and with happy memories of a truly fine meal!
"Sure Getting That Spring Feeling"
Today is Palm Sunday and is a big deal in Spain. It is the start of Easter celebrations called Semana Santa. Semana Santa runs from Apr 13 to Apr 20 this year. Unlikely we will see any of the processions going on but apparently every village has one in varying degrees throughout the week. Each city and village throughout Spain has their own unique age old traditions dating back to the 15th or 16th century depending on when the Moors left their strongholds in Spain and Christianity took over. There are ornate often ancient floats and some people in the procession dressed in hooded colourful costumes (see poster in photos). Finding a restaurant open this evening could be a challenge, or maybe a picnic supper is the answer as many restaurants are only open 1:00 to 4:30 for big family get togethers. Today may be even more popular amongst the locals.
There are no meals at our Cortijo except breakfast. However it is quite unique in that an area has been set aside with a fridge full of meats, cheeses and other items like chickpea stew which could be microwaved. There is also bread and fruit for purchase; and of course wine, beer, etc. which is always an option for people who don’t want to go to the very close rustic restaurant nearby or to the next food options are at least 7 km away.
At 10:10 am we were the only ones at breakfast, most everyone else gone for the day. It was a three cake breakfast along with all the usual breakfast items. Although I didn’t go for the eggs marked as 6 minute boiled eggs, thinking that they would likely be too soft my liking. Which turned out to be a good thing as my dinner was topped by an enormous goose egg. Have you ever had a goose egg? Ever even seen it on a menu?
After breakfast I took a walk around the gorgeous property. If only it was just a little warmer and drier. But then again, oh that colour of Spring green of the new grass on the rolling hills and the chartreuse green of fresh emerging leaves on the trees. I was able to sit outside and enjoy the fresh cool air as it warmed up a bit at mid day. So wonderful!
Later in the afternoon we decided to go for a short drive to the nearest villages about 7 kms away. The drive there was absolutely stunning, around huge rock formations and moss covered trees.
We headed back for a short break before it was time to hit the road again. Our destination this time was to Arriate, and tonight’s restaurant El Muelle de Arriate. A 20 minute drive, and about 20 kms away through the back country. Once again Norm’s sense of navigation got us there on time, even though we seemed a bit lost with no road signs to assist. Our restaurant was an old restored train station so Norm followed the train tracks … old school navigation got us there. On the way home we took the highway route.
This wasn’t the first time we visited this restaurant as we had a superb meal there in 2019 driving all the way from Cortijo El Guarda on Hans and Miranda’s recommendation. We loved our meal there and wanted to return this trip. We definitely weren’t disappointed. Frank, the Dutch owner, comes over to each table for very personalized service. I had several choices but decided to go for the potato, asparagus, red pepper dish topped by an enormous goose egg. Very delicious! Norm started with a delicious seafood soup and then moved on to a lamb shank for his main course. Dessert was a white chocolate lemon curd combination. So good!
It was so much fun watching two separate families with very young children and teenagers that came in later than our 8:30 m reservation and finished at about 10:50 pm. Watching the little fellow about a year and a half toddle around with his white shirt and bow tie and later a suit jacket was simply precious. He was most excited about trying the meat and he squealed with delight with every morsel. A true carnivore! All smiles right to the end of the evening. The two teenagers at the same table looked much less impressed until it was photo time. I offered to take their family photo and I think it turned out very well! The other family with 3 month old twins got through the whole evening with hardly a peep.
We headed home so full and with happy memories of a truly fine meal!




Moss covered trees.


One of those very fun fountains that spout water randomly in the nearby village, Montejaque.








