We have been happily anticipating this day for awhile now as we look out on a snow covered land. Costa Rica here we come!
Since the Halifax airport lounge is closed no need to get there early. Bill and Linda offered to take us to the airport and with no weather issues we looked forward to an easy flight ahead to Toronto.
In Toronto we had about 3 hours to spare, lots of lounge time … and with a few glasses of bubbly and bowls of the most delicious Thai coconut soup, the time passed quickly. But unfortunately as we arrived at the gate we learned our boarding time would be delayed 1 1/2 hours until 9:00 pm as there was a mechanical issue. But we had comfortable seats while we waited so there was much to be grateful for. We finally boarded at 9:00 pm but then were awhile before we were airborne.
We arrived in San Jose at 1:35 am, and luckily cleared immigration in a special line thanks to Norm’s eagle opportunistic eyes. We easily found a taxi with a very personable driver to take us a short distance to our bed and breakfast - $20 US. Even at after 3:00 am our gracious host ‘German’ met us at the gate. First impressions … beautiful! Very large room where we could only sleep for 4 hours before getting up for breakfast. A delicious typical Costa Rican 'tipico' with gallo pinto awaited.
Afterwards we took an $8 US Uber ride to pick up our car near the airport, a surprisingly long distance but short as the crow flies. Slow process and very busy at the car rental. But finally we were on the rode just after 12:00 nooon.
We anticipatied about a 3 hour drive. All was good until the signage wasn’t. We climbed the mountains on pretty good paved and dirt roads all the while watching for highlights and signs, lol. From a distance I saw three macaws flying high in the sky, heard some toucans squawking. Along the way there were several towering stands of golden bamboo, lots of jungle and finally stands of pine as the air got cooler. In the valley the temperature got to be 36 C but up here about 30 Celsius. We passed a small town with a bullring. The posted signage to Macaw Lodge was not at all where it should have logically been, so we missed it! Unknowingly we climbed the mountain higher. The cicadas were singing loudly. But yet something didn’t feel right … and then we saw the sign. Our lodge was downhill 12 kms, back to the bullring town and then far along another dirt road.
All I can say is eventually we arrived to paradise. An oasis of beauty with ponds and more ponds. We had booked a cabin away from the lodge about an 8 minute partially uphill walk which wasn’t ideal for Norm’s knees but we decided to not move to the main lodge for more of an outdoor experience. We arrived to a family of adorable bats hanging out under the eaves of our cottage. Could it not get more perfect than that!
Dinner at the lodge was delicious … sea bass for Norm … the first time he actually enjoyed eating sea bass! A plate of delicious veggies, potato mash and eggplant Parmesan for me followed the appetizer of a creamy vegetable soup. A small slice of creme caramel flan topped off the delicious meal. Back up to the ‘bat chalet’ for the earliest bedtime yet … 8:00 pm.
February 07, 2026 - Carara (Macaw Lodge)
It is now Sunday Feb 8 and we are waking up to the sounds of the ‘bird tour’ across the pond. And the sound of the bats returning from their early morning flypast. Time to get up anyways. I open the door to the golden morning sun flood-lighting the pond below. I sit in my Costa Rican rocking chair just as a Drunken Jungle Chicken (Grey-cowled Wood-Rail) sounds its distinctive ‘gobble’. So many bird sounds pop up on my bird app from toucans to Trojans, from parakeets to Montezuma Oropendola.
Soon it will be time for a Costa Rican breakfast with the hummingbirds! How cool is that!
🦜🦜🦜🦜🦜🦜🦜🦜🦜🦜🦜
Back to Feb 7 Saturday early morning
It was one of the longest sleeps of all time only interrupted by the rustle of dried leaves by some unknown animal in the middle of the night. And the sound of many frogs replaced the singing cicadas. By the time we woke up the little house bats were tucked away, tired after a night out in the jungle. It was cool enough at night for Norm to want a blanket by early morning. That almost never happens.
We headed down the hill to the lodge for our:8:30 am breakfast. Chocolate crepes, choice of eggs, toast and jam was this morning’s breakfast selection. Breakfast with the hummingbirds sipping sweet nectar from the surrounding flowers. We watched the different little birds dip and glide over the large pond that the lodge overlooks. A bird of prey over watched all the activity. We were in no hurry to leave and Rachel our young server shared a little info about her life, her travels and the lodge. She returns home from San Jose every weekend to spell off the staff from duties. During the week she is an engineering student herself. So friendly and sweet!
We chatted with different couples as they came or went for the day. Took lots of photos and just relaxed in the traditional Costa Rican rockers drinking coffee and eating local chocolate. So delicious! Lunch is available but likely too much food for us.
It is like staying in the midst of a vast tropical botanical garden here. This land was once cleared as ‘cattle country’ but has been reforested about 25 years ago or so. There are so many ponds here … maybe a pond for every day of the month. It is heaven for reptiles, birds and insects. There are waterfalls to walk to. But alas there is no swimming pool to cool off into.
Not having lunch we were pretty hungry for dinner. We started with an apple carrot soup, then for me a stewed lentil dish and for Norm a chicken lentil combination. A medley of yellow squash, zucchini and cucumber just gently cooked and yellow rice were the accompaniment. Corn bread with blackberry jam ended the delicious meal. So very healthy!
A few more people had checked in so it was busier than usual. One of the new guests here booked last minute as there was a landslide closing a road more on the Caribbean side due to all the recent rain on that side of the mountain range.
Before long we headed back up the path to our cottage. Along the way very close to the handrail was quite the spider just resting. I’m calling her Susie. I hadn’t seen her but luckily Norm called out the warning. Susie didn’t care she didn’t even flinch.
February 08, 2026 - Carara (Macaw Lodge)
Happy Birthday to Me! I started the day off late as usual … it's so chilly in the early morning it’s hard to get out of bed! The toucans were really belting out their tunes and even the Montezuma Oropendula dropped by to say hello. Finally a birthday flypast from a pair of squawking Macaws really made my morning. As well there were my eight bat roomies, who were looking extra adorable flapping their wings in response to my morning greetings.
70 years old today I can’t hardly believe it … and just as batty, that I can believe, loll!