April 14, 2024 - Ronda (Cortijo Las Piletas)
"An In Room Picnic"
Monday, Monday … what do you have in store for us? It’s cloudy outside once again, with skies threatening rain and about 13 degrees at 8:00 am. It’s moving day again, leaving this green paradise for the sounds of the city. The relatively untouristed city of Jerez de la Frontera, with its 213,500 people and the home of flamenco will be our destination. But sadly for only one night as that is all we would fit in before we head to Seville to be close to the airport for a morning flight on Wednesday to Lisbon then back to Canada. Staying one night in a city we want to see is something we would hardly ever want to do. Sloths need time to enjoy … and trees … I hope there are beautiful trees like its smaller nearby cousin Cádiz.
This has been a wonderful country stop in an area of natural beauty, that we would love to return to. The weather hasn’t been as good as we might have wished for but it wasn’t really that bad. It seems to be worse in the mornings and clears up a little during the day before returning to clouds in the evening. So yesterday after sitting outside enjoying the lovely sunshine at the Cortijo, we took our window of opportunity in late afternoon to go further a field. Our drive took us past more beautiful green rolling countryside dotted with wildflowers. So very pretty!
For dinner we just stayed in. Norm went ‘supper shopping’ from the groceries available at the Cortijo for our in-room picnic. Too cold to eat outside. Along with some leftover wine we enjoyed cool Gazpacho, chorizo meat for Norm, large chunks of cheese, buns and an artisanal dark chocolate/banana bar and a few free cookies. In addition to the ‘groceries’ for sale we also have a ‘free’ area with coffee, tea and cookies. They pretty much thought of everything.
So while Ronda was supposedly having a long colourful Semana Santa procession from 7:00 pm to 1:00 am we didn’t seek it out. Instead we fell asleep early in the still of the quiet silent evening.
Afternote … we have now arrived in Jerez for a whirlwind time. Not only is Flamenco in store for us we hope, but lots of possible Semana Santa celebrations too! It’s 20 degrees at least, very sunny … and we already have a pretty full schedule. Stay tuned!





To the left the well stocked grocery fridge, only a part of what is available at a reasonable price. Great idea for these way out of the way places.
Below, our picnic supper. Not quite the same as eating outdoors in the sunshine.

April 15, 2024 - Ronda to Jerez de la Frontera (La Gitanilla)
What a whirlwind yesterday was! After breakfast and goodbyes we left the Cortijo. Soft mist was falling at times but nothing too serious. The drive through the green countryside full of rolling hills, orange and olive trees, sometimes flocks of sheep was very pretty but flattened out as we neared Jerez de la Frontera. The sun was now shining and we could feel warmth in the air. "To Jerez for Pomp and Pageantry"
Luckily before I left the Cortijo I had downloaded a map to our city hotel on my phone. I had only used this system briefly once before. Luckily I did because when we arrived in Jerez de la Frontera there were a lot of street closures due to the Semana Santa festivities … and so the paper maps and photo images were virtually useless. We navigated our way quite easily though with its GPS help, thankfully. We arrived at the appointed time at La Gitanilla, our hotel for one night. Disappointingly there was no one there waiting for us. Likely there were messages left for us but with no cell service nor Internet there was no way to contact us. We asked a nearby Cultural Centre to give our host a call, and she described in detail how to retrieve our keys from a locked box. We followed her instructions, and dragged our luggage up the stairs to our ‘penthouse’.
The apartment is quite lovely, certainly comfortable for a number of days. But for us we only have one night here. Virginia, our host showed up about half an hour later and we discussed possible plans. Unfortunately as we found out later, due to Semana Santa being such a big celebration here all the stores and the flamenco venues were on reduced hours. Stores close at 2:00 pm and the flamenco places only had one 2:00 pm performance, no evening performances all week.
We had no idea of the deep significance of this week long holiday until we experienced the crowds ourselves. Among the thousands and thousands of people lining the streets we stuck out as the only apparent foreigners. Surely there were some others but certainly not visible to us. It’s hard to describe the throngs of excited people of all ages happily meeting and greeting others. We happened upon several processions over the course of the late afternoon and evening.
It’s hard to describe the intensity of the moment seeing these hooded 'Ku Klux Klan' type figures on parade carrying long flaming candles and large graphic floats depicting versions of Jesus on the cross. These floats are carried on the shoulders of groups of men like they have been for centuries.
Sometimes the gowns and pointed hats were stark white, others we saw were purple and red. Each church having their own colours as they parade to a central area. Complete with large marching bands it is quite the spectacle. Children dressed in colourful attire pass out candies and perhaps surprising help light candles. These ceremonial parades are huge and move through the streets very slowly cutting off passages even by foot, controlled by barricades and police ultimately. When there are breaks, which sometimes are few and far between, they let people through. There were no cars to be seen. And in a massive swarm we all cross when we can.
The larger processions have seating booths lining the route. We were lucky enough to find an empty one to rest in for much of the processions. By the end with all the walking and standing Norm’s knees were in pretty rough shape necessitating in finding some rest stops on walls or window sills as we navigated the slow walk home. The processions were still going strong when we left.
There would be no supper tonight as we encountered few open bars or restaurants along the way. And for whatever reason didn’t stop at the few we saw. So back home I grab a few random things from the hotel’s snack station, climbed the stairs to our rooftop apartment and that was dinner. By this time being so tired we did not even care. Then the heavy rain started pelting on our roof … so grateful for now being hAn unexpected wonderful experience of such colourful intense pageantry we hadn’t expected to see. Travelling is often full of surprises! And challenges too! We love it all.
We will be off to Sevilla Tuesday for the final stop before the next morning flight and eventually to home on Wednesday.