🦇🦇🦇🦇🦇🦇🦇🦇
Sunday Feb 8, we started the day off perfectly with a Costa Rican Gallo Pinto breakfast with Mango Passionfruit juice! Many of the other guests had been on a 2 hour plus bird tour. But not us. That is for the super keeners.
Today’s birds that we saw or heard were many. Most importantly we heard but did not see macaws. But there presence was confirmed by the avid birdwatchers. My all time favourite is the Drunken Jungle Chicken which we heard multiple times. It always makes me smile. They say there have been more than 350 species recorded here as Macaw Lodge is located between two different types of forests: humid tropical forest and very humid forest. There are many big long cameras awaiting photos … much bigger than Norm’s lenses. Just the place for camera envy!
Mid afternoon was another chocolate break. This time chocolate and ginger … a combo I really liked, adding a little heat and spice to the taste. Macaw Lodge has its own cacao plantations. The chocolate here is so delicious!
There was lots of hammock time built into the day as the warmth of the afternoon sizzled on. More and more people are checking in today. Dinner is the busiest yet. All but one table is taken .
We started dinner with blackberry juice. Almost all the ingredients are sourced here and are organic by nature. The food is very healthy and very good. Dinner was quinoa, mixed veggies and sweet potato mash. Everything so fresh and delicious!
After dinner a few of us joined Michael our guide for a night tour. A small group of 4 is so perfect! No snakes or spiders were seen but lots and lots of frogs. Some impossibly tiny, some you could see through to their internal organs, some so large they could be almost garden ornaments. There are about 25 different species of frogs and toads on the property. And with so much wetland and ponds there is so much great habitat for them! The tour at times was somewhat uncomfortable for Norm but he managed like a trouper! It was such a wonderful experience to share!
February 09, 2026 - Carara (Macaw Lodge)
It’s Tuesday morning 10 February … the birthday now but a memory. But is it really over or maybe it’s the birthday that just gives and gives??? This morning’s nature treat was an early one … probably about 4:30 am when the Great Kiskadee blasted out its distinctive tune from a nearby tree. Another gift! I love this cabin, it’s little bats and Macaw Lodge itself so much but today it will be time to move on.
Yes it is the birthday that keeps on giving. In the surrounding trees by our cabina are about 6 Yellow-billed Toucans. One so very close … but sometimes you are just meant to ‘enjoy with your eyes’. No photo.
🎈🎈🎈🎂🎂🎂
February 9. My birthday breakfast finished with a crepe stuffed with melted chocolate from the Macaw chocolate plantation. So delicious! By now there are quite a few people hanging around the lodge, ginormous cameras in hand, waiting for the right photo. The hummingbirds are of course a hit but as are the various other birds that come and go. The butterflies so pretty. The pond is a big attraction for wildlife. We park ourselves at one of the tables facing the pond, work on our blogs, chat to others, or have a little quiet time on the Costa Rican rocking chairs. I walk over to the hammock area but unfortunately there are other people there so I head back to our cabina while Norm stays at the lodge. It’s so quiet and peaceful higher up in the forest canopy.
Later in the day we walk to the waterfall. The trail is well maintained but still a bit of a challenge for Norm. The first area accessible to the water is called the ‘natural spa’. The water surprisingly quite a lovely temperature but the rocks so very slippery. Although I went in fully Norm just dipped his toes in as we deemed he could easily slip and fall hard. Afterwards he returned home, just 10 minutes away while I proceeded to the larger waterfall about 10 to 15 minutes further. I was so glad Norm was not there as there were possibly 100 steps down for the best view. No one else was there. So peaceful but for the sound of the rushing water. Alone, but not alone with nature.
I head back to our cabina, climbing back up the trail staircase and once again back along the trail. I can still hear the rushing water and the birds singing. I’m ‘lost’ in this world until suddenly I spot two black cat-like creatures slinking across the trail … only very much bigger. They give me a stare then vanish into the undergrowth. But in that moment I was a bit scared … I stayed stationary and hoped they weren’t curious. I inched ahead then out of the fallen tree came the last one. This time I got a really good look. The animal looked at me as well, our eyes locked … there was no hiding … both of us likely a bit scared of each other. I savoured the moment. What did I see? In my mind I saw a possible black panther … although I knew this was so highly unlikely. When I returned I asked Michael, the resident expert. He said I saw a Tayra! An animal we have never heard of. I will always remember the Tayra’s beautiful tail … so long and powerful looking … a beautiful animal! What a gift!
Dinner was wonderful as usual, everything so delicious! The stuffed pepper with cheese was outstanding as was the green banana mash and the beet vegetable medley. Much to my surprise a small chocolate birthday cake was awaiting. All the staff came out to sing Happy Birthday to me. Very special indeed!
February 10, 2026 - Carara (Macaw Lodge)
The Toucans were the first to announce the morning, at least that I heard. It’s Wednesday morning, February 11. The Scarlet Macaws just did a fly past … never silent, always having a lot to say. Our hotel for the night, Villas Rio Mar has lovely grounds with two swimming pools. Much to like about it except for the annoying buzz of the outside air conditioner unit … even turned off still had a lot of ‘backtalk’. Norm has just brought me a cup of steaming Costa Rican coffee … to enjoy on our terrace, entertainment provided by the nearby squawking macaws.
We received a very heartfelt note from Michaelyn and Sidney … so much has happened in their lives and although they wanted to be back now, it was not possible. They have a mother and daughter duo to look after their place in the meantime. They suggested we have a video call to catch up. We will certainly miss them.
I took a short before breakfast walk on the property of Villas Rio Mar … and quickly saw a coati, a huge vulture and a visible toucan high up in a tree.
🙊🙉🙈🙊🙉🙈
One last breakfast at Macaw Lodge, was on the late side … 8:30 am as is usual. Many of the other guests now at breakfast will have already been on a two and a half hour bird tour. It seems birding can be very addictive. While we do partake in their excitement somewhat we are less enthusiastic about a long 2 1/2 hour early morning (departing at 6:00 am) tour.
We felt so welcome here even though we are not avid birders. So grateful to have spent 4 nights … all those who have stayed less always wished for more. And so grateful for Norm’s comfort sacrifice in getting this cottage … a place to retreat to when it got ‘busy’ at the lodge. I loved our wooden cabina with its elevated ceiling and being immersed in the coolness of the forest but with a deck facing the sunlit pond. But now it is time to go.
Although Google Maps wanted us to take a route through the mountains, Michael strongly suggested otherwise. So back to Tarcoles direction and down the coast, longer but the roads better. We passed a few Macaws along the way, high in the sky … were they headed for Dominical too??? Traffic was very busy around Quepos and Jaco but smooth the rest of the way. We arrived at our new hotel around 3:30 pm, a couple of ginger welcome drinks awaited.
We walk to our room nearby. Very nice! Quickly we leave for Happy Hour at the pool. A delicious Guaro Sour. Guaro is a liquor made in many places in Latin America. A clear liquid distilled from sugar cane juices, it has a slightly sweeter taste than comparable liquors. Norm took a quick dip in the very large pool. Such a great pool temperature!
Soon we were off to the Crocodile Grill, the large restaurant on the Villas Rio Mar premises. We started with a guacamole appetizer with homemade tortilla chips and pico de gallo. I had a caprese salad and Norm red snapper. We struck up a conversation with a lovely couple from Chicago and with whom we shared a few travel stories and life experiences … and along the way a few laughs too.
Soon it was time for bed. Pura vida!
February 11, 2026 - Carara (Macaw Lodge) to Dominical (Villas Rio Mar)
Morning starts very early in Costa Rica. From a far distance the Howlers were almost non stop. Something was agitating them.
Thick dark clouds cloak the sky with the occasional blue patch. But the little song birds sing of a bright sunny day ahead. My favourite this morning being the Cocoa Wood Creeper.
It’s now 6:33 am and feels like mid morning to me. I am not alone - the fun English family is up too. Big jet lag for them. Turns out they had a snake in their cabin! Yikes!!! They are now headed off surfing just as two huge blue Morpho butterflies glide past.
🦋🦋🦋🦋🦋🦋
Norm surprised me this morning with a cup of coffee … another much appreciated ‘gift’. These thoughtful ‘gifts’ don’t cost anything but are so appreciated! The macaws chatter on and on until I’m just about to go look for them. Now all is silent. They have moved on. I go for my short walk anyways. I’m surprised how big the Villas Rio Mar property is. I spot a coati at the edge of the property and a huge vulture perched on a stump like a lawn ornament. There is a 800 m trail that looks inviting but I’m in flip flops and I remind myself it’s not safe. Just as I’m headed back I see a toucan fly into a tall tree! What a morning!
We both have delicious Huevos Ranchero for breakfast topped with half a huge avocado … I’m in heaven. We chat with a German couple at the table next to us. Neither of us in any kind of hurry. So many Europeans visiting Costa Rica for the first time!
We enjoy our swim in the huge warm pool and conversation with Kathy from Chicago we had previously met at the Crocodile Grill last night. We hang about until 2:30 pm before heading just 10 minutes down the road to Pacific Edge. No hurry, no rush even if no one is there we know the code to get in the gate. We know our room, we could just check ourselves in. But Lori-Anne is there to greet us. The English family arrives too with their three kids just about the same time.
Oh that view … it never gets old! I wait for sunset. The orange sky lit with colour as the sun set. Not the best one Lori-Anne says but still looks pretty good to me.
We head out to Moromo Forneria in nearby Dominical for dinner. I was a little worried about a nearby parking place as Dominical can be very busy. But on this particular night Dominical was quiet and we got a prime spot right in front of the restaurant. I splurged on a Margarita $18 Cdn and it was delicious! We decided to share a Pizza Buffalina … tomato sauce, cherry tomatoes, and a very large fresh buffalina cheese covered in a cashew pesto in the centre. The pizza was 18 inches and most impressive when it came to the table! But it was $65 Canadian!!! We ate it all but two slices to bring home.
Just as we are finishing another couple comes over to our table, noticing the Canadian flag on Norm’s camera bag. Another couple from Nova Scotia!!! Here for three months!
We head home. There are not as many flying insects this year as in the past . So sitting outside is quite enjoyable this time. It seems a little cooler than other years as well.
And another blissful day of the Costa Rican travel experience passes … slowly, slowly.
The enormous pizza and my hand for comparison to show how big it was!
February 12, 2026 - Dominical (Villas Rio Mar) to Dominicalito (Pacific Edge)
The Howlers had less to say this morning but it’s still early. They were really active all day yesterday so maybe their voices are tired. The Crested Guan was the early riser today … a large black bird, almost vulture sized, black crest on its head with a distinctive cry. The Toucans are happily calling somewhere in the trees below. It poured rain last night which is always a gift to wildlife in the tropics. It feels steamy and it’s just after 6:00 am.
☀️☀️☀️🌴🌴🌴
Yesterday 12 February, the pounding surf looked strong from up here with a bird’s eye view of the coastline at Pacific Edge. The English surfing family headed out early. Another couple from Massachusetts went whale watching. The couple beside us in Cabin #1 are prospecting the property as possible co-owners. That leaves just us for breakfast. Isobel, Lori-Anne’s daughter, made us a thick piece of French Toast smothered in fresh pineapple with real maple syrup! Scrambled eggs on the side and more fresh fruit too. Delicious!
We head back to our cabina and spend the rest of the morning listening to jungle sounds while we worked on our blogs and just chilled. The Cocoa Wood Creeper was today’s bird of the day. Every day is different with new bird songs to try and memorize.
Eventually I decide to sneak in a swim before the lovely energetic surfer family returns. So enjoyable! Cooler than the Rio Mar pool but very nice temperature too. Norm joined me a little later just before the family returned from surfing. We had an interesting chat about the surfer culture in Cornwall England and the popularity of the sport world wide. Last year they were in Sri Lanka and the Philippines catching waves!
The afternoon just flew by with hammock time and watching the Yellow throated Toucans flitting from tree to tree. Sunset is early here, about 5:45 pm so we headed up to the viewing platform and eventually the mirador. So beautiful! We admired the Crested Guans flying into a nearby tree with few leaves. And two small toucans in another but by this time the light was dim.