represent this.

April 16, 2024 - Jerez de la Frontera to Seville (Vertice Hotel)
It’s time to go home. We ended up switching our overnight accommodations to Hotel Vertice in Sevilla to save about $100 Can. During Semana Santa prices are at their maximum. Our junior suite room is very large, comfortable and has a window that opens for a good night’s sleep. It’s was certainly good enough for a quick stop. We did not go out for dinner so relax we did instead. Up early and out early from our hotel, there was no time for breakfast which wasn’t included anyway, so that worked out well. Maybe there will be some lounge time somewhere, or maybe not. When we arrive in Halifax, Bill and Linda will be there to pick us up … thanks guys!!!"And the Sights and Sounds of Flamenco Keep Playing in Our Heads"
Yesterday we had to say goodbye to Jerez after our very abbreviated stop. Perhaps some day we will return when the Flamenco Museum finally opens! It is apparently eighty percent done with an anticipated opening next year. But that is what they said last year.
We are so very fortunate to be able to watch Semana Santa processions in a mostly non touristed city in Spain. It was really very special! Totally by accident, we had no idea. Just at the right place at the right time!
We really hoped to see and hear some flamenco music and dance. But due to Semana Santa, performances were limited to only the 2:00 pm show. We talked with Virginia, our host at our hotel, La Gitanilla. She sent off some messages to hopefully make it happen; our fingers were crossed … and with her connections we were not only able to get in the very small crowded venue but also to get a table … which many people did not. We had no prior reservation as we had originally planned to be leaving for Sevilla much earlier, so we felt very fortunate and grateful!
For the 35 euro each performance we not only got to see a 3 person show … a guitarist, a singer and a dancer … we also got food … many tapas and a bottle of sherry. The venue turned out to be great with a very authentic feel. The whole experience was absolutely wonderful! Many tunes and rhythms are familiar to me having listened to much flamenco music over the years. We both agreed despite a few complexities, like parking and timing, it was a most worthwhile experience.
Had we had more time in Jerez, there would also be random flamenco bars which we could have discovered. Afterall, Jerez is said to be the birthplace of flamenco!
Another trip to Spain has quickly gone by, a short two and half week trip this time. But we got to see another part of Spain that we haven’t been to before. We leave happy in our hearts, with many extraordinary memories of a wonderful over two week trip, all the while passionate flamenco music still plays in our heads. Maybe we will see you next year España!

Left: Breakfast at Gitanella. I especially loved the avocado slices, the sponge cakes plain and chocolate, and the small slices of Spanish tortilla.
Below: Waiting in a park for the flamenco venue to open hoping for tickets! The sunshine was so warm and inviting!


The flamenco venue.









The performers.