After chatting with the other guests for a bit it was time to head to Ricars 2 restaurant, the one we visited last year with the large antique jet airplane onsite. It is on the road to San Isidoro about a 10 minute drive away. When I saw onion rings on the menu I had to have them. And a salad too. And what a beautiful salad, so delicious with lettuce, avocado, fruit slices, cherry tomatoes and cheese. One of the best salads ever! Norm had the special of the day … surf and turf ... octopus and medallions of beef with pasta. A reminder to always check the price of specials here in Costa Rica. It was more expensive than anticipated. The octopus, not the best, but the rest of the meal good. The margarita was delicious and so pretty decorated with fresh flowers.
As we finished our meal I said to Norm, “That lady over there could be Lettika twin (from Le Jardin de los Monos). She even walks like Lettika! Even her husband looks like Gijs!” And as she approached our table we both had recognition! They stopped while heading back from their new property in San Isidro to Matapalo. Small world! So nice to see them! Lots of hugs!
We returned home to Pacific Edge and sat outside for a bit until a large flying insect sent me inside for cover, lol. It is not pleasant for them nor for me if they get stuck in my long hair!
February 13, 2026 - Dominicalito (Pacific Edge)
The Howlers are really putting on a spectacular performance this morning! Their hollow cries echoing through the surrounding mountains. The Toucans are not to be out done … their squeaky gate voices rejoicing the new morning. The bird of the day is the Great Created Flycatcher with its distinctive 'queeEEEP' sound. Not visible but certainly audible.
Then all excitement breaks out! Nahla, the little blond surfer girl from England is running up the stairs … ”a snake”, she gasps…”my brother Noa just stepped on a snake!” It didn’t bite but constricted around his ankle. Lori-Anne messaged Sidney back in Florida with a photo. It was determined to probably be a rare type of snake to be found here, a harmless Pygmy Boa Constrictor. The family has quite the story to tell when they return home!
🐍🐍🐍🐍🐍🐍❤️
Yesterday we enjoyed our delicious breakfast tacos with the Massachusetts couple, Jessica and Brett.
Then it was time to hit the hammock and later enjoy a quiet swim before the little surfers returned. We had a long chat with Jeff, another fellow Canadian who owns a B&B in San Jose area who is considering a forever home further south. He thought he would never handle the hot temperatures here but he is reconsidering now.
So relaxing just spending the day counting Blue Morpho butterflies! Nine today that I saw, of course it just could be the same one over and over again!
The day passed as it should … slowly, slowly … mostly in a hammock. Once again no monkeys. Dinner would be early, with a sunset table side view at Gusto, an Italian restaurant near Uvita. This will be our third time there over the years! We wonder if the road will still be as full of potholes as usual … it was. We order a glass of Prosecco to start, followed by a bottle of wine. I love the gnocchi here with Gorgonzola sauce with pears and walnuts. Norm had a pasta with Beef bolognaise sauce. Unfortunately there was no room left for tiramisu!
We finished our meal, and suddenly got a tap on the shoulder to ask if there was anything else we wanted. I spun around and to my surprise was Kathy (and Jeff), the Chicago ‘couple not a couple’ we met in Villas Rio Mar! So much fun!
We returned home and sat outside for awhile under the stars before I was accosted by the kamakaze cicada …crash, boom, bang as it flew into my face sending me inside shrieking from shock as quietly as I could! Sometimes you just have to laugh at yourself!
Breakfast fruit. Breakfast tacos.
February 14, 2026 - Dominicalito (Pacific Edge)
It’s total darkness and the Howlers are in a shouting match. We can hear the croaks and howler groans from much closer this morning. One is so very close!
A new family from Germany with jet lag has moved in Cottage Number 3, more young children that can’t sleep, lol.
It poured rain overnight at times. Everything exposed to the elements is wet but will dry quickly as the heat rises.
Just before 8:00 am the cicadas are now singing in full force. It seemed much quieter yesterday.
The bird of the day is a Gray-headed Chachalaca. I cannot see it but I sure can hear it.
🙊🙊🙊🙊🙊🙉
Breakfast was a very filling plate of Gallo Pinto and an enormous plate of fruit. We talk with Lori-Anne about the rising price of groceries. The Massachusetts couple will not be joining us for breakfast, as Jessica is not well. The British family is up and about, but will not be surfing until later in the day. Understandably, at least from looking down on the beach from Pacific Edge the waves look flat. We practice our best sloth moves all morning not doing too much, until it’s quiet time at the pool mid day and time for a swim to cool off.
Since it’s Valentine’s Day we have decided to enjoy a very early supper. First a stop to the ‘neighbourhood’ bakery just to check it out as it’s pretty busy, the place to take your honey on Valentine’s Day. The breads look fantastic as do the desserts. But none for us.
We drive up the same road as the other night’s restaurant Ricar 2 only about half an hour up the mountain further to the Soda we enjoyed last year. The air is definitely cooler and the low hanging clouds are threatening to engulf the mountainside. As promised last year there is now a new terrace. It’s a family run business …Mom cooks, Dad, and likely a grandson, wait on the tables. But we are the only ones here. Dad places bananas in the bird feeder and we watch the multitude of colourful beautiful birds which come to visit! Fantastic!
I have a guacamole and bean dip with cheese accompanied by a mass of homemade style crispy tortilla chips. Norm has a beef Cascado plate. We leave absolutely stuffed just as the sun is setting. Luckily there is no traffic and we make it down the mountain in record speed as compared to the stop/start traffic last year. We roll into Pacific Edge in darkness and hope the Kamikaze Cicadas are not yet arising. But sitting outside was not going to happen for me as I watched Norm get dive-bombed. Not long after it started to rain and Norm tells me he had even more guest Kamikaze fliers. Awww, they were just coming to wish him a Happy Valentine’s Day!
Hydrangea indicates a cooler climate.
February 15, 2026 - Dominicalito (Pacific Edge)
It was exceptionally quiet this morning. Much rain had fallen overnight … everyone was sleeping in. That is until the Pacific Edge Howler started to vocalize with its hoarse gutteral sounds. He was very close by for sure. But in the shadows of darkness no one could be seen.
The bird of the day is the Black-hooded Antshrike. A really distinctive cool sounding bird. And just like clockwork, the Cicadas crank up the jungle sounds at 7:52 am.
We must leave today but we are in no rush, after all we sloths move slowly. The German family are leaving today, the British family already on an excursion to Rainmaker so that leaves Pacific Edge just to us! However after five nights we will move along on too … slowly, slowly. Vayu Retreat Villas awaits. Five nights has been the perfect amount of time here!
🦥🐾🐾🐾🐾🐾
It was a busy morning up at the lodge with more people than usual eating breakfast and just hanging around. Isabel always gives a choice at breakfast … for me I chose a breakfast sandwich. We are always so stuffed after breakfast, no need for anything else until dinner.
We know we should have at least gone to the beach once … but … once in the hammock it’s so hard to leave. The sound of the jungle engulfs you and holds on tightly. We can see a number of hang gliders everyday enjoying the scenery from above. It looks pretty dreamy up there with a bird’s eye view.
We say goodbye to the Massachusetts couple, Jessica and Brent; and hello to the German family with their two little kids. A little different atmosphere this time around but we are adjusting. The British family is an absolute delight and has been so much fun, even adding to our experience.
We decided to watch sunset here as this is our last night. But just before there is a commotion in the palm trees by our room. First the colourful Fiery-billed Aracari shows up, followed soon after by a raucous pair of Yellow-throated Toucans entertaining us with their antics. And just then something thumped on our roof and jumped into a nearby tall tree. A Mom carrying a Baby Capuchin! It was so hard to know where to look with so much going on!
We could see dark ominous clouds slowly consuming the mountainside. And then ithe skies opened, it poured rain! Yet in the other direction the sun was setting in glorious colours oblivious to the darkening sky behind. We climbed the now wet circular steps to the Mirador for the best view. And what a view it is, while keeping dry underneath its tin roof. It was not a gentle rain.
We waited for a break in the weather but settled for leaving for dinner in a ‘lesser’ rain period. To our surprise although it had rained in Dominicalito, our community, it appeared to have not a few kilometers down the road in Dominical!
We chose the open aired restaurant with picnic type tables … Phat Noodle, an Asian style restaurant. I devoured the contents of the Peanut Satay Bowl. So delicious! While Norm loved his pork rib bites, he was less enthusiastic about his lettuce wrap plate. We headed home, to our rainforest still in the pouring rain. But so happy not to be wet and hungry!
February 16, 2026 - Dominicalito (Pacific Edge) to Coronado (Vayu Villas)
"Vayu Vibrations"
I gingerly climb the stairs to our private upstairs terrace dodging the buzzing cicadas, hanging out in the stairwell. It’s just before 6:00 am, still mostly dark outside, but the little birds in the surrounding trees are just belting out their tunes. The terrace is so very comfy. Smaller than I had expected perhaps but is great except for the floor differential which one must watch out for to avoid a tumble. We spoke to Rafael about it and he thinks he has a solution.
The bird of the morning is the Great Kissadee. On the bigger size, this is a bright coloured yellow bird with black and white stripes on its head. Always has a lot to say.
Soon we will go for breakfast. A delicious omelette stuffed with cheese and tomato awaits! Norm chooses the new stainless steel method of drip coffee a version of traditional method in Costa Rica. He wasn’t particularly impressed as he found the coffee weak. I would agree. My latte was wonderful!
🦜🦜🦜🦜🦜🦜
Everyone has left Pacific Edge now for good except for the British family who are off to Rainmaker for an excursion besides surfing. Luckily there is no hurry for the room today so we are at our leisure to whatever time we check out. Isabelle has made us Gallo Pinto for breakfast. We watch the Blue Morpho butterflies enjoying the sweet nectar but never staying in one spot for long. I rather regret not even trying to photograph one. It was so quiet and peaceful by the pool we were in no hurry to leave. Lori Ann and Isabelle have done a great job caretaking the property until a new arrangement is found, in whatever form that will be. They really hope Mikka and Sid do not sell completely but form a partnership with someone. But by 2:00 pm it was time to hit the road.
Only a 40 minute familiar ride away and we arrive in Tres Rios de Coronado, about 10 minutes south of Ojochal. The entrance to Vayu Retreat is a little rough around the edges but the relatively small property is lovely landscaped once inside. Rafael, the congenial host greets us with his unbridled enthusiasm. He shows us to our room which is gorgeous. The high tech lights are fun and will take a bit to get used too. The red lit bathroom at night is over the top, lol.
Norm is uncertain about staying for dinner but I talk him into it. Seemed like the perfect time not to go out. The parking area is narrow and requires great care if someone is parked in the handicap spot which they were when we arrived.
We are the first of three tables to arrive for dinner. The chef has adapted the menu to provide me with a vegetarian version. We start with an appetizer of tuna, avocado and pear. Only instead of tuna the chef baked cubes of watermelon soaked in soy sauce to make a ‘fake’ tuna appearance and taste. Rafael wanted me to guess what it was, but I certainly never thought it was watermelon! That was fun! The main course was creamy mushroom fettuccine for me and shrimp fettuccine for Norm. The sauce was a non dairy vegan version for better digestion. I would agree! All was tasty! For dessert there was coconut flan with caramel. A perfect portion dessert … not too big! Although we ordered a bottle of wine to have with dinner I also ordered a fresh strawberry Mojito, and wow was it good! First guests to arrive for dinner and the last guests to leave.
We think we will try to not use the air conditioning so as to hear all the frogs and toads but we were scrambling in the middle of the night for a new plan as it got a little uncomfortably hot for Norm. I like to be hot, I was fine. If I ever complain about being too hot while sleeping, it must be really bad! The air conditioner is one of the loudest ever but certainly effective. But by early morning we both longed for the bird sounds. We will try a new plan going forward.
February 17, 2026 - Coronado (Vayu Villas)
"A Pura Vida Kind of Day"
No Howler monkey sounds to wake me up only the sound of the Crested Guan so early. Just as dawn is breaking I climb the cicada graveyard stairs … there are 10 awaiting. I hope they had a good life. The Acacia tree outside our unit fills with birds in the morning. It is a lot of fun seeing the little ones come and go.
The bird of the day is the Montezuma Oropendola, with its hollow gobble sound. A fairly large bird with a bright yellow tail that makes the most unusual hanging nests. I have seen their nests before but not yet on this trip. Their cry is unmistakable!
🐒🐒🐒🐸🐸🐸
I’m so glad we spent the big bucks to get the private terrace here, which as expected is where we spend most of our day. Eventually I make my way down to the pool usually around noon or so as the heat intensifies. The pool is delightfully warm. There I chat with a young Israeli couple who have spent three weeks touring much of Costa Rica. Such a long way for them to come.
Rafael suggests a nearby place to go for dinner, a local place. We pull in the driveway at 4:45 pm when I say, “Maybe we should go for a drive first as it’s awfully early for dinner”. So we drive aimlessly down the highway when we spot an attractive mural. On a whim, thinking we might find a beach, we drive down a back road past the local houses and ranch land. But the road took many twists and turns with other side roads. Soon I was lost. But just then Norm spots a Scarlet Macaw … so we stop, and get out of the car.
All we could find were large green parrots squabbling. I say to Norm, “Listen, I think I hear a monkey”. A few minutes later we are still looking for those Macaws, while admiring the large parrots, when from a distance we can see Capuchins with their aerial aerobics jumping from tree to tree. We follow the tree line from the road happily watching their antics when a pair of Macaws fly by, and then another pair. They all fly into a nearby tree.
By now we are not alone … different people have either driven by on motorcycles or on foot … all with a smile and also as happy as we were to see nature’s display. That spirit is another reason why I love Costa Ricans. It seems most Costa Ricans love the nature that their land provides. They stop and watch when they can and take photos with their phones. Seeing monkeys somehow never gets old!
Just as we are getting into the car, a fellow comes out of his house to greet us. Pura vida he says with great delight. Then he asks Norm to wait a moment, and returns with a guitar. So not only did we get a Green Parrot show, but a Scarlet Macaw performance and a Capuchin aerial display but an evening guitar serenade. I am getting anxious as darkness is falling and I haven’t a clue how to get back to the main road. But luckily I have Norm, my life navigator. Without one wrong turn he gets us back … not an easy feat.
We drive back to our local restaurant choice, Costanera House 186, a local spot just off the highway. Unfortunately there is absolutely nothing on the menu for me. But when I explain, I am given three choices. I chose a quesadilla option expecting the food to be very plain. But when it came out it was a full plate and the quesadilla was stuffed with veggies and cheese, with a side of guacamole and French fries. Norm said his Ceviche was top notch, the best as he can remember. And the tropical chicken curry very delicious as well. And he had to take half it home ... that almost never happens!
A few kilometres back down the road and we’re home. What a day! A Pura Vida kind of day!
February 18, 2026 - Coronado (Vayu Villas)
"It's a Late Night Frogs' Party and We're Not Invited"
A slow start to the day. The Crested Guan is the first bird sound of the morning but I just couldn’t get up. Nope, flat out! Without fans it is too hot to sleep without AC if there is a choice, and this particular unit is on the loud side. We tried … and the frogs/toads were active at 1:00 am … but it was just too hot. So on went the AC. I don’t think I was up much before 7:00 am and even that was a struggle. By that time Norm opened the windows and turned off the ‘cool breathing beast’ the song birds’ melodies now filled the room.
Up the ‘graveyard stairs’, counting the cicadas on their backs, legs in the air, and dodging the large opportunistic grasshoppers I reach our terrace paradise. Turns out some of them are just sleeping. Surprise!
Breakfast was a ‘typico’ one, served attractively on a banana leaf. We chatted with a young couple surprisingly from Costa Rica. Their eco lodge, The Jaguar Jungle Lodge in remote Drake Bay area sounds enticing.
The bird of the day is Black-cowled Oriole. Such a pretty little bird! Apparently sometimes captured for pets in Costa Rica because of their striking colours. We did not hear them sing.
🐸🐸🐸🐸🐸🐸
I am so very glad we booked one of the terrace units … a wonderful indulgence! We each have a large lounging bed with fluffy pillows in the shade of a thatched roof. There is also the large rope hammock which I use occasionally too. Two cushioned sun loungers are in the sun most of the day and go unused except for drying swimsuits. There is even a shower to cool off in. And a cooling ceiling fan! But best of all it provides great entertainment for nature lovers and photographers.
We head down to the pool a little later than usual, and enjoy a dip along with a Great Kiskadee who joins us. There we meet Marc, the other owner. We chat about the not so pretty front ‘gate’ and the construction of a new space, on pause for the busy season. Marc is super friendly as is charming Rafael. We ask him to make a 6:30 pm dinner reservation at Heliconia as we remember it being busy in the past.
About 4:30 pm we left for sunset and a quick stop in at Exotica to confirm our Thursday night reservation. Just as we were about to turn in, an impatient car behind us passed on the turning side! So dangerous! Not the first incidence of questionable driving!
We headed to Playa Ventana, a few kilometres away. It was surprisingly busy, many people coming for sunset. We watched children and dogs playing and a few people enjoying the waves. The water is so incredibly warm. Sunset was not one of the better ones, but who doesn’t enjoy a sunset anyways.
Heliconia is a popular restaurant just off the highway but yet with a ‘being in the jungle’ kind of feel. I started with a Margarita on the strong side that once Norm tried it he wanted one too. For my meal I started with a small plate of tortilla chips with guacamole and a small amount of refried beans. My main course was a strawberry goat cheese salad. Norm had coconut shrimp to start and a pork shrimp ‘tower’ for his main course. Everything fresh and delicious!
We return home about a 15 minute drive away. It’s like almost 9:00 pm well past my bedtime. No toads or frogs to be seen … they start to party much later. And party they do!
February 19, 2026 - Coronado (Vayu Villas)
"The Beyond Generous Gift"
After the buckets of rain that fell yesterday, everything looks extra green and fresh.
The little birds can’t stop singing their happy tunes.
The new strategy for getting a peaceful sleep without AC of putting it on before we go to dinner to then come back to a cool room sounded promising. Then opening the windows and turning off the AC to hear the frogs and the birds. But by midnight it was pretty darn hot. Good training for our new place with no AC available at all. Yet some having no AC seems preferable ... no options just acceptance. But it definitely will be hotter as we are headed south today, roughly 3 hours away, to almost the Panamanian border.
The frogs and toads were on the quiet side last night but we could see how the rain had brought them out to the road likely hunting insects as we were driving to dinner last night.
The bird of the day is the Pale Vented Pigeon. A quiet beautiful pinkish blue coloured bird that likes to sit in our tree in the company of the Great Kiskadees. The Kiskadees are very busy here at Vayu, building nests and just being the ‘boss bird’.
🐌🐌🐌🐌🐌🐌
We sure are truly enjoying the property here at Vayu. We sit on our comfy chair beds and just admire the birds and listen to the loud buzz of the cicadas for most of the day. Mid day it’s time for a swim in the luxuriously warm pool. Some of us still bird watching. We can see a small nest in the nearby palm. Sometimes even a Kiskadee needs a little drink from the pool. We share the space. Today will be a two swim day … we stay in the pool for an extended time … we truly feel relaxed.
For dinner we will be headed to Exotica in the nearby town of Ojochal. We look forward to each year when we can return to another one of our special places. Over time we have gotten to know Maite one of the family members who runs/owns the restaurant. Exotica has an international mix of food Asian, Italian, Costa Rican …an around the world fusion of foods. The drinks are great too. Norm has a mango smoothie and I have 2 margaritas … a strawberry one followed by passionfruit. Passionfruit is my favourite.
Maite apologizes to us ahead of time saying that due to a difficult situation in the kitchen service would be slower than usual. She said “Don’t be alarmed as the police are on their way”. While we didn’t understand the situation completely what we do know is that there was a young woman in trouble who had sought their help and who felt in danger. Sure enough the police came and interviewed her at one of the tables. We all hope she finds a safe place to be for the night. We learn that here there are no ‘shelters’. Maite will call a friend that works in the hospital, perhaps they can help.
The first dish to come out of their kitchen for us is Norm’s cerviche which he thoroughly enjoys. Our main courses follow, Creamy Vodka Pasta for me and a Vietnamese Hot Pot for Norm. We are in heaven! For dessert we order off menu and ask if a Bananas Flambé might be available. “Of course”, Maite says … ”Just for you”. We had a second dessert picked out just in case Bananas Flambé was not possible and she insisted on bringing a small piece of lime pie with coconut crust, just to try. When it came time to pay, she said not only was the lime pie a gift to us but the entire meal was her and her husband's gift to us. Wow! That was very special even if it felt a little uncomfortable accepting such a generous gift. I could feel tears welling up in my eyes. Happy tears, though. The people we meet and the relationships that are formed are another big reason that keeps us coming back to Costa Rica each year.
We drove home, our hearts filled with gratitude!
February 20, 2026 - Coronado (Vayu Villas) to Tiskita Lodge (Pavones)
"Sweet Jungle Dreams are Made of This"
It was just after 5:00 am when the Howlers started. Good morning everyone!! The air is fresh, it rained overnight. The Cocoa Woodcreeper has a lot to say this morning. There are large monkeys scrambling through the trees in front of our place, likely Howlers. All is quiet now except for the sound of the waves crashing and the whistling sound of the Cocoa Woodcreeper calling to its mate. From a distance I can hear a Toucan and snapping of branches. Then suddenly dozens of monkeys were visible!
We both slept very comfortably … no AC. But this lodge has electricity so we are able to use both a floor stand fan as well as the overhead fan. Such luxury! Such comfort!
Our walk to the lodge is a bit difficult for Norm in places. As a result we may move to another cabin closer to the lodge. After lunch we will check it out and decide.
Breakfast was a hearty Gallo Pinto. To our delight Squirrel Monkeys entertained us from the surrounding trees. So much fun!
Obviously the bird of the day is once again the Cocoa Woodcreeper.
🐵🌴🐵🌴🐵🌴
Breakfast yesterday at Vayu was a delicious version of Huevos Ranchero on a thick slice of bread. We both have come to enjoy the zen ambience of Vayu. Other than the ‘sleep at night factor’ it has been absolutely wonderful! Both Rafael and Marc have been fabulous hosts. We talked with Marc about the new expansion …the work on the parking lot now in progress … that will be a huge improvement just in itself. A place where Rafael can perform, yet still keep the peaceful ambience clients love. Not sure exactly how they will accomplish this but no doubt they will.
We head south along the highway. We pass palm oil plantations, banana groves and farms with grazing cattle along the way. Little white egrets always the cows’ besties join them as they munch away. Lots of narrow one lane bridges and rough unpaved road patches. But nothing major. Along the way suddenly a reddish orange monkey jumps from a low tree branch onto the road , and then another … squirrel monkeys! We watched them cavort through the trees until it was time to move along.
We eventually get to the coast where we can see the surf and sometimes surfers. We basically drive to the end of the road and arrive at Tiskita Lodge positioned in the lushness of jungle and fruit trees yet with a partial view of the nearby ocean waves. The sound is beautiful! Surrounding the lodge is colourful vegetation and lots of flowers. We arrive at our shared casita (4 individual rooms) but lucky us we are the only ones staying here tonight. The Cocoa Woodcreeper in a nearby tree is belting out a song. We open the door to the bathroom with an absolutely wow view of bright coloured foliage and dense jungle. The bathroom is open aired and wonderful. I spot an agouti in minutes. Welcome to Tiskita Lodge!
Not long after we head to dinner. Make your own fish tacos and vegetables for Norm and a squeaky cheese, vegetable tacos for me. Fresh watermelon juice. Here we are told to best only to drink the lodge’s filtered water and not out of the tap. Dessert was a chocolate cake with cream cheese icing.
A walk back under the stars ... more like under the clouds and soon after we crawled into bed. Norm was asleep before the first raindrop fell … and not long after that the sky opened and heavy rain fell. Sweet dreams followed!
February 21, 2026 - Tiskita Lodge (Pavones)
"A Squirrelly Kind of Day"
Everyday is different in the jungle. The Howlers are basically no shows at least not nearby this morning. But the sun is shining, the waves are crashing and the birds are definitely singing. I hear a Clay-coloured Thrush singing its ‘Robin’ song. Right now I’m watching a squirrel with its bushy tail dangling while it finds breakfast in a nearby tree and the hummingbirds busy sipping nectar, having their breakfast too. Apparently we have a sloth living in a tree by our Cabin #4. So soon I will attempt to be a sloth detective, maybe I can find it?
No sloths were spotted but since I encountered the bird watching tour that starts at 5:45 am in the morning I was lucky enough to see the beautiful Motmot through the guide’s scope! Gorgeous bird! Later I spotted a Coati walking ahead of me on a path, but no sloths yet.
It was a breakfast buffet today with homemade tortillas, fresh fruit, squeaky cheese, scrambled eggs, rice and beans. And delicious coffee. We arrived a little early to find a pair of Scarlet Macaws in a nearby tree. While we were eating breakfast, they were eating theirs. The only thing that seems to keep them quiet! We talk to various guests while waiting for our ‘included walk’. Mario, our nature guide, takes us to the suspension bridge and frog ponds. Norm was almost ready to turn around but Mario said I have a bench for you! There we sat and watched nature come to us.
The bird of the day is the Motmot.
🦥🦥🦥🦥🦥🦥
Rain, rain go away! It rained hard for most of the day. We sure made use of the umbrellas and our rain jackets. Neither of us ever remember so much rain during this time period.
Jerry, a staff member, very thoughtfully brings us umbrellas right to our cabina. So kind! We will really make use of them today! It is not a gentle rain, more like the torrential rains of rainy season. We gingerly walk down the now slippery path, umbrellas in hand!
Lunch was delicious, a sort of vegetable or chicken pie with a very cheesy mashed potato crust and salad. Always a fresh fruit juice too. Strawberries with a chocolate crust was for dessert.
After lunch we switched rooms to another much larger cabina, completely private, upon staff’s suggestion for it being a better walk/drive for Norm. We would have had the company of another couple in the other 4 room cabina with much less privacy. So a win/win for all of us.
I hang about our new cabina all day not wanting to tear myself away from the Squirrel Monkey show. So many little monkeys everywhere! Moms with the tiniest of babies hanging on for dear life as they jumped from tree to tree. The young adolescents were the size of kittens and like children were extra curious about us.
Norm chose to cool off in the swimming pool near the lodge while I stayed in the hammock. One little Squirrel Monkey came so close to me walking along the railing beside me. Unfortunately my phone was sitting back on a table!
We head for supper in the pouring rain. Supper is delicious but I could only eat half. I was going to refuse dessert but it was passionfruit mousse that young Ivi our adorable server insisted I should try. And I was glad I did! Delish! Ivi is trying to learn English and trying hard she is but just at the very beginner stages. Like us with Spanish. We try to learn together.
We drive back in the pelting rain, careful not to slip on our ramp. I sat outside on our large terrace watching the lightning show from across the bay. But oddly no thunder. We will fall asleep to the sound of crashing waves and cheerful cicadas loving all this wet weather. Ivi calls them Chicharas so much prettier and softer sounding than Cicadas. Chicharas it is!
February 22, 2026 - Tiskita Lodge (Pavones)
"Morticia's Paradise"
From quite a distance the Howlers announced the morning just as the Drunken Jungle Chicken (Grey-cowled Woodrail) loudly announces its presence. “5:00 am and time to get up people.” The waves sound a little angry this morning. Around 6:00 am I go for a walk. The Black Vultures with their enormous wings now spread wide are trying to dry them after all the rain. I see agoutis, with their wiggly bums, scooting around the forest floor looking for breakfast. Even a mom and baby. I walk further, towering trees creating shadowy darkness. Jet black bats the size of birds are zipping by above my head. Such a beautiful morning! Morticia from the Adam’s Family would surely love it here. Oh maybe not … there are too many bright coloured flowers.
It’s 8:46 am and it’s getting hot fast! When will it rain is the question of the day?
The bird of the day will be the beautiful unusual King Vulture with its pure white wingspan with black tips. Yesterday we saw one flying high in the sky with his Black Vulture friends.
🌺🕷️🕷️🦇🦇🌺
Yesterday’s lunch was absolutely delicious … an Asian/tropical quinoa bowl of flavours. Very delicious and very good. After a leisurely lunch we head up to the pool for a swim with the unicorn who actually was taking a break by the side of the pool. The pool is small but still a nice size. The water is refreshingly on the cool side. As I’m about to head back to Cabina #4 I spot a large Coati climbing a tree to have a late lunch on a large hanging jackfruit. Although he knew I was there he kept munching away. The Jack fruit was enormous and dangling precariously from all the weight. I wondered if it would fall but it didn’t.
Now back at the cabina I rest in the hammock unintentionally calling Paul. We chat with Paul and Clara. She tells Poppy she loves him and to be careful! So cute! Paul says she can’t stop looking at his photo. She misses him! I’m so happy for him although I do feel a twinge of jealousy. What about Yiayia Clara? You know the lady who hugs and kisses you and plays nonstop with you whenever she sees you! The one who bakes you yummy cookies and gets in trouble for it! I promise her chocolate chip cookies when I return and she immediately turns into a cookie monster, lol. Paul says, “see what you have done.” We all laugh, maybe Paul less so.
A bit before 3:00 pm it starts to pour again. Our verandah is both spacious and dry so we can enjoy it no matter what. We are expecting the monkeys to come by but only a very few showed up, likely because of the rain. Hammock time stretched all the way to dinner time. So glad I didn’t book a night tour for today. The rain is heavy. We decided to drive to dinner as the path would be slippery.
We see a long table set for a dozen or so at the lodge. A group of yoga practioners is now here. The lodge much more animated than usual, lots of excited voices as they reunite. The quiet is gone for now.
We head back and sit outside for awhile. No need for even a fan here at night. Such a peaceful sleep! Knowing morning will come early with hopefully the hollow sounds of the Howlers streaming through our open screened windows.
Tiskita Lodge where we have all our meals. A swim with a unicorn nearby. |
